Blue Demon BDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod 1/8" x 18" 1 Lb Tube,

This low-temperature aluminum brazing rod is economical, easy to use, and effective (IF you follow the directions). I used this rod to seam braze 75 aluminum joints (300 total brazes) that had broken on an aluminum pontoon boat canopy frame that had collapsed during a storm. Most of the joints were 1" x 1" aluminum square tube" with heavier duty/guage rectangular aluminum at the base of the frame. This fluxless aluminum rod worked well for this purpose, but only when the instructions were copiously followed, which, in essence, are: 1) Secure your joint (vice grips, clamps, etc.) and copiously clean all aluminum surfaces to be brazed with a large new stainless steel ("SS") brush (buy one large brush and 2 or 3 small brushes), 2) get a good "handheld" torch (I tried several and found "Mag – Torch" the best) with a hose (sold separately from the torch for about $20) that connects the torch to a "map gas" cylinder (hotter than propane and available in all home improvement stores), 3) frequently use your small stainless steel brush on the area to be brazed during the heating and brazing process to remove impurities ("oxides"). if you don't brush, your braze will be significantly weakened or may not adhere at all. 4) frequently test the heat of your metal by running the aluminum rod over the joint area. When the rod begins to easily melt (from the heat of the rod against the hot metal only- absolutely not from the direct heat of the torch) deflect the torch flame away from the joint and begin "tinning" the joint ( tinning = applying a light coat of melted aluminum from the rod to the surfaces you abraded with your small stainless steel brush). 5) Put the flame back on the joint for 3 to 5 seconds to be sure that the tinning adheres, then remove the torch to let the tinning coo/solidify for 5 to 10 seconds. 6) Use your stainless steel brush again to clean the oxides from the tinned area, 7) reheat the joint to where your aluminum will again melt the rod and apply a generous coat of melted aluminum to the tinned area of your joint, 8) finish the joint braze with about 4 or 5 seconds more heat from the torch to increase final adherence of the melted aluminum to the joint. 9) If you see impurities (oxides) in your braze, don't be afraid to run your small brush through your braze to clean out the impurities to strengthen your joint. This "brush through" may require you to melt a little more aluminum on your joint but the joint will be stronger for it. In sum, secure the work, use new stainless steel brushes to frequently clean work, metal not torch must melt aluminum brazing rod, "tin" all brushed areas, apply final braze coat, and always finish with more heat for adherence. Practice on a few joints before doing your finish work. Everything will seem very awkward at first as you juggle the torch, the brush, the rod, and the correct heat. Within about 5 to 10 joints you will feel like a professional. If you cut corners though and don't get the work hot enough or don't frequently keep your joint clean of the oxides with the brush your brazes will look pretty but won't hold and your time will be wasted. Good luck!

Better late than never, right? Here's the deal.. I saw this stuff advertised somewhere. Maybe on YouTube? Anyway it caught my eye and I had a project I was looking at that could probably make use of something like this. Well, that project never developed and this tube of material (rods) hung on my spare parts rack for 5 years (2020 to 2025). These days I also do YouTube videos.. and a current project involves an old Harbor Freight 63cc generator restoration. (Why.. you ask? Because it's a hobby and I enjoy working on them.. I've bought, restored, and either sold or given away a half dozen of these things in the last couple of years.) So anyway, the current project is another of these little 2-cycle beauties that had one of the feet broken off. The bolt hole was still there that holds the recoil/air shroud in place but someone had gerry-rigged a piece of rusty angle iron as a foot. It worked, I guess but didn't please me. SO I fabricated a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum in the basic shape of the missing casting. So finally to the point.. I used some of this stuff to braze the fabricated part onto the existing casting. You'd have to look up Old Geek With Tools on YouTube to find the video (hint.. I haven't posted that one yet but will some time in the next couple of weeks). Anyway, this stuff is awesome. It worked perfectly for the entire repair process.

I used these zinc-alluminum alloy brazing rods when I had to make my own flashing around a skylight. I used regular galvanized flashing, and these alloy brazing rods did the trick. They will braze both aluminum & zinc. But aluminum flashing is too thin & melts too easily. Galvanized flashing works OK. Here are a few tips: Flux is unnecessary, but If the surface is dull or dirty, brush clean with a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush. Regular wire brushes won't work. Prepare each surface by "tinning," which means to melt a thin coating of brazing alloy on the surfaces PRIOR to actual brazing. This is critical for a good strong joint. A regular propane torch is sufficiently hot, but a broader flame works better than a pencil-tip flame. Always heat the metal & let the metal melt the brazing rod. Don't melt the brazing rod with the flame itself. The trick is to keep the temperature around 750 F. Too hot and the metal can scorch & warp. Too cool & the brazing rod will not melt or bond. Use clamps to hold surfaces together. This alloy material will fill small gaps, but it works best if the gaps are tight. Don't be in a hurry. Practice on scraps first.

