

🎨 Elevate your craft with precision and control — don’t just paint, create a masterpiece!
The GSI Creos Mr. Procon Boy WA Platinum Airbrush is a professional-grade, double action airbrush featuring a 0.3mm nozzle and a 10ml gravity feed cup. Its innovative Air Up System allows precise airflow adjustments tailored to various paint types, ensuring smooth, even coats without splatter. Crafted in Japan with high-quality materials, it offers superior durability and performance, making it the ideal upgrade for modelers and artists seeking precision and reliability at an exceptional value.

| ASIN | B0030AO94U |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (851) |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 13.7 ounces |
| Item model number | GNZ-PS289 |
| Manufacturer | Bluefin Distribution Toys |
| Manufacturer recommended age | 15 years and up |
| Product Dimensions | 8.46 x 3.89 x 1.69 inches |
| Release date | May 23, 2020 |
J**S
Best value in Japanese airbrushes?
It's not perfect, but it takes five stars for value. For less than $100 you are getting a very nicely machined, reliable, Japanese airbrush. It is well worth it to upgrade from the typical Chinese budget model to this gun. It's not without some drawbacks, though. GSI Creos uses its own hose system instead of the industry standard Iwata style. I never use the hose, which means I am paying for something that is useless. Also, this is a heavy airbrush. If you are doing t-shirt work or illustration where you are standing up and supporting the airbrush, it will have some drag on your hand as you work. The MAC valve on this airbrush allows you to set the airflow within the body of the airbrush itself. I never use these. Instead, I use a quick disconnect that has a MAC valve on the air hose. The MAC valve here just adds weight and additional cost. There is a version without the MAC valve, thankfully. The fit and finish are really good, as you would expect from the Japanese factory. I have 9 of the airbrushes from this series and they all perform well. Replacement parts are more of an issue, as you'll have to hunt around a bit. Trigger action is fine... not light, not super heavy. You can get a nice fine spray pattern out of the 0.3mm. Most users (particularly modelers, who are complete idiots when it comes to airbrush technique) will be well served by the 0.3mm. There's no need to get a 0.18mm or 0.2mm unless you are doing illustration.
A**G
Major improvement over Kit Airbrushes
If you're unsure how an airbrush can be different, or better, because you can get by with your included kit airbrush... you're not alone! I too wondered what could possibly be different enough to warrant spending $100 on an airbrush, let alone $150 for the much recommended Iwata Eclipse. The reviews for $100+ airbrushes all mention things that don't sound very integral to the experience, but if you're doing figure/miniature/gunpla painting, they absolutely are. I feel that learning on a bad airbrush helped me get over my fears, but it taught me to be afraid of doing detailed work. I haven't used more expensive brushes than this, and my skill level isn't at a place to appreciate the differences to a $400 brush, but I recommend this airbrush to all beginners/intermediates. This air brush is that line where the tool will no longer hold you back; it's all on you from here on out. What makes this air brush different than a Master or generic kit brush? 1. The trigger has a smooth action. This didn't seem all that important because, again, I got used to my airbrush. I figured a little bit different wasn't a huge deal. I was wrong. A smooth action and no slightly grainy texture helps prevent you from making splatter mistakes. Letting go of the trigger too abruptly causes splatter when the needle smacks into the nozzle. That doesn't happen with this brush because the margin for error is much higher since it has a great spring and smooth pull. 2. The modulation on the paint spray is much greater. What I mean is, you have more degrees of spraying paint when pulling back than with the other brush. I know what you're thinking: "I'm fine". But it's a game changer. Instead of your airbrush basically having 3 settings: Dry "I'm testing it out" Spray, "For-real this time Spray", and "Torrential Downpour", it feels like you now have way more freedom. It actually took me some time to get used to it because now I could actually be precise and move in close with the brush to get primer in small nooks. 3. The cap doesn't get clogged because the needle is higher quality. I had to buy a new needle for my kit brush ($12 for a set of 3) because it arrived SLIGHTLY bent. My spray was leaning upwards which meant the cap kept getting clogged. This brush's cap isn't circular and even if you mess up and get paint in it, it won't pool it up in front of your needle. 4. The cup is easier to clean. It's actually well finished all throughout. I'll guess your kit brush looks chrome all through but has slight ridges towards the bottom. Or maybe it's super cheap and looks like unfinished brass towards the end. That's because it's machined cheaply. A fully finished and well made cup equates to a huge time saver. Changing colors is now no longer a 3-4 minute activity but 30-40 seconds. Full clean only at the end of the session. 5. Lack of nozzle leaks means it atomizes paint like a champ. Let's be straight, my cheap brush with a decent compressor can atomize paint. However, because it leaks air near the nozzle (check by putting soapy water near the nozzle cap and needle cap) it means I can expect it to spit every so often. Not to mention additional clean up and o-ring damage. My old airbrush spit tiny, tiny dots of paint once in awhile. Speckles ruin the finish. If you want to do any sort of slight detail work like pre-shading you probably gave up already. I didn't realize this was a solvable problem. I've primed over 40 pieces today and not a single sputter or speck. What fresh hell have I been putting myself through? If you're looking to stop fixing your models and get to actually painting them, I suggest you start here. Just comparing the specs with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS this air brush blows it out of the water for $50 less. Nozzle/Needle replacement ready, perfect needle size for all the hobbies I listed above, and you get a mac valve! Just make sure you invest in a real compressor with tank first (The standard $79-89 kit compressors are more than fine).
