Denso234-9041 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor

Bought 3 sensors before this that AMAZON said was the upstream sensor and would fit my car. Lesson being DONT trust amazon!! I couldnt read the part # on the old air/fuel mix sensor so I has to count the holes in the old sensors tip(mine was 7 total, 6 around the cylinder and 1 at the tip) And the only one that had 6 was this part # 234-9041. Oreillys had 2 of them in stock for 169.99$. YIKES! I paid 124$ with tax prime shipping. The other three sensors I bought the ad got changed to downstream after leaving a review with pix saying it doesnt work. Check Engine Light instantly went off after starting. Let it run cause it seemed to be doing a idle mixture check. SO happy I mean I only saved like 45$ But I also did Fuel filter/ Fuel pump strainer bag for 32$ and all my high rpm idling went away. It would cold start @ 1600rpm and I would need to let it run to let the rpm lower before shifting gears because shifting into reverse at 1400-1600 rpm is BAD it will slam into gear hard. Had Jerky unresponsive acceleration that was such a pain in traffic. The fuel filter and strainer were CLOGGED black. Put the new beck arnley fuel filter in and the 5$ strainer bag total 32$ and the fuel pump is RIGHT UNDER your rear seat and has an access port. Took 40 minutes to change out. Hardest part is the auto-electrical connectors are hard to un plug lol. and those damn evil clips from hell on the assembly, The clip on the strainer bag make sure to use an AWL to stretch that ring clip out and a flathhead to pres it under its lip on the shaft again.took me 40-50 minutes and could have done my fuel pump too but it wasnt having problems starting just the funky acceleration. So The denso pump I have I KNOW is better than a cheap 20$ replacement pump. I think the denso pumps 50$. When I replace the fuel filter again in 20k miles (should be every 30k but it was so dirty I expect this one to dirty up sooner.) I will replace the pump with the 50$ original denso. Maybe. Those pumps are durable and it never took more than 4-5 cranks to start the engine 3 being ideal. IE : eht eht eht vroomAnyway I hope I helped a few camry owners with the fuel problem. ALSO if you hear a ticking noise in your engine. Put your hand on the canister purge solenoid near the intake filter. That is probably stuck open letting air into the engine running it hot. Which WILL burnout new Air/Fuel mix sensor in a few months if let go. The fuel mix sensor failing is a failsafe to save the engine from running too lean and hot too long. The air mix sensor failing provides rich max fuel running to prevent the solenoid purge valve from your gas tank from burning up your motor. SO if you have an engine code for that solenoid as did I for that and sensor 1 bank 1 p0031 I only found the solenoids original denso part on Ebay and Rock Auto. Ebay was 70$ rock auto was 77$. But after adding the solenoid, fuel filter/fuel pump strainer & this sensor It purrs like a kitty kat. Oh also bought Denso iridium power spark plugs as my old ones were fried from the solenoid sticking open and running the motor so lean. When you replace those, check your ignition boots I had a connector melt but it works fine. Wont be touching it now until I replace the harness and coil.Hope I helped some camry owners. Will update from this date if engine light comes on or sensor fails on me. If its not updated it is still working 100%!Edit: water in trunk caused a brake light grounding problem that made my battery positive terminal corrode and made my horn weak, and cruise control not work. Found the corroded brake light ground in trunk. Wire brush cleaned it and my problems are gone. Although my canister purge solenoid is ticking again and my scanner has broken so im not driving it hoping i dont ruin the sensor until i get a scanner.

I had this problem:On Dash: VSC + Check-Engine + 4WD lights lit.DTC: P2195: Bank 1 Sensor 1 Stuck Lean.After installing the product I have driven over 200 miles for last couple of weeks and no problem so far. I don't anticipate any either!This is how I did the $400 job myself:--- I have a OBDII reader that helped determine the cause. It is the Air-Fuel Sensor, aka upstream O2 sensor, aka Bank 1 sensor 1 on RAV4. It senses the burnt mixture for air to fuel stoichiometric ratio (a ratio at which the fuel is completely burnt, 1:14.7 or something). It does not behave same like the downstream O2 sensor. The CPU continually tweaks the voltage/current to it so reading the voltage at the sensor wont tell you whether the sensor is defective or not. You read it after the CPU and that means high end OBDII reader. Reading the resistance wont tell you much either!-- Order with some risk that the electrical connector will not fit. Make sure you can return. Check the connector for fit once received.-- Order an O2 sensor socket (has a slit on the side). Most are 3/8" drive with 7/8” socket.-- Idle the engine for 30 seconds -- no more. It will warm up slightly.-- The O2 sensor (aka air-fuel sensor in this particular case) is located on the exhaust manifold coming straight out of the engine. It will be on your right as you face the car. There will be a cable going to it.-- Soak the base of existing sensor with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil (not Garage Door lube!) . Wait 1 hour for the liquid to loosen the rust.-- Disconnect battery negative and wait 30 seconds at least (sudden air-bag deployment). Attempt to remove existing sensor with 3/8" drive 12" torque wrench. If it doesn't loosen with about 40 ft-lb of force, re-soak and retry. Don't force it or else you might strip the thread ($$$). Gentle tapping around the base will help to loosen it.-- If you cannot loosen it, take it to Meineke or someplace that can install it for you.-- Once loosened, remove the battery! This will give you straight access to the sensor. You can see the sensor hole from that side.Install the new sensor with supplied anti seize compound – just enough to get a thin coating on the threads. Hand-tighten it first.-- Make sure to torque it to 32 ft-lbs of force. Make sure to route the cable through the hose clip to avoid touching anything that gets hot.Reinstall battery. Re-connect all cables and start the engine.-- Check for exhaust leaks. You will visibly see water vapor like fumes coming from the sensor base. I set the torque wrench wrong and it had 30 ft-lbs on it. And it was leaking! If leaks, immediately shut off the engine. You are in danger of CO poisoning.Re-torque slightly more. Be careful ,... it will be hot! Once I re-torqued to 32 ft-lb it stopped leaking.-- The act of disconnecting the battery will remove the DTC code as well unless you have some other problem. So, you will not see any immediate DTC code after changing.-- Drive it at least 5 miles with 2 stops – stop means stopping the engine and taking the key out. If you still do not get any DTC code, you are probably OK. This same test had been failing for me for about a month when I decided to change the sensor.I have attached some photos that show exactly what I received.

My 2009 hybrid camry had the P2195 code (02 sensor signal stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1). A little web research led me to find this OEM replacement. The local dealership wanted 335 $ plus tax for the exact same one I found here. Fully accessible, it is really easy to change out yourself. Part also came with a small tube of copper anti seize for the install. Cleared the code after installation and it has not returned. Shipped to my door in 2 days; this only cost me 174 $ (CAD). To have this repair done at dealership it would've been close to 500$ !!Go for it, you CAN do it ! Thank you Amazon

Good quality. Would buy again.

Works great, got rid of my check engine light and no longer have an error code on my obd scanner.

Worked perfect mind you it confirmed that my catalytic is done.

Part looks identical to what came out of my 2010 Lexus RX350. Installed easily and completely corrected problem. Check engine light has been off ever since. Highly recommended.