Blue Demon BDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod 1/8" x 18" 1 Lb Tube,

Better late than never, right? Here's the deal.. I saw this stuff advertised somewhere. Maybe on YouTube? Anyway it caught my eye and I had a project I was looking at that could probably make use of something like this. Well, that project never developed and this tube of material (rods) hung on my spare parts rack for 5 years (2020 to 2025). These days I also do YouTube videos.. and a current project involves an old Harbor Freight 63cc generator restoration. (Why.. you ask? Because it's a hobby and I enjoy working on them.. I've bought, restored, and either sold or given away a half dozen of these things in the last couple of years.) So anyway, the current project is another of these little 2-cycle beauties that had one of the feet broken off. The bolt hole was still there that holds the recoil/air shroud in place but someone had gerry-rigged a piece of rusty angle iron as a foot. It worked, I guess but didn't please me. SO I fabricated a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum in the basic shape of the missing casting. So finally to the point.. I used some of this stuff to braze the fabricated part onto the existing casting. You'd have to look up Old Geek With Tools on YouTube to find the video (hint.. I haven't posted that one yet but will some time in the next couple of weeks). Anyway, this stuff is awesome. It worked perfectly for the entire repair process.

This low-temperature aluminum brazing rod is economical, easy to use, and effective (IF you follow the directions). I used this rod to seam braze 75 aluminum joints (300 total brazes) that had broken on an aluminum pontoon boat canopy frame that had collapsed during a storm. Most of the joints were 1" x 1" aluminum square tube" with heavier duty/guage rectangular aluminum at the base of the frame. This fluxless aluminum rod worked well for this purpose, but only when the instructions were copiously followed, which, in essence, are: 1) Secure your joint (vice grips, clamps, etc.) and copiously clean all aluminum surfaces to be brazed with a large new stainless steel ("SS") brush (buy one large brush and 2 or 3 small brushes), 2) get a good "handheld" torch (I tried several and found "Mag – Torch" the best) with a hose (sold separately from the torch for about $20) that connects the torch to a "map gas" cylinder (hotter than propane and available in all home improvement stores), 3) frequently use your small stainless steel brush on the area to be brazed during the heating and brazing process to remove impurities ("oxides"). if you don't brush, your braze will be significantly weakened or may not adhere at all. 4) frequently test the heat of your metal by running the aluminum rod over the joint area. When the rod begins to easily melt (from the heat of the rod against the hot metal only- absolutely not from the direct heat of the torch) deflect the torch flame away from the joint and begin "tinning" the joint ( tinning = applying a light coat of melted aluminum from the rod to the surfaces you abraded with your small stainless steel brush). 5) Put the flame back on the joint for 3 to 5 seconds to be sure that the tinning adheres, then remove the torch to let the tinning coo/solidify for 5 to 10 seconds. 6) Use your stainless steel brush again to clean the oxides from the tinned area, 7) reheat the joint to where your aluminum will again melt the rod and apply a generous coat of melted aluminum to the tinned area of your joint, 8) finish the joint braze with about 4 or 5 seconds more heat from the torch to increase final adherence of the melted aluminum to the joint. 9) If you see impurities (oxides) in your braze, don't be afraid to run your small brush through your braze to clean out the impurities to strengthen your joint. This "brush through" may require you to melt a little more aluminum on your joint but the joint will be stronger for it. In sum, secure the work, use new stainless steel brushes to frequently clean work, metal not torch must melt aluminum brazing rod, "tin" all brushed areas, apply final braze coat, and always finish with more heat for adherence. Practice on a few joints before doing your finish work. Everything will seem very awkward at first as you juggle the torch, the brush, the rod, and the correct heat. Within about 5 to 10 joints you will feel like a professional. If you cut corners though and don't get the work hot enough or don't frequently keep your joint clean of the oxides with the brush your brazes will look pretty but won't hold and your time will be wasted. Good luck!

I've used it to braze aluminum together and as long as you follow the instructions it works well. Not a lifetime weld, but certainly strong enough for normal uses. I did try to braze a stainless nut to a piece of aluminum plate. Making a homemade wing nut. Needless to say it didn't work well. I melted the nut through the plate on the first attempt. It did stick on the second attempt, but under torque the braze broke loose. Not the product's fault. It isn't designed for that. Bottom line, it works well for the intended purposes.

