SUPERNIGHT LED Light Strip Dimmer, DC12V-24V 30A PWM Dimming Controller for Dimmer Knob Adjust Brightness ON/Off Switch with Aluminum Housing

Good dimmer used it to dim cob led strip , just put it between the driver / transformer and the lights , worked very well , they also have this with a remote control if required.

Easy to wire. Made of metal Works and looks very good I recommend for truckers light boards

Good. It does what promises to do.

Good quality item with easy to wire terminals. The adjustability is great and handles a heavy load up to 30 amps. I'm using it to light some off road LED pod light but I do not have any spec on the lights (typical China stuff :( ). There is one BIG thing to note depending how you use this dimmer. It varies the negative side of the circuit. The application I utilized made this a challenge trying to use it in a HI/LOW light circuit. I preset the dimmer to be set for a dimmed lights on "low beam" switch mode. In "high beam" switch mode bypasses the dimmer and applies the -12v to the lights. The HI/LOW switch was designed to switch the +12 dc for the LED switch status; I had to get creative to make it work. If you just use as a LED dimmer, no issues, it will work great.

I don't need the really high end of the current range, but I tested that in the 3A range for 12V and 24V, it works reasonably well. Construction feels solid and terminals are good. Dial movement is smooth and does not resist being turned quickly. Some notes: - PWM frequency is approx. 680 Hz and does not change for different voltages or duty cycles. - Seems to be more efficient at 12V than 24V. - e.g. when comparing the power draw when dimming 12V and 24V, the 12V seems to be consistently lower draw as a percentage of the normal max draw when not using the dimmer. Further, when the dimmer is at full power, the 12V configuration is slightly under max power while the 24V uses 5-10% more power than when not using the dimmer at all. - The dimming knob reaches min and max power before the end of its rotation limits. This means that once 0% power is reach you can still turn left a few centimeters with no further reduction and the same is true on the max end of the dial. This extra play at the far left and right of the dial makes you think the dimming is not linear at the extremes, but actually, when you are turning past 100% or below 0%, nothing is changing. This also leads some reviewers to think that it dim lower than 30% when in fact it correctly dims down to 1%, then the additional travel once reaching 0% is misleading. - There is no on/off switch "click" at the bottom of the dial and at 0%, there is sometimes a fractional load depending on the device. Use a separate discrete switch. - Quiet - Doesn't seem to heat up for 3A or less. (didn't test higher)

This lamp had a flaky, mostly-broken touch switch on it. I couldn't use it with a smart outlet because its default setting was OFF when plugging it in, so turning on the outlet didn't turn on the light. It was also hard to turn on manually. When I finally found the right spot on the chassis to touch, it didn't remember my last brightness setting and came on full blast. Lame. Enter: this dimmer! I yanked the touch switch and controller PCB out completely, connected the 4 wires (+/- IN from the power cable, +/- OUT to the light rings) to the terminals on this dimmer, and stuck it to the lamp with a double sided adhesive pad. Bada-bing bada-boom! Now the light comes on to wherever I last physically set the knob as soon as I turn on the smart outlet. The knob is a great size to be easy to use without fumbling around whenever I do want to adjust it, and now I have continuous dimming from zero to 100%, instead of 3 janky settings. $12 to upgrade/revive an otherwise nice lamp. I'm no electrician, but it was a super easy mod. The terminals are stable and just big enough to be easy to work with, the knob feels solid and turns smooth, light doesn't flicker, and the box is nice and light for easy mounting. Easy-peasy.

Ok I'm not an electronics expert. I built a drag race practice tree off of dc truck blinkers. Long story short they were insanely bright to the point it felt like flash burn after using it for a while. Got this dimmer since it was like 10 bucks. Figured why not. I was a little disappointed when I got it because it controlls through the ground not the hot side. This is what it is, my tree was controlling the power side. So I kinda gave up on it. Then I had an epiphany and figured out how to isolate the common ground the lights use which is the entire frame and was able to get this to work which was exciting. After messing with it it really does act like it's just a rheostat. But I did use my voltmeter and it says its operating at 1.20k hz. So that I think means it is indeed pwm. But across the terminals the volt meter reads just like a rheostat with battery voltage at max setting and it just drops voltage down to about 3 volts before the LEDs just shut off due to low voltage. For me the sweet spot on brightness is right in that very bottom range. My understanding is that with pwm you should still be getting battery voltage across the terminals and that the frequency should be changing not the voltage. But regardless it does get the job done. I may try another brand and see how it acts.

This dimmer switch operates a 60" run of Kichler 24V dimmable tape light and it performs perfectly. I get no humming or flicker at any brightness setting, but this tape light brand is quiet with another dimmer switch brand so it may be the LED pulse width modulation is very compatible with dimmers. Illumination range is roughly 5% to 100%, with a smooth transition. No flickering. The installation is absolutely straightforward and stripped wire locks into the connections with ease. I think it took me more time to mount the dimmer to the wall than to connect the wires.