00209 Pour-N-Go Head Gasket Sealer - 16 Ounce

Okay, I want to be clear that I did not use the Pour-N-Go product, even though that is what I ordered on Amazon. After reviewing the instructions, I realized this was not the right thing for my car. I spent the last 4 years of my life restoring a 1965 Ford Galaxie XL convertible with 390 engine. This was a frame-off restoration that I did entirely myself, only farming out a few essentials like plating and machine work. I assembled the engine myself and triple checked my work. I wrongly assumed that the block and heads were decked sufficiently to use any head gaskets I wanted. I was wrong. After having the engine fully detailed and back in the car, my first test run was a bit of a disaster. Steam was coming out of the crankcase and I quickly realized I was getting coolant in my oil and vice-versa. No bueno. I pulled the engine and removed the heads. I swapped the thin steel-shim gaskets for thicker Fel-Pro versions that actually advertise their ability to seal imperfect surfaces. All seemed well after cleaning the water and oil passages and re-assembling. I finished the car and have put a few hundred test miles on it over the past few months. It runs great now and pulls well. Now that summer is fully on, I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues that made me really study the cooling system and try to track down my issue. I've had a couple boil overs in this car that just didn't seem right, and strange bubbles in my coolant made me think to check with a combustion leak test kit. I saw the results I feared that I was getting compression/exhaust gases in my coolant and my cooling system was being over-pressurized and overheated by this issue. My heart sank at the thought of fully disassembling this engine....again. It would be a very involved process getting it back from the machine shop and compensating for the changed geometry that decking the block would create. I went to an online forum for the Ford FE engine series for advice and someone suggested trying Bars leak before resigning to a tear down. I figured I had nothing to lose, and I already had pretty big respect for Blue Devil products after using their Transmission Seal products with amazing results in the past. Reading reviews on Amazon further encouraged me, but I had little expectation of success. Firstly, I am rarely lucky, and secondly, It seems like products like this are meant more for keeping coolant out rather than compression. The pressures of a cooling system are nothing like what's inside the cylinder's combustion chambers. So, with this on order, I realized that what I actually needed for my engine was the larger quart bottle of head gasket sealer. I actually picked some up from a local Auto Zone even though it was more expensive. I wanted to get it sooner to take advantage of a day off work. I had already flushed my cooling system and used some Thermocure to descale and remove rust trying to remedy the overheating. This was before I discovered the real issue, but it made for a shortcut for being ready for the Blue Devil product. I used the radiator flush as described as well just to be by-the-book. I removed the thermostat and placed a new gasket on the water neck. I used the whole quart bottle on a cool, not cold, engine. I let it run for 50 min. as directed. I let it cool enough to handle things, replaced the thermostat and gasket then topped off the radiator with anti-freeze (the instructions pointed out that you don't need to do a flush after using the product, implying that the remainder being in there may continue to work to help seal things). After getting things back together, I used the block tester kit again and NO color change. I went and drove the car fairly hard to create some compression pressure, I came back and repeated the test--still passed. Really seems crazy and a little too good to be true, but definitely an impressive outcome. I really hope this is a permanent fix, but I will certainly be suspicious of a future failure. I'll plan to do some retesting periodically to make sure this isn't recurring. Anyway, definitely give these products a try. Completely worth a shot!

This product works ONE HUNDRED PERCENT !!! My 2008 Saab Aero V6 SportCombi Wagon had a 'head lift' - been driving me crazy for months ... chasing a coolant reservoir overflow when under high torque (not at idle). Tons of people advising and diagnosing everything from thermostat, radiator, hoses, water pump, reservoir tank, etc etc ... absolute nightmare - finally watched a YT video on head lift ... Guess what, that's EXACTLY what it was !!! Used 'Pour'n'go version as directed, and drove it for a few hours. Head gasket 'lift' sealed, no leak, no overflow, no blockage. This stuff literally saved me thousands in 'wild goose chase repair', and of course ultimately saved the car. Just WOW. Thank You to whoever created this in a lab lol !!!!!!!!!

