Seeutek Alcohol Still 13.2 Gal 50L Water Alcohol Distiller Spirits Kit w/Circulating Pump, Copper Tube & Dual Display Thermometer, Home Brew Wine Making Kit Oil Boiler Stainless Steel for DIY Whisky

It takes some babysitting, but running cold water through the condenser as high up the pot as possible is key (I recommend buying a tube clamp to help with this), as well as keeping as consistent a temperature as possible. Turn cheap cheap vodka into a pure, clean ethanol...still tastes like vodka, but is sooooo much cleaner. I didn't believe there would be that big of a difference, but you have a better buzz, smoother taste (in mixed drinks you can't even taste it), and best of all...no hangover whatsoever (at least for me). If done properly, it comes out highly concentrated (think ever clear) but if you purchase a decent hydrometer, you can easily dilute it with tap water (or any water of your choice) and get it back to the proof you'd like (I set mine to 60 because it's still so smooth and can't taste it in mixed drinks so why not?). Unless you really know what you're doing and want to make large batches, go with the 3 gallon, it's much easier to store/handle/setup.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: For Distillation of Medicinal Plants Functionality: Great for doing batches of essential oils. Value for money: The price is very affordable

It works well, but there's a few flaws especially for those in the USA. 1. The plastic hoses are far too short for most USA homes, since we don't use portable burners, so we can't place the still 6" from the sink. Easily solved though by buying 2 x 10' long 3/8in inside diameter hoses. 2. The worm box is small, and sits directly on top of the still, so it gets hotter faster than it should. If you live in a desert climate like me (California, Utah, Nevada...) then you are goin to want to set up an eco-friendly configuration since your state will likely fine you otherwise for redirecting the entire contents of a small river to cool the worm box. Eco-friendly configuration: Ignore the instructions that tell you to hook the cold water input to your hose. Instead, what we are going to do is turn your double-sink into an enormous worm box for your worm box coolant. This works well because there is so much surface area in your sink: Plug both sides of the sink. Fill one side 3/4 full of cold water. Place the bottom tube with sink attachment for weight hanging over the empty side of the sink. We're going to use this tube as a hot water drain instead of a cold water input. Place the top tube in either side of the sink, we don't care since we're just going to use this for overflow protection, so not much water will flow through it. Get a small pitcher and dunk it in the cold water side of the sink, then pour it into the worm box. You will need to do this continually to keep the worm box filled, so either use an underwater pump for this, or expect some exercise. I like the exercise. When the cold side of the sink gets low, then simply move the drain hose into the other side of the sink and then start scooping / pumping from the full side that is now cooled down thanks to the surface area of the sink.

Good 👍

The size takes longer for cooking time but its a nice slow and steady stream once it's up to temp. Easy to separate it through the cooking stages. I don't like that the end of the worm is so close to the edge and thus the heat source .

Read a book or two and run it with water a couple times to clean it out and get comfortable setting it up and running it. I ferment Golden Barrel Black Strap Molasses and end up with a bit of Parts Cleaner, a bit of Delicious Rum and a bit of low quality stuff I call Grog. I know this is going to sound strange but Black Sails and 24 to 17% abv Grog go very well together. Give the Rum time to Age while getting your pirate face on with the Grog.

Complete trash. Copper hose inside "condenser" was bent on arrival. When i turned it on the liquid just shot straight up theough the tubing without evaporating or condensing. The lid dosen't close tight enough, so I had to use paper towels to get extea tension AND I had to add 4 C-Clamps to get it to seal. Don't buy this garbage, instead maybe get a hammer and some copper sheeting and build your own from scratch like they did for thousands of years. The boiler also heats up the condenser. There's not lid on the condenser so you can't get water pressure though. It really just looks like still without actually being able to distill anything.

Once I have enough money, I will be replacing this with a better brand/still. This unit is pretty good with some modifications. During my first run, I noticed that the pot leaked in a few places. Where the upper tube connects to the lid, and where the lid and pot connect (even with the silicon gasket in place) What I did to fix the issues and modifications. First thing I did was to extend the copper tubing and put the condenser further away from the still. That way there was less chance of vapor getting lit by fire. I fixed the leak where the copper tube and lid meet by tightening the nut and then using silicon (food grade) to seal any small leaks. I have to do this each time I run if I disconnect the copper tubing from the lid. So I have to do this every time I get it out of storage which is every couple weeks. The main leak was where the lid met the pot. The issue was that the latches were welded too high on the side of the pot. If they had been moved down about 4mm, it would be perfect. I just folded up a paper towel and placed it under the latch to make the latches harder to close. This was enough to make a seal.

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