Dorman 741-904 Front Driver Side Power Window Motor and Regulator Assembly for Select Nissan Models

Wasn't too hard to install (I found a Youtube video) and it works - but - it goes down instead of up and vice versa. I took it apart again and I don't see any way to change that. Not a big deal, and it saved me the fortune it would have cost to have a mechanic do it

Instalado y funcionando correctamente, agujeros de tornillería coinciden para su rápida instalación

Le quedo muy bien a mi sentra 03, funciona la función automática.

Bought these to install on my 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8s special b15 and it fit fine and had no problems. I now have a 2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R b15 and decided to buy this again (amazon said it was compatible with this vehicle as well). When I got to installing I had to spread the brackets on the regulator for it to line up on the holes for screws (I don’t know if it was squished somewhere at some point or different). When I go to plug it in I see that the connector is different, compared to Original, this part had a rectangular long wired connector and not oval directly on the motor. Fortunately I work on cars often and decided to cut the connectors and solder the wires. And boom it works. So I’m guessing that the connector changed somewhere between 2002 and 2006 or the SE-R has a different connector. But nonetheless with a little tinkering it will work, but if you’re looking for an exact fit and don’t want to mess with it buy from Nissan or have a mechanic install

This 741-904 combination product is an economical replacement for both the Sentra's driver side window motor and the window regulator. The overall quality/motor finish was not as good as the Nissan parts, but for the price a good value. The motor leads were reversed vs. my car's OE window up/down switch (see my paragraph below), which is the reason for 3 stars.The motor was an economical Makita motor, same reputable company making drills, in a galvanized/bakelite gearbox housing, and only the guide of the regulator had the part number 741-904 Made in Taiwan scribed into it, but no Dorman logo which is not uncommon. The motor leads were in a black sheath rather than blue (Nissan and Dorman Amazon pic) which apparently is not surprising (not a Dorman knock-off). Product looks like it will do the job and the Nissan parts it replaces are like $300. You can buy the motor (  Dorman 742-503 Window Lift Motor  ) and regulator (  Dorman 740-904 Front Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator for Nissan Sentra  ) separately but if they are 10-15 years old, make the call thinking of how much wear and tear you've got. This Dorman combo is the same quality as buying the corresponding Dorman motor and regulator separately, because the combo currently practically gives you the regulator free, or the other way around the motor for half price, though this could change.As many others have found, unfortunately the polarity on the motor's wires is reversed for my application year. Dorman claims incredible engineering to make things better than OE. LOLOther observations:1) The motor and the regulator are sold as a single assembly, but in mine, you can unscrew the motor (together w/reducing gearbox) from the regulator with three fairly standard sized phillips screws which attach it to its mount on the regulator. That's just like the Nissan original, and you'd have both parts which are also sold separately.2) When removing the door trim to gain access to the liner and regulator/motor mount, you need to pull the armrest up first. There is a cup shaped part in the rear piece of the armrest which has especially fragile pressure/clip connectors and some putty to secure it better. Be as careful as you can depressing spring clamps/clips securing the "cup" part below if you can, some of my unseen plastic split there, though it isn't a big problem, I was not happy about it. If you have a bit of putty it might be helpful, you will see where they use it once you get it apart and it is a nice thing to have to make a better fit if needed rather than introduce a potential gap and vibration. Not a big deal, but nice to do as my putty was too old to reuse.3) As expected, you must keep all of your original door mounting bolts, as none are included. You're best off with a 10 mm hex socket/ratchet to take them out of the door. Three secure the motor casing on the door and four hold the regulator on the door for a total of seven matte (dark) galvanized color 10 mm bolts.4) There are two electrical connectors unplugged for the job. One is a harness which for me gives the driver control of all 4 windows independently with roughly a dozen wires which is detached when removing the door trim first. This is wired into all the windows, and basically independent of the replacement you are doing, but must be unplugged to disassemble the door trim. The harness wires are braided together with tape and a few inches upstream, two wires come off their braid and go into a plug that is a small, simple connector.5) The simple connector coming off the harness mates with the two leads coming off the Dorman motor. Those two leads are in a sheath, currently in the Amazon picture as a blue sheath. They are probably soldered to the brushes inside the motor on the motor end (I didn't check the Dorman part, but I looked at the Nissan original part and that is how it was) and on the free end, into the male side of the plug. You unplug this to remove and swap out the old parts after you have removed the door trim. The Dorman part I got comes well-tape wrapped to the motor assembly. I had to remove this tape to free the motor plug and pass it through the hole the original part used - logical, just a note you may need to remove the tape. The original Nissan motor had the 2-wire motor leads coming off a reverse direction, which was more logical, so just be careful you don't pass the sheath anywhere too close obstructing the moving cable if you forgot how it was threaded out of the metal inside the door. Mark the hole it is secured into to remember since there are a lot of holes there ... the replacement motor cable has a plastic fastener like the like the door panel trim plastic snap rivet nails which holds it in place and don't insert the fastener on the new one till you are satisfied everything works the way you want.6) Two bright gold 10 mm hex bolts which also have a Phillips head set in them attach the glass pane to the regulator. If at all possible, use the old motor (temporarily plugging the harness into the control switches to adjust the window height making these two gold bolts