2005 Honda Element LX Automatic UPDATE: Prestone flush chemical did NOT react to Blue Devil crystals. It must've been bubbling from the heat gasket leak. I had to remove the radiator and flush it thoroughly to remove even more large crystal chunks. I hate that I used this product and hope that it doesn't end up clogging up my system in the future. In total, I did 1 garden hose flush of the entire system, 3 prestone flushes, a radiator garden hose flush (radiator out), and 4 distilled water flushes. AVOID THIS PRODUCT! Deceptively labeled as a "pour and go" product. If your cooling system has gotten any combustion gases in it or is "dirty" you will need to flush it, otherwise you'll just get a clogged system. I contacted Blue Devil support, where they were less than helpful. They merely put the blame on me, saying they had no idea why it would crystallize like that, or it might've already been like that. Yeah... I don't think so. I followed the instructions very carefully and poured even slower than instructed. I drained some of the existing coolant, enough to make room for the Blue Devil contents, then started the cold engine and poured a very small stream until the bottle was empty. I then let it idle for 50 minutes. 40 minutes into the idling, the air coming out of the heater vents began to get colder and the coolant gauge showed the engine temperature climbing. It appears this is when the clogging began to occur. I had to take all the hoses off and flush very well with a garden hose through everything I could. Still plenty in the system, so I did 2 Prestone chemical flushes of the system. At least the Prestone chemical flush seems to react with those Blue Devil crystal chunks and break them down. I left the flush (with distilled water) in the system for several days, driving it daily (just make sure temps aren't going to go below freezing). I'll flush 3 more times with distilled water to get all the Blue Devil glass powder out of the system, then fill with antifreeze and try K-Seal next, since it doesn't use liquid glass to seal.

02 volvo 238k inline 6 cylinder non turbo. Owned vehicle for 10 plus years. Heater core started leaking, 500 bucks plus for new one so I continued to drive adding water when necessary. Gave up putting anti freeze in it as to expensive and only leaks out. It Got so bad interior was starting to flood, like a lot! It was actually sloshing around. Finally, I bypassed heater core and continued to drive. Then the head gasket blew! Hot Water/coolant was pushing backing up through clear plastic reservoir. Like real bad. It was steaming and boiling over like a volcano. Yep, I continued to drive adding water and using it for very short 3 block trips before it overheated. Went to get head gasket repaired. Got quotes 2500 to 3000! I thought the car was trashed. Wife said take to junk yard. Cut our losses. I saw an ad on amazon and laughingly bought 1 bottle of blur devil pour and go. I followed the directions. Remember I already bypassed the heater core so it wasn;t hooked up. I just ran the 2 hoses together to bypass it. I added it to the top radiator hose and put the hose back on. I ran the car as directed. White smoke pouring out of the tail pipe, puffing, chugging, running on only a few cylinders. I was Completely embarrassed as the neighbors looked on from down the street. It said to run 55 minutes at idle but after about 40 minutes I felt sorry and said this is enough I have to put the car out of its misery and shut it off. I slammed the hood and went inside. Next day about 20 hours later I start the car to move it in the drive. I watched the temp gauge, then I hear a thunk. I watch and it isn't over heating. So I take it for a spin around the block. Its Running good. WTH? Omg did that blue devil stuff work. Cmon no way. DId it really work? What the heck is going on-wht isn't the car overheating? Is the gauge stuck as I hit the dash to check. I am in complete shock! My Jaw is dropping I run into the house. I am speach-less! Honey, Honey, the volvo is back!! Yea right she says No I'm serious! Go for a ride with me-If we break down ill never speak to you again, she says. We went out cruising all over. Car ran perfect. No overheating. No smoke from tail pipe. No chugging, no fumes, etc. I am in STILL IN AWE OF THIS PRODUCT. My issue was very serious and 1 bottle and it worked. I am not getting paid for this and I do not lie. I have no reason to. And I do not wish to deceive my fellow man. All I know is THIS STUFF WORKED IN MY VOLVO, and trust me it was in sad shape. THANK YOU BLUE DEVIL AND TO THE GUY WHO INVENTED IT AND ALL YOUR EMPLOYEES AND AMAZON.

2008 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.0l with 1GR-FE V6 These engines (Tacoma 4Runner tundra) Commonly develop a slight leak from coolant to cylinder 6 (sometimes 4) that is smaller than a leak down test can detect, official diagnosis involves seeing the coolant pooled in cylinder after it’s sat over night or holding napkin over hole while jumping engine to see stain of coolant fouling the plug. My Symptoms were an almost unnoticed coolant leak over time (never overheated) and then the first rough start, 30s of rough idle and code for misfire on cyl 6 along with flashing vsc, traction and CEL light. It would clear up quickly and clearing code and have normal operation. 2nd time was months later, then once a week, then daily, then anytime the engine was off more than 10 minutes, but it would still run great after the cylinder unfouled. Replaced the plugs and coils as a first step no improvement, but didn’t expect it to be fixed since it had classic symptoms of head gasket. I went with the BD because this was a minor leak, it wasn’t blowing white smoke yet, and it only involved coolant/cyl/exhaust and not oil and was told it wouldn’t hurt anything else. Followed directions to a T, but I quickly noticed the drivers side of the dual climate quit blowing hot (passenger unaffected) while sitting inside. Apparently It plugged the head gasket leak though so I call it a win, you don’t understand how much a pain it is to sit there for 5 minutes idling rough and clearing codes when you got somewhere to go. maybe ill replace the heater core one day when it gets cold so minus 1 star. Not sure if there was anything else to be done to fix an old truck with a $4k estimate to fix and a $5k value.

