VEVORMag Drill Press, 1550W 2" Boring Diameter, 2922lbf Power Magnetic Drill, 500 PRM, 10-Speed, Electric Drilling Machine for Metal Surface, Industrial and Home Improvement

Good quality , solid tool definitely quality , is it a $2,000 tubing mag - no is it extremely impressive for ~$250 yes , yes it is

Why did you pick this product vs others?:All I can say is this mag drill is awesome

Received my drill looks like it was a return box wasn’t factory sealed everything was there except the safety strap tried it walks fine

No reverse on this model (D8860). Older more common Weldon shank. Comes with a inexpensive twist drill chuck. This will have limited use for those ( even regular jobber bits) unless you can get more distance from the base. They need to sell some cooling fluid, hard to find less than a gallon,(which is half the price of the drill).This does not has a switch on the bottom to shut off if it comes loose ( metsl.too thin, dirty). Note: some other brands don't have one either. Mine was missing a 2.5mm hex wrench.. Wish there was on-board wrench storage. Went to the dollar store and got a small box for accessories.

The machine is great! But I would like to tell Vevor that they mention nothing about what type of cutting oil goes in the "cooling well" that cools the bits.

Vevor has a number of similar mag drills listed on Amazon; this review is for the orange 1550W non reversible Weldon bit attachment and variable speed. The up and down travel is limited for use with a 3 jaw chuck and standard drill bits. Mine arrived without any damage which is surprising for how heavy it is. The runout with a dial indicator on the outside of the shaft was better than expected 0.002” overall, the inside diameter runout was the same. I managed to reduce the inner runout to 0.001” by polishing the bore with a Dremel and rubberized abrasive. I guess I was lucky the material needing removal was opposite one of the set screws. I marked the setscrew that needs to be tightened first to minimize runout.Then I raised the motor attachment points by removing the e clip on the handle pinion shaft and sliding the shaft toward the handle end to disengage the rack. It didn’t want to come apart until I loosened up the gibb adjustments. I turned the aluminum dovetail motor carrier part end for end, after making two new dowel pin counter bores. I also had to turn the rack around, requiring three new holes.Then the power cord to the motor was too short with the motor in the top position; but I really didn’t like the plastic wire gland sticking out the top and moved it to the side. I turned the black plastic top 1800 degrees and repositioned the gland where the cord would just clear the frame in the down position. The gland was m12 x 1.5 which is fairly standard and the plastic cover is thick enough to thread.Then I the power cord sticking out the back was less than optimal and moved it to the top of the control box as far back from the motor gland as I thought practical. The power cord gland is m15 x1.5 which isn’t common, but taps are available on Amazon. While I had the control box open I scraped the paint off the inside where a FET was screwed to the case and added some thermal paste to promote cooling.It is variable speed, but does not have a feedback circuit for constant RPM. It would be nice if it were reversible.The magnet didn’t get too warm while I was testing it for a couple of hours with it attached to an inch thick steel plate. It probably will get hotter on thin material; that is just the way electromagnets work. A vast improvement would be to make a variable magnet circuit to allow easy positioning. Now it’s all or nothing; I might dig into the schematic and see if I can make the magnet variable.

This drill cuts very well through heavy plate steel. Used this today and it cuts very nicely through 1.5” plate steel to make a yoke adapter for my tractor. I look forward to using this drill again tomorrow to cut the two other holes to complete the adapter.

Love this drill. Holds strong and is easy to use.