Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner)
Product ID: 96225086
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art. Review: Surfs up! - oh what a beautiful language english can be if written by a an author as such. I have been surfing in a little town called Mahabalipuram , India for the last 5 years. And i have done some crazy mad stuff since my surfing life too over and therefore i could relate to this book so well. Williams madness for surfing a teenager and as an adult is portrayed so beautifully. Loved the nomadic Journey he embarked upon, which seemed like a deja vu in many sorts for me. But what stands out is the language. So well written. Review: parts of the story reminded me of surfing around Australia when I was young in 1979-81 - Very erudite & eloquent for a surf addict, author's words captured the experience, danger and fear of surfing big waves, even is 100% comprehensible for non surfers!
| Best Sellers Rank | #222,509 in Books ( See Top 100 in Books ) #2 in Surfing, Windsurfing & Water Skiing (Books) #201 in Active & Outdoor #617 in Travel & Holiday Guides (Books) |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 10,653 Reviews |
E**N
Surfs up!
oh what a beautiful language english can be if written by a an author as such. I have been surfing in a little town called Mahabalipuram , India for the last 5 years. And i have done some crazy mad stuff since my surfing life too over and therefore i could relate to this book so well. Williams madness for surfing a teenager and as an adult is portrayed so beautifully. Loved the nomadic Journey he embarked upon, which seemed like a deja vu in many sorts for me. But what stands out is the language. So well written.
T**N
parts of the story reminded me of surfing around Australia when I was young in 1979-81
Very erudite & eloquent for a surf addict, author's words captured the experience, danger and fear of surfing big waves, even is 100% comprehensible for non surfers!
P**H
An average read.
Not great, just surfing only. Maybe due to my lack of knowledge of the sport, didn't found it inspiring.
D**L
Sublime
You don't have to be a surfer to enjoy this. Hop on the board and go for the ride.
S**A
Super read
Great book, well written, about Finnegan's single minded almost obsessive passion for surfing and discovering new big waves..
S**E
Must Read for Every Wave Rider!
As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave. From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic. One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring. What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean. I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!
S**H
Offshore Enterprises
William Finnegan has written the rarest of books, a measured very literary account of a surfing life. Or with the surfing and everything about it as central to his account of that life. As a lifelong surfer myself all of his descriptions, feelings, fears and joys rang true. Descriptions of some of the earliest days at now legendary destinations and surf breaks bring great pleasure. A must read for surfers and an opportunity for non surfers to understand the drives and experiences of this watery tribe. Finnegan skilfully plaits together elements of his working, personal and surfing lives across oceans, continents and decades.
M**N
A truly honest wisdom and exceptional telling
What an incredible read. I say this having had to look up no end of words and references throughout reading the book and even with my lack of education I was never deterred to continue reading. What a unique, honest, wise and unapologetic account from the author and as a surfer who has always been distinctly average to fundamentally crap much of what he describes are unattainable dreams for me but I loved hearing about it. I loved hearing about what are now world famous breaks when they were just discovered secret spots or local worshipers only. This autobiographical referential history of surfing makes a telling that I would liken to the first time you hear a truly great album. I may re-read it but the profound feeling of balance and awe that I have been left with is truly astounding and something for which I am truly grateful to the author. thank you Mr Finnegan and for expanding my vocabulary too 🤙🙌
S**I
Il mito del surf non muore mai!
Il surf non è uno sport, è un mito, un poema epico tramandato da libri e film come Point Break o Un mercoledì da leoni e questo libro è un altro capitolo di questa epopea che crea eroi capaci di cavalcare onde che non si possono nemmeno immaginare. L'autore ripercorre tutta la sua vita da ragazzo ad adulto, sulla tavola, anzi le tavole che lo accompagnano in giro per il mondo da Bali alle Hawaii. Scritto bene, leggero ma con dettagli interessanti per chi ama il surf anche solo da spettatore o fotografo o appassionato. Uno dei più bei libri mai letti sul surf. Solo un dubbio...saprà ripetersi l'autore su altri temi che non riguardano il surf con la stessa passione?
B**E
superbe livre passionnant
un vrai régal, très bien écrit, passionnant, donne envie de partir vivre des aventures et permet de s'évader où qu'on soit
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