Upgrade M3 Hex Screw in Fixing Thermistor 100K 3950 Temperature Sensor for Ender 3 V2 Pro CR10 and Other 3D Printer Extruder Hotend (100K 3950)

It was easy to install and works wonderfully.

These temp sensors are the best. As the regular two wire and and a bulb ones break, I replace them with these. These thread in and the first 25mm is covered by a support spring/shield. The robust build of these sensors keeps them from breaking after a large glob out of the hot end. I've installed these on for of my printers and will eventually have them in all of them.

I got this, and it lasted 2 years of on-and-off printing. I think I killed it with a few nasty clogs, but. Easy install, easy to thread through the wire loom on my voxelab Aquila 2. It comes with a different connector type in case it's needed. It also has a connector closer to the thermistor end, so if you do need to replace it, it's very, very easy to unplug and plug in a new one.

Bought this to replace another screw in thermistor that had two thin wires connecting the screw in which on broke. Just like another review, I Installed the thermistor on my ender 3 pro and upon start up printer went into thermal Run away. I thought it might have been because it was a bit loose. Bought a new Heater block and installed it and bam thermal run away on start up. Also not sure why they did not use all JST connectors on the cable.

I had one on my Ender 5 Pro and it worked great! I didn't even have to splice in extension wire for once! But I got a new hot end and broke it while trying to unscrew it. I tried a glass bead but installed it poorly. So I ordered another one of these. Unfortunately when twisting it in it shorted. I am getting a replacement tomorrow. I hope it works as well as the first or I will have to revise this review.

the function is identical to the original thermistor but, this one threads into the heater block. this is the way they should all be made.

Absolutely perfect replacement for the glass bead thermistor that came with my Voxelab Aquila. It comes with a male JST connector, but... the installed connector for the thermistor is male...soo...there I would have to do more cutting and splicing to utilize the JST connector. My only suggestion, include a male and female JST connector or leave the free and tinned.It works GREAT and my thermals are 100% consistent now. This makes way more sense than using the bead anyhow. You're getting full contact with the thermistor and the heatblock.

My Ender 3 V2 Neo had the thermistor die after a month of owning it, and the second one that I had to Frankenstein together because they're longer and unobtanium not long after that maybe another month. This one has been going strong, it's a better design. Make sure to do a PID tune and run temp towers, I didn't find it made a big difference but you should always do it anyway. B

Alles perfekt. Jederzeit gerne wieder

FUngerade felfritt i ungefär 3 månader innan den registerarede omöjliga temperaturer. Kommer absolut inte köpa igen!

Da das 5er Set Thermistoren nun aufge(b)raucht ist, wollte ich mich mal nach robusten Sensoren umschauen. Bevor ich jedoch den noch guten Heatblick gegen einen wieder neuen tausche, gucke ich, was man mit dem alten machen kann. Und siehe da, dieser Workaround kommt sie gerufen.Schnell eingebaut, neu gecrimpt...Aber passt er? Ich habe einen Satsana Druckkopf. Da passt er wirklich gerade so, liegt aber mitten im Bereich der rechten Bauteilkühlung. Das ist nicht nur blöd für die Nozzle, sondern auch für die Temperaturen, die jetzt deutlich mehr schwanken als die alten Thermistoren kurz vor ihrem Ende (ca.+-5°C).Dennoch läuft er nun auch schon ein gutes Stück länger als die anderen Thermistoren.

Wat een verschil met de vorige sensor een klein glazen staafje wat niet goedvast te zetten was en tijdens het drukken los kwam waardoor de hele print omzeepwas . NU GEWOON INSCHROEVEN ( M3 ) EN KLAAR . losgaan is nu onmogelijk tijdenshet printen . enkel de stekker heb ik moeten veranderen , maar dat is met een soldeerbouten twee stukjes krimpkous zo gefixt

The media could not be loaded. Aucun soucis pour l'installer. Je fais attention à ne rien abîmer, ne pas tordre les câbles en vissant, ni trop les courber. Je fais même un test en laissant la machine chauffer à 250°C pendant 30min à vide pour voir la thermistance reste constante.Rien à signaler, je lance donc mon impression.1h45 (sur un total de 3h) la température fait le yoyo entre 210 et 230 au lieu de rester à 220°C.Ca c'est ma première impression de ce matin. Depuis j'essaie de chercher l'origine du problème mais rien à faire.J'ai réinstallé une ancienne thermistance, elle fonctionne parfaitement. Le problème vient donc de la nouvelle pourtant neuve.200g de filament et 8h de taff flingués.