K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain

The world’s second highest peak was designated “K2” by 19th-century British surveyors, and the name stuck--apparently because local peoples, most of whom had never seen the mountain, had not given it a name. For climbers, it is extremely challenging—over one three-year period, 15 expeditions attacked K2 without putting a single climber on its summit. Although the subtitle refers to K2 as “the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain,” the subtitle of a more recent Viesturs book calls Annapurna “the World’s Deadliest Peak.” Certainly, both are among the most dangerous. Ed Viesturs is one of the top high altitude climbers in the world. In his discussion of the literature about mountain climbing expeditions, Viesturs notes the trend from the no-dirty-linen approach to the tell-all approach. It seems his writing lies somewhere in between these two. He makes few negative comments on climbers’ personalities; but offers carefully reasoned evaluations of why an expedition succeeded or failed, and points out instances of incompetence or heroism. And he gives full credit to the Sherpas and to certain Sherpas in particular. In his words, the book might be called, “Lessons Learned from K2.” Relying on publications, including those of previous climbers, and his own experiences, Viesturs, aided by co-author David Roberts, describes how he reached the summit in 1992, and provides accounts of what he considers the six “most dramatic seasons in the mountain’s history.” The American expeditions of 1938, 1939, and 1953, the Italian expedition of 1954, the disastrous summers of 1986 and 2008, and Viesturs’ 1992 climb, are each subjected to careful analysis. Viesturs’ account of his 1992 climb is basically a re-written version of what he wrote in No Shortcuts to the Top—although each version contains personal details omitted from the other. K2 provides brief, but insightful, comments on the evolution of climbing gear. Over the decades covered in this book, the introduction of oxygen, headlamps, and radio, and improvements in food, clothing, boots, ropes, ice axes, pitons, and sleeping bags have brought significant changes in climbing strategies. The book also deals with the logistical problems of organizing expeditions and the high altitude illnesses some climbers experience. Viesturs stresses the importance of physical conditioning, route marking, prompt starts and early turnarounds on summit attempts, and cautious decision making. He dislikes the commercialization of climbing and some climbers’ use of modern technology to make up for inadequate climbing skills. He generally prefers to climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. His approach emphasizes self reliance; but he is appalled by those who fail to assist sick or injured climbers because they might have to sacrifice their own plans to do so. K2 has a useful index, and some great photographs. But it needs more detailed photos or drawings and maps. Many readers have a general knowledge of Mount Everest and the routes to its summit; but few have similar knowledge of K2. (This review is based on the paperback version of K2—the endpapers of the hardback version evidently included some of Dee Molenaar’s drawings and maps that were omitted from the paperback version, although they are cited in its index.) We are warned in the initial chapter that the book is not organized chronologically. In fact, the authors’ descriptions of years on K2 appear in the following order: 2008, 1992, 1938, 1939, 1953, 1954, and 1986. The authors place brief descriptions of the 1902 and 1909 expeditions in the third chapter. Chapter titles (e.g., “Decision,” “Brotherhood”) do not indicate a chapter’s subject. And the initial paragraphs in a chapter may not clarify its focus. For example, the chapter on the 1953 American expedition begins with an 8-page discussion of Viesturs’ life and interest in climbing. If there were reasons for this stream-of-consciousness writing style, the authors do not bother to present them. Within this questionable organizational scheme, however, the text is highly readable. Much of the information in K2 was drawn from other publications, and readers interested in a particular expedition may wish to read books about that expedition. But few will want to read all of the 25 books and 20 articles listed in the bibliography; for them, Viesturs’ thoughtful distillation of this literature and his critical evaluation of his sources will provide, at the least, an excellent introduction to this subject. Viesturs has followed up K2 with similar books about Annapurna [The Will to Climb (2011)] and Everest [The Mountain (2013)].