I have had great success with the pour-n-go for several Chevrolet Venture minivans that used the pink dex cool and that entire family of GM V-6 vortec motors. The product actually unblocked a stuck heater core as the Bar-stops sealant had likely blocked it up and did not successfully seal the head gasket. Follow instructions on the bottle. The minivan smoked like George Burns (Cigar smoker) for about the first 10 minutes and then the tail pipe visual smoke gradually disappeared and the heater in the van started to blow hot air and the temp guage then started to drop to the 9:00 to 11:00 normal operating range. Keep the heater fan on for all 50 minutes for slow idle as per instructions on the container. I did not have as much success with a Toyota product. I also had to do 2 bottles on my venture and may be getting ready to do a third bottle but it's worth it compared to tearing down a head in a shop for $1500.00. Also keep in mind running vehicle at high RPM's may compromise the seal so I am gentle and keep my foot out of extreme acceleration conditions so as not to compromise the seal bonding of the chemical agents in the product.

Excellent, I love thisone

Had an antifreeze leak, but couldn't totally figure out where. I thought it was an intake leak (2000 chevy impala 3.4 l (crap car)). I paid to have intake gasket fixed, which was in poor shape. After repair found leak still persisted, head gasket behind the tension control arm for belt, only leaked at high rpm's or high heat. I thoroughly drained fluid, filled with water, drained, filled and heated to full temp, repeated many times. Filled with distilled water, drained, filled again with distilled, heated by running and drained, etc (back flush included)... Filled with Dexcool 50/50 and added white label as advised. Immediately noticed my nice clean bright orange fluid turn brown!!! I mean dark brown. I was very alarmed, but figured what the heck, it's already leaking. I ran engine as directed. The leak did stop! I was very happy in leak stopping. I even got under car/engine and saw the white buildup where the leak was and the sealant solidified on the exterior by the iron to alum seam (white build up). Surprisingly three days later another leak started, near the drain of the radiator. I thought it was the drain o-ring leaking, but I couldn't get it to stop. Two weeks into it, a big puddle (like a burst occurred) was under the car. Please note, fluid on driveway did not evaporate after two days! I wiped it up and was amazed, totally jell in texture. Back to radiator, I could tell by fluid trail that it was higher up on radiator. Significant work and disassembly revealed the radiator plastic had a crack in it. I am sure Blue Devil would disagree, but I think my later findings (see below) caused excessive heat build up which equals pressure, to cause failure. So, this whole time I always used distilled water. I noticed after first day, after browning of fluid, there were white floaty's in the fluid. If this were a normal system, you would never allow the visual condition of the fluid to be acceptable. I have not found a post to state this either. Radiator leak, I used JB Weld to fix the crack. Yes it worked, I did it with fluid level below crack. Applied three layers with a thin steel support material between last two (yes that sucker worked!!). System totally holds pressure and no leaks. Now I am still concerned on my near black fluid. I cant find anything to say color is normal. I drain, back flush, fill, dain, fill, back flush... run to hot and repeat.. this was a week long process to get clean clear water after running engine hot (still spring here). The first collection of black/ grey fluid was put into a clear bottle. It is not transparent except against bright light. Then you can see its grey color with white globs of jell. Fouling is a descriptive word for glycol breakdown, you get jelling, solids and such. This is what you get with this product and Dexcool. Yes it worked but wonder how long your system stays free flowing. I am very happy it stopped by leak, I just wish it didn't mud up my fluid. For you that are questioning one thing or another.. I took new Dexcool fluid and poured it into a glass jar, 1/4" deep and then added the few drops left in Blue Devil bottle, guess what, DARK BROWN coolant, not that nice bright orange. Maybe there is a negative reaction with the crappy chevy engineers desire to create Dexcool coolant? I couldnt find a similar post to my experiences anywhere. Hopefully this keeps Chevy ppl informed. Like I said, it sealed like a champ, but radiator cracked (dont give me coincidence BS), jelling of leak, jelling of fluid that was drained, clumps of build up in fluid collected after flushing.. Buyer be cautious!! This might be perfect but it might clog your heater core and/or radiator and/or thermistat (white label states thermistat doesn't need to be removed). Money spent so far, $35 blue, 3 bottle of anti freeze @ $14 ea, $10 on distilled water. Still cheaper than head repair!