armoglaze Odorless Bathtub Refinishing Kit – Durable, Self-Leveling Epoxy for DIY Reglazing – Works on Porcelain, Fiberglass, Enamel, Acrylic, Cast Iron – 2.7kg – Made in the USA

I recently took on my first bathtub refinishing project and wasn’t sure which product to use. After some research, I decided to try the Armoglaze Bathtub Refinishing Kit, and I’m so glad I did. While the process seemed a bit daunting at first, the results were fantastic, and with the right preparation, it was surprisingly straightforward. **Preparation is Key** The most important lesson I learned is that proper preparation is crucial for success. You'll start by thoroughly scrubbing the tub with an abrasive cleaner to remove grime and residue. If I were to do this again, I’d use a small orbital tool (like those used for car buffing) to make the process faster and more efficient. A razor blade scraper is an absolute must-have and proved invaluable at every stage of the process. From opening the box to removing old caulk during prep, and even cleaning up after painting. The scraper made it easy to clean up those excess paint along the edges, leaving a neat and polished finish. **Painting Process** The kit comes with everything you need, and mixing the epoxy is simple. You combine a small jar of Part A directly into the bucket of Part B, creating more than enough epoxy to cover an entire tub. I actually found myself removing excess epoxy pooling by the drain. The instructions clearly mention that you might need to use the entire mixture, which I did not heed (and should have). If you’re new to this, I highly recommend watching the official Armoglaze how-to video, which demonstrates the process in under two minutes. It’s a great way to familiarize yourself with the tools in the kit and the technique. Take some time to practice the motions beforehand, as you’ll only have about 1.5 to 2 hours to apply the epoxy once it’s mixed. The epoxy spreads smoothly and evenly, and its self-leveling properties work like magic to correct minor imperfections. Just be sure to start coating from the upper areas of the tub, as the enamel will naturally flow toward the bottom. **Final Thoughts** Overall, the Armoglaze kit made my first refinishing project a success. The instructions were clear, and the product delivered a smooth, professional-looking finish. While it does take effort and patience—especially during the prep work—the results are absolutely worth it. If you’re new to bathtub refinishing, I highly recommend this kit. Just heed the instructions, and don’t forget to cover your tub’s spout! Learn from my mistakes, and you’re sure to love the outcome!

I am a complete amateur! I don't do "Do it yourself' projects," but I'm living in a rental house right now that is over 50 years old, and my bathroom had a horrible blue bathtub that had chips and stains all over it! Obviously, I'm not putting a lot of money into a house I don't own, but I hated that bathtub so much! It felt dirty every time I got in it no matter how much I cleaned. So---I had already painted and epoxied the horrible blue counter, and that turned out beautiful (mixed in some pearl pigment, the whole counter looks like pearl marble now). So--I figured if I could do a counter, why not a bathtub? I read up about different products, and nearly everyone seemed to have had total failures with the cheap Rust-oleum products, so I decided I'd rather put a little more money into it and get it right the first time! I was so proud of myself! I work 40 hrs. a week, so I had to devote weekends to prepping the tub, and I literally spent two weekends on it. I scrubbed it with everything, sanded it twice, fixed the chips. Then I poured the stuff and got started! Oh my God! You know that video where the guy goes through it so fast and makes it look like it is the easiest thing in the world? Looked like he never even spilled a drop? I should have made a video of myself doing it, and they could have played that one first and called it, "What not to do!" I had paint everywhere! My nice taped plastic came up 10 minutes after I started, and it was crumbling up all over the place, hitting the sides of the tub, and my comb and trowel kept getting lost in it. I had paint covering half my face, my neck, both arms, one of my ears, both feet and my stomach (never quite figured out how it got there)! I was sweating like a pig after 10 minutes in that hot bathroom! If you sweat--it's a problem because you can't get this stuff wet. I sweated a lot of drops into it. I did figure out that I could tell the difference between the sweat and the bubbles because the sweat had a yellowish look to it, and those drops wouldn't go away with the heat gun like the bubbles would. It was actually fixable if I went over it with some more paint, but I had to constantly turn around and wipe my face on a hanging towel (be sure you have one because your gloved hands are going to be covered in paint, so you can't just pick up a towel and wipe your face). Also, if you are a sweater, tie a tight headband around your head to catch some of the sweat. Given the fact that my plastic was all over the place instead of taped in front of the tub, when I poured the paint on the outside, I had about a five inch pool on the floor all along the outside of the tub. Luckily, I'm planning to cover the old ugly linoleum with stick tiles anyway (which cost $8 a box at Roses), so it was no big problem for me, but I'm sure it would be for someone who plans to keep their floor. After an hour and a half, I was so hot and so tired and so thirsty that I thought I'd die if I didn't get out of there. I had just tried to fix a couple of places on the front, and I had drips running all over the place, and it looked horrible. I thought, "Okay, it was worth a try. I'll just have to scrape it all off." Then, I went out and went to the other bathroom and spent 30 minutes pouring acetone all over myself trying to get the paint off. My clothes went into the garbage--don't even think you're going to be able to save your clothes so wear something you hate! Once I was finally clean and cleaned up the paint marks on the floor where I tracked it with my bare feet, and had a nice glass of ice tea, I felt better--when to my horror I suddenly realized I hadn't taken the tape off the drains! I think I actually cried a little at the thought of going back in there. But when I went in, I was amazed that all that dripping on the front was gone, and it was level! Taking the tape off the drains was a nasty little mess--nothing like the easy little job they did in the video, but I did manage to get them off. The RESULT! After all that mess and sweating and crumpled plastic---the tub turned out perfect! There is not a single drip or mistake anywhere! It looks like a new tub! So, the moral of this story is---if I could do this with all of my amateur mistakes--ANYONE can do it. If you put your time into the prep work, it's really hard to mess this up, (even though doing it is a horrible mess--you just have to know that going in and decide whether saving a few thousands bucks on a tub is worth a couple hours of mind-numbing horror!) I LOVE the new tub! Wish I had some pictures, but I have the first Trac Phone that was ever invented, and it doesn't take pictures, do voicemail, and sometimes it doesn't even ring. So--I'll have to leave it all to your imagination, but I'm thrilled! My bathtub looks amazing! After all of that--I'd try buy this stuff & try it again!