Written by one of the most accomplished mountaineers of all time, this is an authoritative look at many of the key expeditions on K2 (1938, 1939, 1953, 1954, 1986, 2008 eg). If you don't know, the author is one of a small group of men who have climbed all 14 of the world's 8000 meter peaks, so he writes with a huge wealth of experience. I find the story of such expeditions fascinating for many reasons, one of which is the decision-making that goes on as people face decisions on whether or not to try to summit, what equipment to take or leave, who to climb with, etc. I have tended to believe that many poor decisions are made, due a combination of factors such as extreme fatigue, hypoxia, summit fever, underestimating the weather pattern, etc. Ed, who I think is one of the few mountaineers, who does seem to take these factors into account enough, is not shy about pointing out when he thinks mistakes have been made. He will not always say so in so many words, but he lets you know what he would have done differently and why. Some reviewers criticize him for criticizing others, but I think this is a better approach than sweeping mistakes under the carpet and subtly implying that mountaineers are all noble, larger than life personas who never make serious mistakes. The accounts of the various expeditions make for fascinating reading. K2 is truly an extraordinarily dangerous mountain, and it is amazing that it has been climbed so many times, especially the early expeditions that had relatively primitive equipment. One side benefit of the book is that, being very well read, Ed gives what amounts to an annotated bibliography of mountaineering scattered throughout the book, so I have many ideas for further reading. One thing that I have learned is that if you want a more complete understanding of expeditions that have gone sour, you have to read more than one account. Conflicting accounts are common, with one author's hero often being another's villain (or at least an incompetent). A small quibble I have with this book is that the author occasionally loses focus on K2 to relate some of his own experiences that don't directly apply. They make for interesting reading, but because of them the book loses focus on the main topic here and there. Overall, a satisfying and illuminating read. My favorite K2 book remains, however, Jim Curran's book on the 1986 disaster, 'K2, Triumph and Tragedy'.

I've read all of Ed Viesturs' books, devouring them as they come out, and this one is definitely my favorite. That is saying much considering some of the amazing stories Viesturs has told over the years. Much of his work is about his remarkable personal accomplishments, but several of his books including one on Everest, one on Annapurna and this one on K2, also include significant material on the history of the mountaineering on those particular peaks. I have read many books on K2 (and mountainerring in general), including most of those by the master himself, Reinhold Messner, but this is one the most comprehensive, exciting and accessible of all of them. Veisturs' own stories and those he tells of some of history's greatest climbers are fascinating, but none more so than those who have attempted to climb K2, one of the most unforgiving and dangerous mountains in the world. Because of his own experiences with failure and success on K2, he is able to put a great deal of perspective on the attempts of others to get up and, more importantly (according to Veisturs simple wisdom), down this amazing mountain. The stories are loaded with unbelievable heroics and completely believable tragedies. Once begun, I was barely able to put this book down. I am a huge fan of this great American adventurer and remarkable mountain writer. There is much to learn from the attitudes and determination of the climbers over K2's modern history, both good and bad. Veisturs himself displays considerable wisdom and calm on the mountain even in the face of deadly peril, which reminds me of the same cool headed behavior in the face of incredible danger shown by the early astronauts. I wish I could emulate the same behavior every day of my life even though nearly every decision I make does not involve life or death. There are few heroes left in this world and Ed Veisturs is one of them. If you've never read one of his books, this is a great one to start with. Highly recommended.

