IVY Classic 35056 Swift Cut 10" 200 Tooth Aluminum & Plastic Cutting Circular Saw Blade with 5/8" Arbor, 1/Card

Cut like it should.

I purchased this blade for cutting aluminum fence posts and panels.I threw it in an old Hitachi miter saw and it went through everything I threw at it with relative ease. I wasn't cutting anything of a particularly heavy gauge, but I was very pleased with the performance in my application, and I found the price point very reasonable compared to some options that are out there (which may be engineered for a heavier gauge material).

Bought this for one purpose only, to cut through HO scale Bachmann EZ-Track on my table saw. The track has non-ferrous rails and its bed is plastic. It worked good but not great; the rails had little burrs that had to be filed off by hand. On the plus side, each cut was straight and perpendicular to the track, and making cuts was fast. It was better than using a hacksaw.

I use this blade to cut the frames for new window screens. I put this blade in my radial arm saw. It does a perfect job. Warning: the arrow printed on the blade is wrong. Pay attention to the direction of the teeth.

This worked great for cutting vinly siding on my chop saw and table saw. Highly recommend.

Happy with the performance in spite of probably abusing it. Using it on a table saw to cut plastic up to 3/4 inch thick. (Label says cuts up to 1/8” material). Taking it slow works for thicker pieces. Don’t know how long it will last. Will update if it wears out fast. NOTE: pay careful attention to rotation direction arrows—teeth look like they are backwards but they aren’t.

This blade came brand new in the package - so there is no reason for what happened.The first inkling that something was wrong was the fact that the teeth were set "backwards" to the spin of the saw blade. It took lots of pressure to cut through PVC pipe (2" pipe) on a 10" miter saw. It reminded me of a dull chain saw blade, because it produced a lot of powder. The cuts were fine (with 200 teeth, no surprise) - but the pressure it took was a little disturbing.I cut 1/16" aluminum flat (1 cut), and the edge was not clean. This should have been a clue. Then I attempted to cut 1/8" aluminum angle. This blade is "rated" for 1/8" aluminum. Again, it was disturbing the amount of pressure to cut - even when letting the teeth of the blade do the work. What happened next I have never seen in a saw blade and scared me. I made 9 cuts of 1/8" aluminum angle. The aluminum pieces got VERY hot. The blade started to flex and wobble - but, when I stopped the saw, the arbor nut was not loose. Then the blade started to cause the saw to "bump" up and down as it was cutting through the final 2 cuts. What I found after taking the blade off was melted aluminum clogging up large sections of the teeth. This is impossible to clean out, as it is truly melted aluminum. Also, the cut edge of the aluminum was a disaster and took quite a bit of grinding (wire wheel) to smooth out.Not happy. This would be going back, but it's outside the return time period.It cuts plastic OK - but beware of aluminum - it just doesn't work - and I was not pushing it hard, but trying to let the teeth of the blade do the work.I picked up a 100 tooth Oshlun non-ferrous blade. Double the price of this blade, but cuts like a dream (hot knife through butter) with no cleanup needed.

Its a solid blade, but not great. Im getting alot of melting with this blade. But for the price, its not that bad, so if you want just a cheap blade for some plastic/acrylic its not that bad. Would be best for PVC, short, quick cuts, just not long rip cuts down long pieces of acrylic sheets, where you want flawless long cuts.