Homewerks VWM-DUA-F3B Washing Machine Valve, Male Pipe Thread, Brass, 1/2-Inch

This allowed me to replace just the top part of the valve without having to remove Sheetrock & all the work involved in getting 21 year old pipes off the old fittings (shut the main water off, removed (2) FLAT HEAD screws on top shown in picture & this allowed valve assembly to come off of brass pipe fittings). After putting on new one, it leaked like crazy because of the 0-rings as other reviewers have mentioned (original o-rings looked fine but this valve & old one are ever so slightly different) One reviewer sanded/ground down new bottom of assembly to make work, I went to hardware store & bought new o-rings which were slight fatter but same diameter and this solved the problem, NO LEAKS. I used #11 o-rings on the bottom & #6 o-rings on the top screws (top wasn't leaking but since I was at the hardware store anyways I thought this was cheap insurance) I believe if I had used the entire new assembly it would have worked fine, but since I only used the valve portion it needed bigger o-rings or to remove/grind off some of the bottom of the assembly to make only 1 small groove like the original had. For me the 0-rings were the quick easy, working solution.

I had to add extra gaskets from the old fixture to ensure a leak proof installation. Other than that, it was fairly easy to replace the old valve with the new one. Since then, this has worked leak-free for a year.

This works as intended, is simple to install and will save you a large bill if a professional plumber needs to do it. Yes, it's made in China but it's as good as the one I just removed. Mine was rusted out and would leak when I flipped the stopcock to on. By the way, I just went to a large well known hardware store and they wanted almost $30 for the exact same item. All in all, it saved me a large sum of money by doing it myself.

I had a Watts shutoff valve that I installed 25 years ago. In the last year or so the valve was leaking at the spindle by the shutoff handle. At first just a few drops then during the last 6 months enough to wet the concrete floor below about 6" in diameter. The last straw was when I replaced the washer and once the hoses were removed I found that the cold side was not shutting off. It produced a constant stream of drips. I now realized that several of the seals were going bad. I had looked into a seal repair kit before, but the cost was about half of what an original replacement would be and more than the Homewerks valve here.After reading reviews and seeing that most of these valves were 2 3/8 in on center I decided I could replace the unit by removing the large screws and placing it over my existing soldered brass adaptors from the Watts unit.Everything worked well. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: The stainless steel screws that hold the threaded adaptors on the Homewerks valve are longer than the ones on the Watts. When trying to use these they wouldn't seat because the threaded portion on the soldered Watts adaptors weren't as deep. I simply used the original stainless screws from the Watts valve. I removed the O-rings from the screws on the Homewerks valve and put them on the old ones. I also took the O-rings from the threaded brass adaptors and after removing the old ones, put them on the soldered adaptors.With the new O-rings in place all I had to do was tighten the large screws to seat the valve and I had a brand new, non-leaking, valve.

Well finished product. I used it to replace a 20 year old Oatey. As has been previously reported it is necessary to use different o rings when using the new faucet with old (existing) stems. I used Danco #11 (3/4" od 3/32" wall) for the faucet to stem connection and Danco #6 (7/16" od 1/16" wall) under the stainless screws. Incidentally I reused the old screws as the new ones did not seem to fit correctly. No leaks. This of course says nothing about long term service,but the faucet looks as though it should be long lived. Be certain to reuse your old stainless screws as the ones supplied with the new valve are metric.

Great replacement for the original Oatey 38822 dual shutoff valve that had been in place for over 20 years, with one caveat: the o-rings provided with this valve were too thin to make a leak-proof seal between the top of the new valve and the original Oatey bottom bases that were connected to the water supply. So the solution as another reviewer pointed out was to replace the o-rings with thicker ones available from Home Depot. Specifically, you'll need Danco #11 o-rings (3/4" O.D. x 9/16" I.D. x 3/32" thickness). They come in a box of 10 for less than $3. (Note that Danco #11 is NOT the same as #11 in other industry standards.)So all in all, a great value for the money.

Works as intended. Not super smooth operation and the quality and finish is subpar. Time will tell how well it performs. Price was very competitive so I gave it 3 stars.

Easy to install if the pipes are the right width apart, or can be angled as such. I replaced the included unused O-rings with my own slightly thicker ones, as I heard they could be a weak link in this type of valve regardless of manufacture. In service 1 year, no leaks, works fine. I do wish I had just used individual boiler drains as you can choose hot or cold, not both at the same time, which complicates garden hose use if desired.

Not quite identical to the one I had but it fit.