I like reading adventure books especially about mountain climbing and volcanoes. I did go to the top of Mt Etna in Sicily and a volcano in NM. Now almost 60 and with a partial disability my climbing days are over so I can appreciate the climbers effort by reading great books. Ed Viesturs with David Roberts help wrote a great book about various expeditions climbing K2 the 2nd tallest moutain and most dangerous to climb in the world. There is also talk about other mountain climbs. There are two sections of great pictures B/W and color of the mountain and various climbers. The book was 342 pages of great action and adventure. No boring parts. I read this page burner in 2 days. Ed Viesturs is a family man that has climbed all 14 of the 8000m worldwide peaks. He is in the small elite group to do so and has vast experience: INMO as one of the greatest climbers today. We see that the majority of deaths in mountain climbing of the 8000m peaks occur in the descent when the climbers are more exhausted, supplies running out and are less alert to the constant dangers. Ed says getting to the summit is optional but getting down is mandatory for survival. We see his trying to take less chances by taking off at very late night from the top camp to be at a summit in early morning daylight to give him daylight time to come back to at least the top camp. Also he was very good with working with other climbers and helping others in distress and sacrificing his chances of reaching the summit. He reached K2 summit in 1992. He shows us the various other expeditions in the 1930s and onward and what went right and tragically/lethal wrong. Many people have died trying to reach the K2 summit. 1-19 people during the period he mentions died climbing Everest while around 1 in 6 died trying to reach K2's summit. a much more difficult and dangerous mountain. We see some of the really stupid mistakes made by some others that cost their lives and others in climbing K2 as well as being killed by bad weather, avalanches and acts of god. We see the great advancements in climbing equipment such as shoes, jackets, and more. We gain deep respect for the mountain local helpers that helped the regular climbers and some sacrificed their lives to save their boss climbers. Anyone interested in action and adventure books will appreciate this book and the various climbers on the different expeditions. 5 stars

I'm not a mountain climber, but being from the Seattle area I am quite familiar with Ed Viesturs and the fact that he is in the elite club of climbers to have scaled all 14 8,000M mountains in the world. Howerver, that is not what prompted me to read this book. I was discussing with a work colleague about challenges with two opposite and conflicting forces at work --- patience and impatience. He suggested this book because he said there was much to learn from Viesturs and the sport of mountain climbing on this topic. In that regard, "K2: L&D" delivered in spades, but it was fascinating for more than just that. This book recaps six seasons of climbing on what is probably the world's most challenging and dangerous mountain, including Viestur's first ascent of K2 in 1992. Others have complained that Viestur's essentially covers ground that other climbers have already covered in their books. While this is probably true, for a non-climber like me, I appreciated Viestur's summary of some of the more famous and tragic years climbing K2. I was never going to read a lengthy list of books by other climbers and a condensed account was sufficient to get enough depth for this reviewer. While the editing was not great --- there were plenty of redundant areas and parts that transitioned in odd ways, this book was thoroughly captivating. Viestur's paints dramatic differences between Everest and K2, most notably the greater risk inherent in K2 -- the ratio of summits/deaths is 19/1 for Everest but 4/1 for K2. Reading this book, you develop a keen sense that Viestur's has a healthy respect and awe for K2. While some may argue that he pats himself on the back quite a bit and is a bit cock, I'd be surprised if these weren't qualities most men and women who climb 8,000M mountains possess. You don't push your boundaries or nature's boundaries without having a healthy degree of self-confidence. Back to the reason I read this book. There certainly are lessons on patience/impatience to be learned from Viestur. Most decisions at high-altitude have life and death consequences and Viestur's has learned when the time is right to push for the summit and when reaching the summit is just not going to happen without exponentially increasing the odds that he won't survive. Clearly, he has found the right balance between these dichotomies. This is a fast and easy read and will leave you breathless in places. So grab your supplemental oxygen and be prepared for one death defying adventure on top of the world.

I'm fascinated with tails of mountaineering and I have huge respect for Ed Viesturs et. al. This is the second Viesturs book I have read, the other being No Shortcuts to the Top and I believe David Roberts is co-author of both books. I very much enjoy the story telling contained in these books and since I have some minor climbing and mountaineering experience for me the imagery is quite good. The authors help non-climbers with explanations of technical equipment and jargon. This is done succinctly so as not to distract from the story line. These accounts could be real page-turners, but unfortunately there are frequent and sometime tedious digressions from the action of the story to insert historical perspective or other commentary. Much of this material is interesting, but when it is delivered in the middle of the action the momentum is lost and the rhythm of the story lost. In some cases I have difficulty following the critical sequence of events in these stories because of the interruptions. These books are probably motivated by the desire to cash in on Ed's accomplishments, and he deserves every penny. However, I think that they would be more accessible and popular with non-climbers if they stuck to the accounts of awesome climbing.