Nice and white! Makes the bathtub look very pretty! But my, oh, my, slippery, slippery, slippery! It’s like sliding on ice in the bathtub. So, if you use it, be prepared to put down a lot of waterproof anti-skid pads (stickers). I had to cover most of the bottom of the tub with anti-skid stickers. Or maybe one could sand over the finished product, but that probably would just dull the finished product.

Used this product on an old plastic shower pan. There is a smaller kit, but I got this one as my shower is “full sized” and I didn’t want to fear I’d run out of epoxy during the application process. I pretty much used 75% of the kit for this project. There was a ton of prep work ahead of this to remove old caulking and wash any chemicals or dirt from the pan. We washed and scrubbed and scrubbed and washed probably 4 or 5 times after we were 100% sure any old caulking was gone. Final cleaning was with a rubbing alcohol. After taping off the walls and drain, I put a couple of layers of plastic on the bathroom floor so that I could remove a layer periodically to keep the working area clean. Think I read this in someone else’s review. This didn’t work so well, it was such a mess, I wasn’t about to try removing a a layer of covering in the middle of the project. When you are ready to apply, be ready to be on your knees for 2 solid hours. Application was exactly as seen in the videos online. After 7 minutes of slow mixing the chemicals, Just put some epoxy in a red solo cup and pour it out on the edges letting it run down to the bottom of the pan. The kit came with some brushes and a yellow squeegee. I literally only used the yellow squeegee. I tried the brush once which put lines in the epoxy, so tossed it aside to use the squeegee. Way more efficient. Probably took me 25 minutes to finish the application. The remaining hour and a half was spent hunched over the drain scrapping out the excess that flowed. I used the yellow squeegee, but it probably would have been easier with a smaller or curved device. Maybe even a large spoon. Just take it slow and scoop it out. Over time the chemicals thicken and the paint you scoop out comes less and less. Once I was done, I left the tape in the drain and on the edges of the floor overnight while everything dried. This made it a bit difficult to remove the tape the next day. Probably should have taken it off when it was still “moist” but not still flowing. Anyway, I cut it with a razor blade carefully and it was fine. The final product is about 1/16” or more thick. This was at our vacation home, so we left the next day. The epoxy cured for 2 weeks before we returned and stepped on it. Visually it looks awesome. In an up close inspection there are a few minor flaws, but nothing that would stand out if you weren’t aware. My wife and I are very happy with the outcome. Spending the money on this was a 100 times cheaper than replacing the pan by a professional. Time will tell how it holds up, but for us, it’s not used daily so should be good for years to come. Oh one other thing to add, because the shower pan is plastic, there was no need to use the etching chemical. I called the company and spoke with the owner who said that is only needed for application on a metal tub. For a plastic pan, you can apply the epoxy directly after doing the appropriate prep work.

