Engine Oil Pressure Sensor - Replaces 12673134, 12585328, 926-041 - Compatible with Chevy, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Vehicles - Silverado, Trailblazer, Yukon, Sierra, Savana, Suburban, Tahoe, Impala

(11/12/2019)Check Engine light came on and oil pressure gauge showed zero oil pressure but engine sounded fine (although I shut it off pronto when that light came on and the oil pressure showed zero!) An OBD2 scan showed codes P0521 (Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Performance) and P0523 (Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage). That gave me confidence it was just the sensor.I decided to give this part a try, as it was considerably cheaper than the OEM GM part and looked essentially identical. There was also a review from someone with a 2010 6.2L, and it worked for them. The dealer wanted $87 for the GM/AC Delco Sensor part. Online prices were about $45 for the GM/AC Delco part. This was $18 after a $2 coupon, and was shipped "1 day prime". It might not last as long the original (which lasted 10 years and 113K miles) but I probably don't need it to. It's working ok so far, and maybe even better than the original sensor. The original showed about 40 PSI whenever the engine was on, and didn't really move with engine RPM changes. The new sensor shows about 25 PSI at low idle (500 RPM), about 40 PSI at around 1200-1500 RPM and varies up to about 60 PSI when the engine is running at 2500-3000 RPM. That seems more "correct" to me - that the pressure would vary somewhat with engine speed.The GM dealer quoted me about $500 parts and labor to fix this. Another local mechanic, not a dealer, quoting just based on the "shop book" time and parts quoted me over $625! That's just nuts, even assuming removal of the intake manifold, new gaskets and the pressure sensor and reassembly. Nuts.But I found an ASE certified mechanic that appears to be honest (from many reviews) and isn't a "by the shop book" pricer. He quoted me 100 labor if he could reach it without removing the intake or $200 labor if he had to remove the intake, and $60 for the intake gaskets. He installed it without removing anything but the top engine cover, didn't remove the intake, and used this part which I provided, and in the end only charged me $80. He showed me the tool he used (wish I'd taken a photo). It was a deep socket he had cut a little shorter and then welded at the top, plus a small extender and a swivel extension. Kind of a custom thing. He said the oil pressure sockets are a little too long. I bet he did this in 10 minutes tops, and he's probably done it 500 times on various Chevy/GM vehicles. But I was happy to pay him $80 to do it for me, even knowing that. I had tried a couple times but I couldn't get the hoses off I thought I needed to get off, and it was a tough reach to get to it. The "correct" way, which ensures you can see what you are doing and can properly retorque the sensor to spec is to remove the intake manifold completely. But this method works ok for a lot of folks.If you want to do this on your 6.2L, there's a great video on You Tube by 1A Auto Parts called "How to Replace Oil Pressure Sender 09-14 Chevy Suburban 1500" that shows the whole process of removing the intake and replacing the sensor on a 6.2L engine. Two benefits to watching this if doing it yourself: 1 - it's in focus and well narrated, and you can see how to disconnect everything including fuel lines (be sure to depressurize) and various quick connectors that are a headache. He names all the parts he's removing so if you aren't sure what some of that stuff is, then you will know! As opposed to most You tube videos shot by some dork with their iphone in one hand while trying to repair with the other. 2. You can see exactly where the sensor is and what it looks like when it's NOT buried. If doing it yourself, I recommend taking 30 minutes to watch this. Good luck!

Direct plug in sensor. Was a nightmare to install, very tight quarters but I got it done in less than an hour, with plenty of help from YouTube. Price was excellent I also bought a socket specific for this sensor.

This was a perfect replacement for my 2010 Chevy Tahoe. Was reading 0 oil pressure and check engine light on. Code indicated it was the oil pressure sensor. Ordered this one and it worked great. Old sensor (beige) and screen in the picture on the left new sensor (black) and screen in the picture on the right I also recommend you get the socket. It's almost impossible to get this oil pressure sensor out without removing the manifold. You can try, but it's easier if you just remove the air intake manifold.

perfect fit for 2010 silverado 5.3 .works like oem but at a more affordable price can't go wrong with this product.

This product is designed poorly at best. The metal base isn’t crimped over the plastic connector. It lasts about 10 seconds before exploding. Best part about this is, you have to reinstall everything to start the vehicle up. So I had my time, and money wasted. Utter garbage do not buy. DO NOT BUY THE DESIGN IS COMPLETELY FLAWED SND WILL NOT WORK OR LAST YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

Make sure you clean our or replace the strainer under it while you’re replacing it. I’ve done it 4 times on my 230k mile Sierra. Common issue you’ll get real good at changing them out

i receive two nock sensor and oil pressure sensor, i all ready install de knock sensors with no problem and is working good.but the oil sensor i can't install because the one i receive is different that mi car have (oem).

Product appears to be on par with AC Delco and others. After replacing this sensor the check engine light briefly went away before oil pressure surged to 80psi and engine codes returned with high sensor voltage and oil pressure zero’d out. Mechanically checking oil pressure and using multimeter to check source voltage both checked out per usual - turns out I perhaps recurved faulty oil pressure sensor, but this is just my best guess. I replaced with AC Delco and all is 100% good to go.Funnily enough, years ago I had same issue happen with genuine AC Delco sensor on an older truck, and the first replacement was a dud from AC Delco. Flukes happen (unfortunately), but overall I’d feel comfortable giving this product another chance in the future.