I've enjoyed Mr. Viesturs' other books and this is no exception. Unlike 'no shortcuts' this is not autobiographical, the title is exactly what it is, a book about various expeditions on K2. Mr. Viesturs' has done his research and references the books he read in preparation and gives you his view on what's 'normal' within the context of mountaineering. (Every sport has its norms and he knows what's customary and what's not so in in a far better position to comment. ) As a librarian I appreciate good research and use of authoritative sources, if I were grading his work I'd give it an A. As a read it's a compelling narrative making me wonder yet again why anyone wants to climb those monster peaks but then again, why do I love reading the books they write after?! I wish I had bought this in paper as opposed to Kindle because I'd love easier access to the bibliography. Bottom line, if you like books about mountaineering and the history of mountaineering this is a great read. If you're looking to read more about Visturs' experiences this isn't it.

Though I am not a mountaineer, the world's tallest peaks have always intrigued me. Everest always gets the attention being the highest of these mountains but the one mountaineers all consider the most brutal and deadly is K2. Ed Viesturs is one of the world's most accomplished climbers. This American has climbed all his life and knows these peaks well. He wrote this book detailing his own 1992 expedition to K2 as well as the attempts by others. Viestur's is a voice of reason and calculated risk in a world that is full of tremendous ego and bravado. He thoughtfully explains why people get caught up in summit fever and put themselves in peril. I came to greatly respect this man and his professionalism. He doesn't seek to assuage his ego or etch his name in history. He only takes what the peaks are willing to give and then lives to tell about it. This is not to say Visteurs hasn't pushed the envelope. He has been willing to take on considerable risk but not for the glory of summitting these peaks but to rescue other climbers who are in dire need of help. Viesturs doesn't sugar coat things. He presents facts and draws upon first hand experience. I found the book to be intense, exciting and thought provoking. I kept thinking to myself that if I were ever a mountaineer I would only want to climb with a true professional like Viesturs. If these awesome peaks interest you then give this book a read. You won't be disappointed.

I have often quoted Ed Viesturs famous saying, "Reaching the summit is optional. getting down is mandatory" on my several desert four-wheeling and canoeing / kayaking adventures. I just finished reading this book by my favorite mountaineer quite late from my own expectation, but better late than never I would say. This book is a must read for mountaineers and for those who are interested in pushing their physical and psychological strength to the maximum, no matter what they are attempting to do. In this book, Ed Viesturs has captured the history of all expeditions to K2 in detail reinforcing it with his critique of many good and bad decisions taken that led to either a triumph or a tragedy. Many of his advice are applicable to other areas as well. The one take away that I have for myself is that never use all your energy to get to the destination for you need lot of it to return to safety as well. The expeditions of 1938, 1939, 1953, 1954 (the first conquest), 1986 (tragic summer of 12 deaths), 1992 (his own) and 2008 (the deadliest season) have been covered in such a manner that it kept me absorbed throughout. I admired Ed on his accorded his accolade to the unsung heroes - the sherpas of 1939 and 2008 expeditions and the Hunza of 1954 expedition. Another point to note, he never writes the first summiting of Everest as of Hillary's. He always writes it of Hillary and Norgay. Towards the end of the book, Ed introduces us to himself as a person, his wife and three children. He finishes the book by according deep respect to the Mountain saying, "No mountain in the world has a more interesting history. And even though the cynics feel that the second-highest mountain is about to be tarnished by the kinds of commercialization that have tainted Everest, I am optimistic about the future of K2. The mountain remains an ultimate test of the ambitions of the best climbers of the world. The gold that gilds the holy grail is still intact".

Bel libro

K2 has a reputation so the climbs and disasters are well documented.

Livro me surpreendeu positivamente, não esperava esse nivel de informação sobre a longa historia do K2. Leitura obrigatoria para que montanhistas .

Detailing several climbs, anecdotes, celebrities and personal opinions made this book a gripping read. The author writes it in a very readbly way. It includes some photos too. Good book!