After reading the many bad reviews, I was skeptical but figured for 20 bux I'd give it a shot. It works. Aluminum is tricky even with a TIG. When using gas, you have to tin the surfaces first or it won't work... end of story. It's not the same as sweating solder to a copper pipe. It will flow in like solder but if you didn't tin it first, it wont stick. Remember guys, brazing and soldering IS NOT welding. It did take some fiddling to figure it out. I used up half a stick just learning the technique but once my slow brain clicked into gear, it became easy. If I can do it, pretty much anyone can. I'm just barely smart enough to know I'm not the sharpest bulb in the crayon box. Anyway, I was impressed with the results of my 1st experiment, attaching an aluminum sign stake to a piece of scrap 1/8 inch bar stock using a cheap 30-year-old burnzomatic propane torch. After it cooled I put it in the vise and began the torture test. The weld did not fail; the aluminum did. It was also a very pretty puddle. Looks count! After the first experiment, I successfully attached aluminum bar stock to a galvanized fence post. Then an old cold forged aluminum bicycle crank to a random two stroke cylinder head. This stuff is cheap, works great, and since you're using low temps, it's unlikely you'll destroy a project if you mess up. Have fun! Go nuts! While I got good results with propane, it took time. Mapp gas would make your life easier.

Works good for basic alloys but I can't get it to work on a 6061 repair. Working with an oxy setup on 1/8 inch 6061 - prepped, verified temp, and applied "post heat" to control cool down rate per instructions and the joint keeps breaking with very little force. Tried several types of joints and they all failed. Glad I was working with test material.

These are way bigger than I was expecting way bigger they are huge compared to what I was expecting. This didn't just oxidize and flake away like the little wire ones do. I refreshed my hole with the drill bit after heating it about half way up then let a small piece burn off and drop into the hole and I tested it occasionally once it started melting it only took one stick to fill it completely but I fed another in and stirred to displace any floating impurities and scraped the surfaces inside the hole and on the outer surface as well to see how well it would stick to the old undrilled metal and it stuck great to it as well only way it could be better is if it were a welding rod also or if it melted at a lower temperature the first time then after cooling would somehow have a higher melting temperature so I wouldn't have needed to get the engine as hot. I'm just hoping the heat hasn't affected it in anyway but I don't think so. This is great stuff it makes me want to fix something else with the other 18 rods that's left . One complaint is the container was busted at one end and I'm not sure if some were taken out before packaging but if it is supposed to have 20 in it then they are all there. These things are way bigger than expected! I didn't realize that the package wasine until I read the label after not finding the package I was expecting them I was thinking what a major waste of a big long box. Nope it was about the right length.

Despite the package not sealed neat and proper, all 22 rods were there. I say the word were because within 20 minutes of receiving them I put 1 to work on a couple things to test, they work just fine. I'm not taking stars off because the package it came in doesn't mean anything, it's the fact the product is there and works. Good value for the money if you have a need for that many rods. Just a little edit and it doesn't look very good because my butane torch wouldn't settle down, but the rods are good enough to join 2 pieces of side can together so you know it's a good product...

I was hoping to repair some cracks in my Aluminum patio Chairs but as hard as I tried to make this stuff work it just plane failed, and just to make a point I'm no stranger to Brazing or Plumbing and know how important it is that the areas to be Solders or Brazed to be free of Dirt, Grease/Oil or Paint which is why I completely removed all the paint well a past the cracks using a wire brush on a Drill and Dremel down to the bare shinny Aluminum and cleaned the area to be repaired using Degreaser. I used MAPP Gas and even though the rods melted to the surface and filled nthe crack and puddled nice and level once I removed the clamps the arm of the chair fell off and the melted rod fell off in a big chunk, I even cleaned the area again with Denatured Alcohol and used Aluminum approved Flux and still the weld would not hold. I know some on here have had Good Luck using this stuff but for some reason it would not work on my Chinese made Coleman Aluminum Patio chairs, I feel my only other option will be to take the chair to a shop and have it TIG welded.

De las 3 marcas que e probado en este tipo de producto, esta es con la que mejores resultados e tenido y con la que menos e batallado a la hora de estar aplicando.

It’s not working . Not good Don’t buy. I lost time and money.

It does take some skills and knowledge to do it properly ( watched some YouTube tutorials) , but it can be done with minimal tools, in my case for a simple 3 mm aluminium box , it did the job as I needed, the weld feels strong, I can't damage it by bending the box.

Billig ( gebraucht ,sehr gut) Prime geliefert ,dauerte etwas länger da das aus England kam ( zoll..) Wenn man weiß wie man es machen muss *ein top Produkt sehr schöne schweißnaht, dicht. Ich habe damit meine regenrinne am Haus repariert. * das Material muss warm gemacht werden ( z.b Gasbrenner) und nicht die schweißstange!! Öfters testen ob das Material warm genug ist ,in dem man mit der Elektrode darüber reibt, damm Flamme weg und mit der Elektrode zu machen

Soldadura perfecta más duro que el aluminio . Me sirvió para rellenar un agujero y hacer una rosca para el tornillo de escape de un cilindro y quedó mejor que de fabrica