XBee Module to DIP Adapter for Arduino (2mm to 2.54mm)

I have to agree with Steve from CT on the bottoms of the headers being hollow and the Xbee not seating all the way down if not careful when soldering, not a big deal but kind of a pet peeve to make everything flush, but it is only really used for prototyping unless you use it to permanently mount to a perfboard.I don't like how the pins when the headers are soldered in are 0.7" apart. It would be better if the pins were centered on 0.6" to allow inserting wires easily on either side when centering the adapter on one column of the breadboard. Right now you can get to one side or the other easily for prototyping but not both without bridging all rows from one full column to another.

This is a great little adapter board that converts the pins on an Xbee module - which don't fit into a standard breadboard - to the 2.54 mm (0.1") spacing required by a breadboard. This is simply an adapter - no components (like a voltage regulator, etc) on it whatsoever.There are no instructions so it looks like a simple soldering job and it is however you need to be careful - the 2mm XBee pin headers themselves are built differently than what you are likely used to. The female ends that the XBee plugs into are hollow (as they should be) but are OPEN at the bottom instead of being sealed. This mean when you have the adapter board upside down to solder the male ends of those pins to the PCB board and if you use too much solder it can actually run inside the female part of the pin and prevent an XBee from being completely inserted. I've also read of people having their XBee plugged into the pins while soldering (to keep them square) and not being able to pull their XBee out because its now soldered to the socket! I threw out my first adapter after learning the hard way but my second one went perfect. Best advice - don't be nervous or apprehensive - simply use minimal solder on each pin of the header and it will be fine. Heat the pin and just dab the solder to get a nice solid bead on the top and do not keep driving solder down into the PCB hole because it will end up in that female part of the 2mm pin.Note this is not an issue with the 2.54mm pins since the they are sealed at the bottom, just the smaller pins for the XBee.

These are horrible. The solder flows into the sockets, which makes them unusable. I am quite experienced in soldering. I got two of them, and neither of them was usable after putting them together.

It works well and holds my wifi card nicely. Be carfull when soldering, use low heat because the plastic melts easily and the pins become misaligned.

This is a great little adapter that allows the XBee radio to fit perfectly on a breadboard. With a soldering iron, 2 minutes of time and no overzealous soldering, you'll be ready to plop your radio into the breadboard and start prototyping away. I bought two, one for the sending and one for the receiving radio and it went together perfectly. There are no instructions but if you're already using XBee and a breadboard, then you're obviously more than qualified to solder this without directions.

If you are working with 3.3v then this is the perfect way to adapt your XBee module to work with standard 0.1" breadboards.This board does not have a 3.3v regulator or logic level conversion so if you plan to work with anything other than 3.3v, you will either need to add your own or look for an adapter board that has these components.

Since you have to solder this up, it isn't for everyone. It's really simple to do that. The only issue is that if you aren't too careful, the solder can and will work its way through to the female header for the xbee and make installing the xbee difficult.

These are pretty good parts for mounting an XBee module. All you have to do is solder the pins on and you're set. The XBee sat very tight on the adapter so it needed to be gently rocked back and forth to be removed. It might be just how a soldered it, but I needed a tight fit for my use case so it was exactly what I needed.Note this has no level shifting circuitry on it so make sure to use a 3.3V microcontroller and 3.3V sensors if you are connecting them directly to the XBee otherwise you will need another component to do the level shifting from 5V down to 3.3V.