These are way bigger than I was expecting way bigger they are huge compared to what I was expecting. This didn't just oxidize and flake away like the little wire ones do. I refreshed my hole with the drill bit after heating it about half way up then let a small piece burn off and drop into the hole and I tested it occasionally once it started melting it only took one stick to fill it completely but I fed another in and stirred to displace any floating impurities and scraped the surfaces inside the hole and on the outer surface as well to see how well it would stick to the old undrilled metal and it stuck great to it as well only way it could be better is if it were a welding rod also or if it melted at a lower temperature the first time then after cooling would somehow have a higher melting temperature so I wouldn't have needed to get the engine as hot. I'm just hoping the heat hasn't affected it in anyway but I don't think so. This is great stuff it makes me want to fix something else with the other 18 rods that's left . One complaint is the container was busted at one end and I'm not sure if some were taken out before packaging but if it is supposed to have 20 in it then they are all there. These things are way bigger than expected! I didn't realize that the package wasine until I read the label after not finding the package I was expecting them I was thinking what a major waste of a big long box. Nope it was about the right length.

Works good for basic alloys but I can't get it to work on a 6061 repair. Working with an oxy setup on 1/8 inch 6061 - prepped, verified temp, and applied "post heat" to control cool down rate per instructions and the joint keeps breaking with very little force. Tried several types of joints and they all failed. Glad I was working with test material.

Despite the package not sealed neat and proper, all 22 rods were there. I say the word were because within 20 minutes of receiving them I put 1 to work on a couple things to test, they work just fine. I'm not taking stars off because the package it came in doesn't mean anything, it's the fact the product is there and works. Good value for the money if you have a need for that many rods. Just a little edit and it doesn't look very good because my butane torch wouldn't settle down, but the rods are good enough to join 2 pieces of side can together so you know it's a good product...

I have a cast aluminum handle on the power feed of my milling machine. It broke in half an I used a similar rod from a common 'freight' tool store to repair it, but the joint failed soon after in normal use. Even though I had used a small stainless wire brush while trying to tin the cast surfaces, there were large areas that had not tinned. I figured correctly that there was not enough flux on those rods. With the Blue Demon rods, they seem to have more flux, and rapidly tinned the surfaces without the fuss I had to use before. After tinning the ends, I put the parts in alignment on a fire brick, clamped them down, and reheated the parts, adding enough braze to have it stand proud of the surface. Then it was a job of filing and sanding the extra braze off, leaving a slightly gray line. I have now tried to stress the handle to make it break again and it is holding great. Kudos to Blue Demon for a superior product!

The rod did melt at the lower temperature, but it will not stick if your material is even slightly different in thermal property... I was using with aluminum stock, 3/4 x 1/8 flat to 3/4 square stock, 1/16th walls... not happening. I tried every possible heat application, as well as trying to pre flux coat as the ads say... nothing would give a good weld to both pieces of stock... although it often did form a good bound to the square stock, likely because it was so much thinner, which had to be ground off... this was the biggest waste of $20 I have had in a long time.. a "Zero star" item if there ever was one... save your cash

De las 3 marcas que e probado en este tipo de producto, esta es con la que mejores resultados e tenido y con la que menos e batallado a la hora de estar aplicando.

It’s not working . Not good Don’t buy. I lost time and money.

It does take some skills and knowledge to do it properly ( watched some YouTube tutorials) , but it can be done with minimal tools, in my case for a simple 3 mm aluminium box , it did the job as I needed, the weld feels strong, I can't damage it by bending the box.

Billig ( gebraucht ,sehr gut) Prime geliefert ,dauerte etwas länger da das aus England kam ( zoll..) Wenn man weiß wie man es machen muss *ein top Produkt sehr schöne schweißnaht, dicht. Ich habe damit meine regenrinne am Haus repariert. * das Material muss warm gemacht werden ( z.b Gasbrenner) und nicht die schweißstange!! Öfters testen ob das Material warm genug ist ,in dem man mit der Elektrode darüber reibt, damm Flamme weg und mit der Elektrode zu machen

I watched a YouTube video comparing all the aluminium solder. This one rated pretty well while being the second cheapest. That in its self is a green light to buy. I soldered angles 3mm thick onto rectangular tubes 50mm by 25mm, 3mm thick. I also soldered the miter junction of two of those tubes with brackets around them. I soldered a small item too and small things are so much easier. My advice is to file fillets on the corners to get more bonding surface. Sand or file the joints just before assembly, and heating. Rub the joints that are molten with the rod or a screwdriver to release more oxide. If you can pop rivet the pieces together, even one pop rivet will make it so you don’t have to clamp it together. It will drip so expect this and don’t work against gravity if you can. Your first joints will probably look ugly. That roof rack all the angles on the ends and the corners are soldered. The pop rivet are insurance and later ones were done using pop rivets to “tack weld” it in place. The ends of the now I beams were JB Welded and pop riveted in place.