Dragon Skin 10 Medium - Addition Cure Silicone Rubber Compound - Pint Unit

This product is versatile: it can be used as both a casting and molding material, which is nice if you'd like to keep your materials down to a minimum.It captures details perfectly! I would recommend brushing in a thin layer to start, and pouring in a thin stream from as high as possible. Without doing so, this silicone does form a lot of air bubbles. Another solution would be to use a vacuum chamber (pro or DIY, doesn't matter). If you don't have access to a vacuum chamber, a little trick I've picked up is to add a couple drops of Mabeline oil-based liquid foundation to your Part-B before mixing with Part-A. It will add color to the silicone, but the mixture will have significantly less air bubbles. I'd say roughly 75%-90% less. Huge difference! There are dozens and dozens of foundation colors, so I'm sure you could find a "close-to" white if you plan on mixing a different color than skin tone.To add color, always mix with Part-B before adding Part-A... There are a number of things you can use to color silicone, but the best choice depends on what you are using your silicone for. As a general rule of thumb: avoid water-based paints. Oil and water don't mix. The best things you can use to color silicone are specialty silicone paints (I think Psycho Paints is one, but double check that), powdered pigment, or oil paints. All you need is just a little bit. The silicone is semi-transparent, so a little goes a long way.Another trick, if you're using the silicone for make-up effects purposes, is to use gel food-coloring. It works very well, and retains greater amounts of translucency. The downside is that you will have a bit of color residue that can stain skin or clothes, but not very much. It easily washes off of skin. Clothes are another story. If you're in a pinch and can't find gel-food coloring, you can also use the standard liquid food-coloring, but be aware that it will stain a lot more. For either method, it's best to thoroughly wash your silicone piece with dish-soap and a non-abrasive cloth or brush (a soft tooth-brush usually works) after you de-mold it, and before you apply it to your actor. This will dramatically reduce the residue that could cause the piece to stain.If you're getting silicone to cast stop-motion puppets, this is a no-brainer: get Dragon Skin! It's strong, it stretches easily, it squishes easily, it always returns to it's shape, it can be colored easily, it can be shiny or it can be matte, and it's semi-translucent so it works great as skin. If you want to dull the shine down to a more natural matte finish like real skin just dust some talc powder on your cast after you pop it out of the mold. Let it sit for a little while (maybe 15-30 minutes) then dust off the excess. You could also then wash the puppet after another hour or so if you want.For Molding and casting: Universal mold release is good (just make sure it covers silicone and whatever other material you are using for the mold or the cast). An incredibly inexpensive alternative is plain old vaseline (petroleum jelly). Just paint on a thin coat, let it sit 30min before pouring your mold or casting material, and it works beautifully. I've used it often with silicone and resin. Both materials absorb the oil, so cleanup is moot.Anyway, that's my 2-cents... This is high-quality silicone. Dare I say "the best brand out there"?

This was really easy to use (albeit extremely messy) for making resin shaker molds. I used a resin-coated 3D print to make the mold. It took about 2.5hrs to cute, which is a lot less than was advertised (hopefully I mixed it right?). It's very flexible and pretty strong!

Worked great for taxidermy molding and has great tensile strength

When I purchased this product it was the first time I had ever tried to cast and mold a larger piece. It wasn't too expensive and based off of other reviews, it seemed like a good product. I am very pleased with how my final piece came out because of this product! I started off with a small test by casting/molding just a finger. It was pretty sticky and had quite a few air bubbles. However, I read that adding foundation helped with air bubbles, which I ended up using when I cast/molded my entire arm and this small trick made it a hundred times better! I also used baby powder to avoid stickiness. By testing out the product prior to making the final piece, and doing some research, the final project came out nearly perfect! I'm so glad I went with this silicone rubber because as a beginner, it was very easy to figure out. I would definitely recommend this product because it's a great price and does exactly what it says it's going to do! Will definitely be purchasing more in the near future!

This was exactly what I was looking for in terms of making my dice molds. It's sturdy yet pliable and I know it'll hold up through multiple pours before showing sogns of wear and tear. I haven't had any issues with my pours and having bubbles, even for a molding newbie this was easy to use. Pot life is perfect, and I can get almost 3 full cap molds out of 1 kit!I do not own a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone prior to pouring, so I rely on my pressure pot and at 45 to 50psi I get bubble free molds every time!

Super thick A&B. LOVE THE DEMOLD TIME, 5-hrs. ✔️ The potlife, a life time 😂 20 minutes. This Dragon Skin 10 medium has so much tensile strength and rebound. ✌️

This is very good quality silicone to make skin simulations with. I am just not 100% convinced that it's work the price over any other silicone. This stuff can be sort of expensive at $40+.

I use this for making dice molds. Works great, haven't had any issues