12014 Moly-Spray Dry Film Aerosol Lubricant, Black, (Net weight: 14 oz.) 20 oz.

This is the same stuff sold by Lyman and other gun product sellers for mollying bullets. This stuff is awesome on copper jacketed and even solid lead bullets. Here is how I apply it: I use the styrofoam from a Sherri's Berries order that I got some time time ago. It works perfect. Just drill through the foam which is covered with plastic using a bit that just smaller than your shell casing. I am able to get 80 holes in a single sheet of the foam. push the rounds up through the holes then flip the whole thing over (use the berries box it is just the right size). The molly the bullet ends of the rounds. Rotate the box 4 times and apply from all angles. One can of this moly will easily coat 20+ boxes. You won't have to clean your barrel much in fact you don't really want to since the molly will coat the lands. Just need to run a wet patch through every couple of boxes (won't help with the chore of cleaning the lower, sorry). Anyway, this stuff rocks!

I am an unabashed fan of molybdenum disulfide dry type lubricants. This because they are an aerosol application that surface dries immediately on contact, resists the entry of dust, dirt, and grime, has excellent surface lubrication, and develops excellent ong use surface anti-friction lubricating properties.This is an excellent lubricant for most applications.

This spray is magnificent. I've always had problems with sand, salt and corrosion buildup in the exterior sliding door track and rollers at my beach house. It seems like I was cleaning them every 3 months and applying every kind of lubricant known to man, from silicone to teflon, oil, graphite and every dry lubricant I could find. Then I happened to read an ad about Moly-Spray. The sliders had gotten worse than ever - I couldn't even open or close them. After cleaning them, I sprayed a light coating of Moly-Spray, let it dry overnight and reapplied a second coat on day #2. After another period of drying, I tried the door and it slid effortlessly. I hasn't gummed up, corroded or jammed ever since. It may cost a few dollars more but it's worth every penny. Just be cautious that you wear a mask to avoiding breathing any of the aerosol. It can be dangerous if you're not careful when it's applied. I'm a believer!

This is an excellent lubricant. Molybdenum disulfide is the perfect replacement for graphite on aluminum surfaces because the MoS2 won't cause corrosion when it gets wet like the graphite will. It adheres well and doesn't wipe off easily after the liquid carrier evaporates (if you do need to clean it up try acetone), and makes it easy to clean dust and residue off of previously treated parts.The bad review comes from two problems:The lack of a directional straw to aim the lubricant spray precisely (the nozzle is like a spray paint can and not interchangeable with one from a lubricant can).And the can I received was not shipped with a cap or padding. The other contents of the package have dark molybdenum streaks because the lubricant was able to discharge in the box with no cap to protect the spray nozzle and padding to keep the other contents from shifting to trigger the spray.

Does as advertised.

a lot of stuff just really needs wet lube, like my chair didn't work at all better, though I know if I hit it with WD40 I'll get better performance.

Good stuff, but don't mistake it for something that it isn't.Things that this lube is good for: Dusty areas where you want to keep parts from gunking up. Bolts you don't want siezing Cast steel and forged steel friction joints, etc...Things this lube won't do: Inhibit rust, protect against moisture, clean up existing rust. It's just not made for it. It claims corrosion resistance but corrosion resistance is NOT equivalent to rust inhibiting.

it is sticky