I have waited to complete 50 days of testing this product before writing a review. I repaired the floor of my shower stall, a single piece acrylic unit. The floor surface area is probably only 1/3 of the surface area of a full bathtub, but I bought the full package and split the two mixing component perfectly in half, saving the other half for a boat repair job. The application was not difficult for someone accustomed to home repair. Follow all instructions exactly as laid out for the product. In my before / after photo, you can see that I had to "gut" a large section of the tub. There was a crack about 3 inches long and another crack about 1/2 inch long. When I finally decided to conduct the repair, I wasted time exploring the underside of the shower unit (it is accessible from the basement). These units are built well with a 2-3 inch base, including fiberglass mesh and strong plywood. The problem was not support, it was a thin layer separation due to poor adhesion of the finish layer on top, essentially the acrylic coating on the original shower unit had raised off the support base. As I peeled away at the crack, I found that the surface layer was 1/8th of an inch raised off the support structure, hence, a heavy step in the right location causes too much pressure and the original acrylic snapped. After gutting out all the separated acrylic surface and rounding all edges with an angle grinder and sander, I filled the entire unit with professional gold Bondo body filler according to instructions. It is important to ensure the finished, sanded surface is as smooth and level before adding the Armorglaze. If there is even a tiny ripple or a pocket, the Armorglaze product will follow the contour and the ripple or pocket or dimple will show up. I knew this and was careful, but on final inspection, I found two spots that I did not quite finish as well as I should have. However, they are so small, only I notice and they are in the corners where it as tough to access. The drain-cover process is tedious and requires a couple of hours of constant wiping and cleaning. I have worked with thin-set applications of concrete and I believe it is important to follow the instructions and make sure the finish layer you apply is 1/16 inch or less, as instructed. This thinness provides more flexibility when fully cured. Also, one issue is color. The product is pure white, my unit is off-white. However, as I was careful to do the entire bottom from a fixed line (I have a steady hand and I did this by eye, not tape) and allowed the product to drip from the cup and poor down off the wall, about one inch up from the curved side. It looks like it was made that way, almost like a two-tone finish. Honestly, with shadows and not so bright light in the shower unit, I don't think a visitor would even notice. It would be nice if the product came with a compatible yellow dye to add by drop with a color comparison chart to alter the color to various shades of off-white. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck! I will update this review if necessary.

After experiencing a shower pan failure on my tiled shower floor, I decided to give the Armoglaze Refinishing Kit a try. I'm not exactly a DIY expert—I have zero experience working with epoxy—but this kit made the project surprisingly manageable. I started by thoroughly cleaning, scrubbing, and sanding the existing tiled floor, then applied two coats of acrylic primer. Once I had the surface prepped, I used the epoxy from the kit to create a new, waterproof shower floor. The procedures were straightforward, and the application process was simple enough for someone like me who isn’t very handy. One aspect I particularly appreciated was how easy it was to eliminate air bubbles using a heat gun; this step was a breeze and really helped achieve a smooth finish. Although the new floor is still in the drying phase (it's been a few days), it already looks great and gives off a modern, seamless appearance. The only minor drawback I noticed is that the surface is a bit slick. To address this, I plan to use a shower floor mat for added safety until I see how it performs with regular shower use over the coming months. Overall, I’m pleased with how this kit has transformed my shower floor, and I look forward to seeing how it holds up over time. If you're considering a DIY project for your shower floor and aren’t too experienced with epoxy, I would definitely recommend giving the Armoglaze Refinishing Kit a try!

I bought a 1950s double drainboard sink and I mean to tell you, it was in extremely bad shape. There were holes that had rusted through completely and some that were starting to eat completely through. With the suggestion made that holes would need to be filled with bondo body filler, sanded and all blemishes corrected before the pour, it made for an amazing new finish for the sink. After making the necessary fills and sanding it smooth, I primed and painted the bottom surface and continued to the side to be poured. Following the video as outlined for a tub and the instructions printed in the most detailed fashion, there's no way to fail as long as you do everything as outlined. I finished the pour and within 5 hours, it was set enough to move to our workshop to set up on saw horses to finish the curing process. I couldn't be more thrilled. The product came quickly and everything that was outlined in the kit and instructions were provided for me to complete the project without having to run all over town, hunting down supplies. The supplies included are professional grade products except the paint brush that is a cheap throw away because you're going to be brushing on the etching compound and there's no salvaging that brush for another project. I've seen this product used about 25 years ago when I worked as a leasing agent in a large apartment community. When done right and if the aftercare instructions are followed, this finish on your tub or sink should last you about 10-20 years. They do include those aftercare instructions with the paperwork. The price is right and the outcome is even better. The hard work you put into cleaning, sanding, degreasing, patching and then watching the video to learn the pour technique and reading over the instructions a bazillion times before you start...it's well worth the time. I still peak into the workshop just to pat myself on the back as I just look over my job well done. It's very satisfying.

I've now used both Armoglaze and Ektopel. The products both seem wonderful to me. They self level readily ,take about 2 hours to set up and apply easily enough once you have a little experience working with the product. Since this is a review for Armoglaze I'll stick to the experience I had with it. Since it was my first using anything like this I read all the instructions and watched numerous videos, did extensive prep work on n the surface, used the provided etch, brought the room up to temperature, taped off all the exposed edges, follpwed the mixing rules religiously, and proceeded. Though the job came out good, I struggled with two issues throughput the process. Even though I brought the room up to temp (even using an extra jester for some tr) ,the tub itself never got warm enough. And of course that's where the product goes.Afterwards I was able to make sense of it. The air temp can be enough but our tub is sitting over an unheated crawl space which, though insulated has holes for pipes and drains. By finally breaking out the heat gun the project went ahead fine but if I had it to do again I would have brought heat from underneath well beforehand and hit the surface with a temp probe to be sure it was up to temp. The other issue I had was with the applicatilor The other product uses a roller .I wish I had had one on this job. The tubs curves and slope and corners were a challenge for me with the comb and scoop method encouraged by this kit The product is great. The surface finish is hard and smooth. The color is terrific. If this had not been my first experience it would have gone much easier. The next time around went off without a hitch. Love the product , learning curve not so much, ymmv.