Why do I need to shield my flash to bounce light? To prevent direct flash from striking your subject being photographed. If your subject can see *any* light emanating from the flash, they will be hit by this direct light. Many photographers don't realize that when they turn the flash head to bounce the light, they are still blasting direct flash at the subject being photographed. This in effect ruins the beautifully bounced light. What zoom setting should I use to bounce light? Use the longest zoom setting (200mm or 105mm) available on your flash. Can I add a piece of white or reflective material inside the eclipse to reflect light outward? You certainly can experiment with this, but just understand that if your subject can see *any* light emanating from the additional reflective material, they will be hit by this direct light. Why not just use a snoot to block the light from the subject? A snoot will block too much light. For example, without a snoot, the bounced light on the ceiling might be a 5-foot spot; with a snoot, 1 foot. Also, the lip of a snoot can reflect light (direct flash) especially when the inside is silver. In addition to that, the weight of some snoots can cause the snoot to break free from the detents that hold your flash head at certain angles. Why not just use a flag or flags to block the light from the subject? You can, but you will have to manage it. If your light or subject moves, you will have to make sure the flag is still working. You can use multiple flags, but you will still need to manage them if the light or subject moves. You will need to be careful how the flags are used, so that they don't block any more light than necessary. In addition, the weight of all this can be too heavy for the flash head to hold up.
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