Kidde KA-B, KA-F Universal Smoke Alarm Adapters, 2 Different Units for different types of Alarms , White

Just like another reviewer, my home was built in 2001, and it was equipped with Firex 120-1072B units in each room wired for interconnectivity. One of my units began to sound randomly even when there was no fire. I changed the batteries in all units, but one kept beeping (the one by the kitchen exposed to cooking). Considering that recommendations are to fully replace smoke detectors after 10 years I decided to replace them all. After searching online, I found that the Kidde i4618 is the current replacement model. I also got the Kidde KA-F Universal Smoke Alarm Adapters so that I did not have to fuss with any wiring or even have to turn off the breakers.The adapters fit easily although it took a very firm hand pressure to snap them on. (It really is a snap on adapter from both sides, to the old connection and then to the detector, so no tools required other than a screw driver to loosen the old mounting bracket and replace it with the new one.) The mounting brackets fit easily with the existing screws from the old detectors' mounting plate. The mounting plates were the tiniest bit bigger around, so perfectly covered paint lines going around the old detectors (no paint touch up required!)Again it took very firm hand pressure to snap on the adapter to the new smoke detector plus this made the detector beep loud which startled me at first. Connected correctly the light goes green. One I thought connected correctly had a flashing red light so I pressed harder to snap the connector on more firmly into place, and it went green.The detector, attached by wires, simply rotates snuggly into the mounting bracket. It took me less than 10 minutes per detector, and was of course easier after the first one where I was scared at first to press really hard to snap everything in place.I would recommend these smoke detectors (and the adapters).

I had to replace 9 Firex alarms that are connected. These adaptors made the job much easier; working on a ladder to re-wire the nine units would have literally been a pain in the neck. With these, I twisted the old units off, unplugged them, loosened the screws holding the mounting plate to the box, snaked the plug through the new mounting plate, tightened the screws to hold the mounting plate in place, plugged the old plug into the adaptor, the adaptor into the new alarm, and twisted the new alarm onto the plate after inserting their batteries. You don't need these adaptors, but they really save time. Unfortunately, the best price I could find was to buy this set of two; only one of each set will work with your alarm. Seems wasteful; I will toss the unused adaptors. I guess they made them 'idiot' proof in that you don't have to know which adaptor your unit will need. However, you will need to remove at least one of your current units to find out the model; the online description clearly states which alarms these adaptors will work for.

Understand that this would probably be a five-star review if I had read the fine print and it worked for me. Here it is - pay careful attention"For use with Firex® wire in smoke alarms. The KA-Fcan only be used when replacing Firex® models:FADC, ADC, AD.Model KA-BFor use with First Alert® and BRK®wire-in smoke alarmsModel KA-FFor use with Firexwire-in smoke alarmsThe KA-F can only beused when replacingFirex® models: FADC,ADC, AD.My firex smoke detector to be replaced was a very common model, I believe the FX1020, and I foolishly believed that all Firex would have the same pin pattern. They do not! Look at your old smoke alarm and if it has 3 equidistant pins, the KA-F adapter will not work.No major problem as the smoke detector is furnished with an adapter and three nicely tinned leads which can be easily wire nutted to the leads on the old adapter. There will be three wires - black, white, and red. The red is not used unless you are linking the detector to other detectors. Simply leave the cap on the red wire and stuff it up into the box.Cut the old white and black wires, wire nut them to the new adapter and you are ready to go. WARNING! The reason that I chose this inexpensive adapter is that it would have allowed me to make this connection without having to turn the power off. I found the circuit that was labeled for the smoke detectors room and turned it off. Guess what? That did not turn off the power supply to the smoke detector and I got a nice little pop when the white and black wire brushed together. This was a big mea culpa as I knew that proper procedure would have been to use my multi-tester which I have, and verify that the circuit was not live. If you don't want to turn them off one by one in order to find the circuit, turn them all off. The only downside to this is you will have to reset a few clocks.I might as well give a couple more pointers in this extensive review. Your new detector is furnished with a baseplate which will need to be interchanged with the old detector baseplate. The old baseplate will be fastened to the electrical box with two screws - simply unscrew those enough to rotate the old baseplate and pull it off. Now determine which of the two patterns will fit your electrical box and screw the plate down.Bring the wiring harness through the hole in the center of the baseplate and connect to the new smoke detector. (Be sure to pull the strip, if supplied, which allows the 9 V battery backup to go live). Fit the smoke detector to the baseplate and twist clockwise until fully locked then turn power back on.If you are comfortable stripping wires and wire nUtting, don't bother with the adapter even if it will fit your unit. It's a waste of money but do be absolutely certain that power is turned off.