C**W
Definitely worth the money and the shipping time
I haven't had a chance to really use this brush long but I did spray with it and it did a great job. I have a Creos PS-770 that has a much smaller needle and it's awesome for detail work but I wanted something a little more middle of the road and just easy to spray with. Based on the build quality of the 770 I decided to give this a try. For approx $80 this thing is a phenomenal buy. I'm not a pro so I can't compare this to dozens of brushes. I just don't have that experience level but using this was easy and it sprayed really well right out of the box. I'm really looking forward to using it on the several model aircraft I was gifted last Christmas. I took the nozzle cap off and it sprayed a nice clean line a little less than 1mm wide. I would really recommend this as a great first airbrush or a general all-around tool for anyone. I plan to use this to lay down a couple of coats over wider surfaces or for priming and using the 770 for fine details.
C**D
Great Airbrush for the money.
I had been dragging my feet for about a year now with replacing my Iwata HP-CS and Paasche Talon with a different airbrush. I'd been looking at the CSI Creos PS series for awhile now until deciding on this particular one. Really, I wanted the PS-771 which is over $200+ but decided I'd give this model a try before making a more expensive decision. First off, I'm a scale modeler who primarily builds armor and the occasional WWII fighter aircraft and do a lot of camo patterns and weathering detailing..ie: fading of panels etc. I tested this airbrush with the top three paint brands I use; Tamiya, Ammo Of Mig and Vallejo Model Air, trying out different air pressures and each brand atomized really well during spraying. The trigger action IMO is more smooth than my Iwata HP-CS and leagues better than my Paasche Talon. I also have the Paasche Raptor, which is about the same as the Talon in terms of trigger action. I'll be keeping those three for primers and base coating and will primarily use the PS-289 for detail work and camo patterns. For under $100, the finish and quality of the CSI Creos PS-289 is extraordinary. Inside the paint cup is smooth, the chrome finish is flawless. I've not seen a better airbrush for this price range that's made this well and functions like the more expensive airbrushes like Harder & Steinbeck. I highly recommend this airbrush to anyone from a beginner to and advanced user.
C**.
For the price a really nice airbrush - perfect for the intermediate and advanced modeller
D**A
... ou plutôt - QUALITÉ ! Jour et nuit à côté de mon ancien aerographe à 25€. Pourquoi je ne l'ai pas acheté avant ?
A**N
Llevaba un año utilizando un aerografo genérico de esos que tienen un mini compresor cuadrado incluido para adentrarme a este mundo y ver si me gustaba lo suficiente para después hacerme de uno de mayor calidad/más caro. Después de practicar lo suficiente con él aerografo genérico y de hallarle a sus mañas, decidí actualizarme, pero mi presupuesto estaba apretado y al final estaba indeciso si irme por un Iwata Eclipse, un Neo, o por este modelo, el GSI Creos PS-289. Al final elegí el GSI Creos ya que leí maravillas de el, y en que prácticamente es catalogado como un Iwata Eclipse disfrazado, pero a un precio mucho menor por el simple hecho de no ser marca Iwata, pero eso si, con la misma alta calidad, ya que este aerografo también es fabricado en Japón (Y en el que incluso se afirma que son fabricados en el mismo recinto en el que se fabrican los aerografos Iwata, a diferencia del Neo, el cual está fabricado en China y en el que Iwata unicamente presta su nombre para ese modelo. En fin, eh estado probando el PS-289 por varios días de forma exhaustiva y wow. WOW! De lo que me estaba perdiendo al no haber adquirido un aerografo de alta calidad, amikos! Es esplendido y simplemente no se compara en lo absoluto al aerografo genérico ya que para empezar, con ese me era muy difícil atomizar la pintura de forma precisa, si no es que imposible y yo se lo atribuía a mi falta de practica, pero con el PS-289 lo puedo realizar de forma natural y con una facilidad que asusta! Además gracias a su real acabado pulido en el interior del vaso, es súper fácil de limpiarlo una vez que terminas de pintar, por lo tanto si requieres cambiar de colores de forma rápida, solo basta con una pequeña enjuagada y listo además de que es capaz de pulverizar la pintura sin necesidad de diluir en exceso las pinturas (Yo utilizo pinturas acrílicas comunes diluidas con agua destilada y sin problemas). En resumen, si estas buscando dar el siguiente paso en adquirir un aerografo de alta calidad sin gastar mucho, este es el aerografo que buscas ya que básicamente estarás adquiriendo un Iwata Eclipse pero tres veces más barato. Realmente me sorprende como un aerografo de nivel profesional puede costar prácticamente lo mismo que un Neo de Iwata, pero con una calidad mucho mayor en todos los aspectos.
R**U
Good quality, best for beginner or experienced professionals
A**O
Un aerografo ottimo sotto ogni aspetto , oserei dire migliore di altre marche blasonate , vedremo nel tempo se anche la durata corrisponde alle mie impressioni . Comunque consiglio l'acquisto a coloro che vogliono ottenere dei buoni risultati rispetto all'uso di aerografi economici o per principianti. Amazon perfetta .
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