Weewooday 8 Pcs Microwave Oven Door Switch Replacements Part KW3A Normally Open Normally Close Switches, Compatible with Most Microwave Ovens

I have a Fridigaire microwave, it has three switches. This is what I learnt.When doors open (the natural state of the switch).The top is NO, the middle is NC, the bottom is NO.When the door is closed, all 3 states reversed (the switches' button are depressed by levers)The top is NC, the middle is NO, the bottom is NC.NO = always Open, NC = always Closedin my case, the top switch was stuck, I thought they rigged it to be always closed (wrong), I open it up and it sprang back up. If the button is always depressed, then that's the bad switch. Check the others for continuity, you should hear a clicking sound.in a pinch and you don't have replacement yet, you can try cleaning and sanding it between the contacts. Use a razor blade or small screwdriver to ply it open. If you already have the replacement, You can change only that one, but since you took it apart, might as well change all three. The contacts on mine were black, it's been over 10 yrs.TIp: don't trust the diagram with the legs on the switch, sometime, it might not match the natural state of the switch. Half o the NO switches cane with the diagram showing NC. You can test with the multimeter with Tone (continuity), NC with beep w/o pressing the switch, NO open beeps only when you depress the switch. The other way is look at the switch. With the black button on top-left, if the protruding contact on the right is closer to the top, it's NC, if it's closer to the bottom, it's NO.If you don't feel comfortable, ask a pro. Unplug the microwave, and don't touch the capacitor, it's charged, even when unplugged. it's the thing that looks like a battery, with two terminals next to one another. in mine, it was on the far right side. Take your time, don't break any of the plastic holders that secures the switches. Good luck.

For less than 9 bucks after taxes and fees and a bit of elbow grease I have a working microwave again. This is a much better outcome than having to buy a new one for 300 bucks.My microware would not work when the door was closed, but would start immediately with no input from the control panel when the door is open. How Whirlpool could manufacture a product so that it fails in such a dangerous way is beyond me, but I digress...As others have mentioned 2 of the switches in this package complete the circuit to provide power when the button is down and 2 of them do so when the button is up. There is no visual indicator as to which is which, but that isn't really the problem of the seller - from what I've seen all of this KW3A part are like this. So your first job as an amateur do-it-yourself microwave repair person is to figure out which is which. On my microwave the lowest of the 3 switches was a blue wires to the door light which should be off when the door is closed / button is pressed so I was able to use it to determine which switches were which. Then you replace each switch with the same type as before. I suppose a manual could be helpful in that regard but I didn't end up needing to track one down. Good luck and if things don't work right on the first try, do yourself a favor and continue to troubleshoot and be sure you put the right type of switch in each place. Good luck!

The only thing that I was confused about was the drawing on these switches. I could not tell which ones were NO and which ones were NC. They all have the same drawing but there indeed were 2 of each type. You will have to figure it out by comparing it with the broken switch. Other than that, the product quality looks great and the switches are easy to install and fit perfectly.

When I opened the door to the microwave, the turntable and the fan would start up. Using Google (who knows everything) I determined that one or more of the 3 microwave door switches was bad. FYI, its impossible to find a reasonable repair service for a microwave, except for the maker of the unit who wanted $110 to diagnose the problem (what I already knew but would not waive the charge) and $45 for each of 3 switches and a labor charge of $60. Who would hire them???? Sure, many people would go buy a new unit - but not me! I purchased your switches for the princely sum of $10 and installed them myself in 7 minutes. And, now my microwave operates normally again!

My microwave started tripping a circuit breaker and I assumed the worst. I read up that a failed limit switch on the door (there are three) can cause it to cause a short to ground and trip the breaker. So I pulled the face of my microwave off and started by pushing on the buttons. Top switch (Primary) clicked liked it should, the middle (monitor) didn't and was "squishy" when pushed, the bottom (secondary) clicked as it should. So I knew the monitor switch was bad, but to verify I used my multimeter and verified. Removed the monitor switch, looked up the part number on Amazon and found these switches. There were quite a few choices, but I picked this brand as it was the same as what I was removing, GE uses them so figured I'd stick with them. As expected it clicked in, and once I put the microwave face back on it works and no longer trips the breaker. Also, with this coming with two "normally open" and two "normally" closed switches I will have back ups should any of the switches fail in the future.Extra infoNormally Open - continuity is not allowed through until the switch is depressed, when pressed it will "close" the circuit as like it was plugged in. i.e the door is closedNormally Closed - continuity is allowed through until the switch is pressed, which will then "open" the circuit as if it was unplugged. i.e door is open

Works really well on my whirlpool.

everybody is happy now! microwave is like brand new.

Worked perfectly. RV ovens take abuse bouncing down the road and that surely caused my switch to fail. New switch required removing my microwave which may or may not be the same for everyone.