Champion 2-Piece Toilet Parts Tank-to-Bowl Coupling Kit, Toilet Repair Kit

works exactly as expected

Parts arrived quickly and were a perfect fit. I had tried to reuse the old parts after I had to pull a Champion 4 out to replace the closet seal. Big mistake. One of the tank to bowl seals leaked when I put it back on, so ordered a new kit. All the parts matched the original parts exactly, except the bolts were stainless rather than brass. Wouldn't have had a problem with brass, but nice to see something that will last a long time. One note of caution. The tank to bowl seal is quite thick (as the original one was when the toilet was new) so it take a bit of time to install correctly. If the bolts are not tightened slowly and equally it is easy to crack the tank. Instruction are pretty clear that came in the kit. DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Work them down until the tank just touches the bosses on the bowl making sure the tank does not rock and stop. Nice thing is that now there are no leaks!

Perfect fit, no leakage, all hardware included.

I purchased the American Standard Champion 4 Toilet to replace a 1981 toilet in a 4 bath house. I was disappointed that it developed a tank leak after 2 years, none of my older toilets leak. A small bowl allowed me to put off repairs for 4 years. This a a lengthy job so I recommend you buy all the normal “maintenance” items. Before you start turn off water to bowl and flush. Mark the low water level in tank and wait an hour. If your toilet wall valve is leaking you should replace it. Turn off water to whole hose and repeat test. Still leaking call a plumber. No leaks? This is a dirty job. Surround toilet with old towels. Lots of buckets too. One pre-filled with water. Grab tank and rock, Tighten toilet to floor bolts as needed. Wet vac water still in tank or bail and towel dry. You will need deep wall sockets to remove tank bolts. Tank bolts are super long. Loosen and tighten these bolts evenly to avoid cracking tank. Remove supply line. I bought a new flush valve that comes with the giant wrench you need. Take a picture or two. Good time to replace the top cap on the fluid master fill valve. All the gaskets on my tank were shot even the ones that were not leaking (yet). Wipe gasket surface clean on tank and bowl. The tank to bowl gasket in this kit was thicker and a different material than original. It was molded for the giant tank nut.. Generic gaskets are round inside. The bolt gasket on my tank was leaking- see corrosion. When you are tightening the tank bolts use a screwdriver on the top to stop the bolt from turning, if the bolt turns inside the gasket it will cut a groove in the rubber and leak. Tighten each nut a few turns at a time so both are tightened evenly. Grab tank and rock, tighten, and repeat until tank is tight. I slid a scrap of paper to gauge if tank was touching bowl on both sides evenly. Do not over tighten. Install handle chain and new supply line and fill tank with a bucket of water. No Leaks? Flush and adjust chain as needed. Turn on wall valve. No Leaks? Replace towels with dry newspaper that Is easy to see if toilet has a slow leak. Check for leaks after 24 hours. Recommended parts This kit, Flush valve, fill valve top, wall shutoff valve if needed, new supply hose. Supplies Rubber gloves, paper towels, buckets, deep well socket kit, needle nose pliers for chain, flat screwdriver (big), sharpie.

American Standard Champion 8 year old 1.6 flapper -- 4149A Tank. This green tank to bowl gasket was an exact match to the old one which was a 4 inch. Fit over the new valve -- a large 4 inch nut. The only issue I had was tightening the bolts to much on one side and it leaked. Saw a larger gap on one side of bowl -- loosened the nuts and started again turning them one at a time so the tank sat evenly on the bowl. Also, when positioning the flush valve be sure to set it up so the fill tube is not over the one bolt. My issue was not repairing the handle sooner as it had slipped outwards and was pulling on the chain/valve flapper at an angle and wore it out and it quit working one morning. The older 1.6 (more water) Champions can also use the 1.28 flush valve (less water). There is a Champion Kit that includes both flush valves -- the 1.6 has a dome shape piece under/bottom the flapper lid valve.

All the parts in this kit were OEM quality and they fit perfectly in this Champion 4, model 2018, with 4266 tank. The instructions were clear.Of course, I also bought valve kit 738565-424-0074A, and a new FluidMaster water regulator (float), new hose and new lever. ALL the seals and other fittings in this tank are new. Just as a plumber would do. And sure enough that stopped that annoying, infrequent tank refill.I'm convinced that in my case the nut that holds the flush valve kit to the tank was not tight enough. With the instructions that came with that other kit, I knew exactly how tight to turn that nut. So, replacing all the parts, and following all instructions to the letter, yea that fixed it.

Purchased this seal kit for an American Standard toilet tank-to-base when the generic seal I bought from a big box store leaked almost immediately. This seal is made to fit the large plastic nut that holds the flush valve in the bottom of the tank. The generic seal didn't have the spot for the nut actually embossed on the inside like the A/S one did. I think that made the difference when I put the correct one in by fitting the nut very closely.Some YouTube videos that I watched to try to figure out why my first try leaked mentioned that it's really best to use the actual A/S seal instead of the replacement ones sold. It worked for me... not leaking after 3 weeks.I wasn't sure about the seals that went on the tank bolts but they also worked just fine. It can be a little difficult to get the nuts started in the position you need to be in to be able to see what you're doing. Took a few trys but eventually I got them on. Definitely need a deep socket to get them evenly tight.

Kit 241 Tank to Bowl Kit, American Standard 738756-0070A, worked well putting Am Std Toilet Model 4266 back together after replacing the flush valve assemble. The kit was delivered without the two nuts with captive washers. I found a phone number for Am Std 1-800-442-1902 and told them the problem. I only waited on hold about 5 or 10 minutes and a knowledgeable lady at Am Std agreed to send out the missing parts and because of my tight schedule agreed to expedite them. It was a refreshing, pain-free telephone experience and makes me want to use American Standard again. The rubber 'grommets' are used like washers that go in from the inside of the tank. I stuck the grommets through the tank holes first, then poked the bolts through them. The rubber grommets expand when the bolt pokes through them and I didn't use any plumbers putty like some videos recommend. After tightening the nuts just the right amount - not too lose - not too tight - the bottom of the tank was leak-free. The nuts take a regular deep well 1/2 inch socket and you need an extension on that for the 4266 tank. Working alone, I wanted to make sure I got the bolts in the tank lined up with the holes in the bowl when I sat the tank down on the bowl. I marked some wall tape with visual aids = line up marks and a 'distance from the wall' tape loop and that worked well for hitting the holes.

It was a perfect fit, so that the toilet wouldn’t leak.

This worked perfectly. Thank you to Amazon for coming through again when local businesses didn't carry this item.

Worked well enough.

Perfect fit for my Champion toilet.

High quality replacement like the original.