accessible to your socket with a small socket extension on the ratchet. The window will be mostly open with just a couple of inches up when in position to remove these two bolts.7) When removing the window, be careful not to scratch it on the regulator, lifting it barely angled to lift out the exterior side of the door.8) Test the window once the Dorman replacement 7 bolts and 2 window bolts are secured, before you put the plastic sealing and trim back. If your switch works fine, but in reverse, you're not the first one. It is a judgement call if you want to switch the wires on the motor or harness (see below).9) You could put a little lithium grease in the rubber tracks set in the door that guide the sides of the glass if it is drying out or causing any resistance to window motion.About switching the motor leads if you find it necessary ... There are many places you can reverse them. You could:a) follow the two wires up to the main harness which mate to the master switches, and swap them in that main harness.b) you could cut the cable two leads coming off the main harness to the female 2-wire plug that mates with the motor connector and use something like a crimp butt connector on each to reverse them, orc) you could try to switch them in the female 2-wire plug itself, or going to the Dorman part,d) try to swap them in the male free connector end, ore) **my choice** cut/reverse, use crimp butt connectors near the free end on each of the two leads coming off the motor assembly, orf) open the motor/reducing gear box with 2 or three tiny phillips screws and reverse them in there.g) etc., anything that reverses motor polarity, even if you wanted to do it in the control switch.I DID NOT REVERSE MY LEADS AND DECIDED TO LIVE WITH THE PROBLEM. I had no quick crimp (solderless) connectors on hand and found the mating 2-wires plugs very well attached and didn't want to risk damage to them by trying to pull out the pins. I was not interested in opening the main harness at the cable braid since that is on the car side, not the replacement side, and I did not open the motor/gearbox since on the original Nissan unit the leads were soldered and I preferred to leave it factory assembled (magnets can chip). Now that the door is back together and looks perfect and all works great, yeah, I'm not pleased and regret going reverse a little, but in my case I made the call. Too bad I didn't have some quick crimp butt connecters (the tube kind with plastic outside and metal inside that you squeeze tight for a good crimped connection over the stripped ends of the wires) for the motor lead which is where I'd do, cutting it between the motor and plug ( e) above) knowing the situation now, but I had banked on the 2-wire plug being easy to pull out each individual lead/pin and reinsert it. It didn't work as easy as I hoped so you pay your money and take your chances. In my case I have always felt the window should move the opposite way the switch did ;-). So the problem is just the other three windows! Maybe buying the motor separately avoids this problem but that is hard to say. The same Chinese factories are making all of these originally for Dorman and now for aftermarket knockoffs, too. The point is that although the combo part has the same quality (motor, pully and plastic guide inserts are the Dorman spec), it could have been made in a different run in a different place and have minor difference in machining or assembly. That's the way this business works.Why are they reversed? LOL, aftermarket error. The ones that are reversed could be due to meeting all the specs for mounting which are carefully screened, but then using the same polarity as the passenger side in an oversight. Or it could have to do with Nissan changing the polarity for its Mexican made vehicles which was a rumor (was it those manufactured before 5/1/2001? LOL somwething like that) I read somewhere but that may be just a false rumor, I don't know and only mention it to be complete.. No matter what, it is Dorman's fault because this is supposed to be the 'plug and play' no splicing necessary product number for all 2000-2004 Sentras driver side windows according to the application info on their website at the time of purchase and review.My parts had bolt tear holes in the plastic bag they came packed inside, where it looked like someone mounted it while still in the bag, along with blue sharpie permanent marker for the 7 crucial bolts that were hand marked. I asked Dorman about this and they said when they get a shipment they pull random samples and test the hole tolerance distance (goodness of fit). the regulator came pre-lubricated. I had some doubts about it being a knockoff, but decided it was Dorman after reviewing it with their tech guy since the blue marker and lack of logo had me questioning that. No worries. To be fair my old Nissan motor is probably still good, but I made the judgement call to put everything new in there.The actual failure I had was some very minor fraying of the cable on the spool which derailed the winding and jammed it. Any fraying on the cable that raises and lowers the window and you must to replace it. While you could conceivably replace just the cable if you have one, that would be a real pain and you'd still have old plastic connectors which are prone to fail with time, so in any normal case you would just replace the regulator. Additionally, I had, one of those plastic cable guides (there are about 3-4) cracked off and the cable did not center as a result. That could have been a result of the cable jamming and me having to pull the window up manually when I had to close my car when the problem first happened, though. My 2001 Sentra GXE original window motor seemed weak (possible worn gears in gearbox) even though it was working when I got it out, so I decided after almost 15 years I'd better put in a new motor even if it was aftermarket quality due to the good price of this combo unit and the knowledge that at least the aftermarket motor and regulator were compatible (as you should expect, but I've been surprised before). I kept the old motor as a 'spare'.Good luck to all and thanks to all the reviewers and question replies which actually made the job pretty easy as long as you aren't squeamish about risking cracking a bit of internal plastic by the trim fasteners. Some of you may have a better tool to pry the trim off, but I just used my hands. Aligning a tool if you figure out where they are, to pop them out would be better but plastic gets brittle with time so your luck may vary. Dorman 742-503 Window Lift MotorDorman 740-904 Front Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator for Nissan Sentra