Murphy Bed Kit Queen Full Twin Size Spring Lift Hardware

Superb quality components. Bought the DIY version (mechanism only). the instructions are first-rate. The only wrinkle was that I was building this into a converted closet in a 1913 home, so nothing in the house is level. The instructions assume a freestanding cabinet built on a level floor and square walls in a new construction house. BUT IT CAN BE DONE! Adaptations: -- When drilling for mechanism holes, use the TOP of the board as your frame of reference since that HAS TO be square to make the thing work. You'll have to do some math. The bottom can then be shaved off or shimmed up marginally to allow for a sloping floor. -- When drilling holes for the bed frame stiffeners and the cleats, go ahead and countersink the holes properly. The 1¼-inch screws don't set flush if you use seasoned wood like I did, so they didn't get the grip needed. I actually added a stiffener near the head of the bed because it seemed weak there. Just don't get in the way of the three holes for the mechanism. -- Used fewer springs than the instructions called for...AND WATCH THE VIDEOS. My springs were super tight and stiff and did not go on easily. When I got eight on each side (Queen size mattress) it was so stiff the bed would not pull down at all. Ended up using five a side and it moves easily. -- Now, back to measuring. The clearances are tight with the measurements in the instructions. Luckily my brother is a bit OCD so our pieces are right on. It is SO critical that the two mechanisms are mounted exactly at the same levels, because if things are off even a small amount, it cants the frame, and it will not fit properly when going back into the cabinet. Where the legs go in, you have like 1/16th clearance on each side. Because my house was even more warped than I allowed for, there were several adjustments and trial fittings over a week of experimentation until I got it right. -- I actually made my cabinet carcass deeper than the instructions because I had the space. That allowed a shelf over the headboard for charging phones, etc. I also put in electrical and lights because why not? This will allow space for the pillows to be stored in the cabinet with the bed up. All the instructions have measurements from either the face or bottom of the side pieces, so you can go deeper pretty easily. However, that messes up the cut list and layout they include. Don't forget to make adjustments. -- Trimmed out the front of the piece to look like built-in cabinets and drawers. Pulls for the upper "doors" are the handles to open the bed. The baseboard in front of the unit is 5½-inch colonial profile, and it is sitting in front of the face of the case. It opens fine, and when it closes the face snugs up to the back of the baseboard and you can't tell it's not attached.

Its great! we have installed it 2 month ago and we didn't face any issues.

Overall solid kit for DIY. Make sure you double measure the holes for the lift arm. It's a pain to fix later. You will need 2 people for final assembly (I made a Queen). Order extra 1 1/4 screws and be sure to not rely on recommended drill sizes for self-purchased hardware. Directions are not super detailed but we're sufficient.

We needed a double bed in our tiny approximately 8 X 10 guest room. A murphy bed was the best alternative as it enables us to use the space when a bed isn't needed. My husband was able to build a lovely bed using this kit for the mechanical parts. An issue caused by rough handling by the shipper was quickly remedied by Wilding Wallbeds. I'm giving Easy to Assemble four stars because it was not a quick and easy project and also, per my husband, a large clear area is needed to build this bed. We're glad that we ordered the parts required from a solid American company rather than ordering the cheapest ones on the market or buying a finished murphy bed.

After researching a half dozen different manufacturers and multiple models from each, I purchased the S-100 Murphy Bed Mechanism from Wilding Wallbeds, and overall, I’m pleased with my choice. Full disclosure: I am an Architect and Contractor by trade and have a good deal of experience building with wood, metal, and other materials, so I am not a typical weekend DIY person. That said, this project took about 25 hours or so to complete from start to finish. I also have a full wood shop, so I have the use of tools like a table saw, drill press, and large workbenches which made the process go faster. I chose this product because I like the spring mechanism better than the gas-shock / spring option that many other manufacturers use. I built a queen-size bed, and the S-100 comes with springs for the King size, giving me flexibility on the weight of the mattress, weight of the materials I used, and how much force it will take to open and close the bed. From personal experience, I also like springs better than gas struts as I think they’ll last. Other products also require the gas strut to be exposed on the inside of the cabinet when the bed is down, which looks tacky and anyone using the bed would constantly bump into it. The product itself works exactly as advertised. The lifting mechanism is heavy steel with a powder-coat finish and the various brackets are sturdy as well. The feet are heavy gauge steel pipe with a nice rubber foot at the bottom. The bed opens very easily and closes smoothly. As this is a DIY kit, the Cut List & Plans document that comes with the kit is a crucial part of the product, since the cabinet and bed frame dimensions have very small tolerances for the hardware to work properly and safely. This document is why I give the product 4 instead of 5 stars. I downloaded the S-100 cut list and plans from the manufacturer’s website so I could get a head-start before the kit arrived. The document was dated “Rev. 11.23”. The document that came in with the kit was dated “Rev. 3.24”. It was frustrating that their website did not have updated instructions. Their website and instructions also do not include a recommended weight or thickness for the mattress as they heavily market their own line of Murphy bed mattresses. If a company is going to sell just the kit, then that information should be easy to find. While most of the instructions were accurate and relatively easy to follow, with lots of illustrations, they seemed disjointed, and wordy and used a constantly changing font size and often. The most frustrating issue with the instructions was the mistakes with regard to hardware and tools. As an experienced woodworker, I could see the mistakes and adjust as needed, but a true DIY homeowner would have been very frustrated if following the instructions precisely. Here are some specific examples: 1. Items to source locally (They don’t come in the box) a. “200 Feet – 13/16” Pre-glued Iron on Edge Tape sourced to match wood type”. Iron-on-edge banding still has a thickness to it and the instruction measurements do not take this into account. As both placements for the mechanism are to 1/16 of an inch, you must be aware of the dimensional differences. b. The bolts on hardware card #20 for attaching the mechanism to the cabinet are listed as “Flat Head Slot Machine” They are in fact Allen head bolts as supplied. This is a very common error throughout the instructions as the list of tools on page 16 does not mention any Allen wrenches but does incorrectly show a #2 square tip bit that is not used anywhere as all screws and bolts were Phillips, Allen or hex headed. Multiple pages show hardware for each step with a square bit right next to a Phillips head screw. It’s an embarrassing error. c. The quantities needed for screws (to be provided outside the kit) and listed in each step were incorrect. The parts list shows 200, 1 ¼” wood screws as required, however using the hole patterns suggested throughout I used about 280 screws. Page 19 also shows a total of 18, 90 deg. brackets, but there were 28 of them in the package. Additional hardware like the panel guards on page 22 were not the same shape as those supplied. d. Pre-drill diameters for the various wood screws were also incorrect. Given the shaft diameter of most 2 ½” wood screws, the suggested pre-drill hole size of 9/64” leaves almost no wood for the threads to bite into. 2. There were also numerous areas of the instructions that lacked some steps to ensure a flat bottom to the bed frame (such as properly connecting the face panels to each other). I used a biscuit joiner and wood glue, but most people would not have that. Overall, I was very happy with this product, and I would recommend it to anyone looking to build their own Murphy bed, but I would hope that the manufacturer takes a closer look at the instructions to fix the small but glaring errors and make them more friendly for the less-experienced consumer.