eARC 4K 60Hz Audio Extractor Converter 18G HDMI 2.0 ARC Support - HDCP 2.2 - Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR, Dolby Vision Supported (HDA-927)

I purchased a new 4K TV (98” TCL) but I am still pairing it a non-4K non-eARC receiver (Denon AVR-5308ci), so I needed an eARC extractor to get the audio from the TV to the receiver. After researching various recommendations on the AVS Forum, it sounded like the recommended devices were the devices made by ThenAudio and HD Fury, which run the int $250-$400 range. I purchased the ThenAudio Zone2Pro from their website, but it performed poorly. Half the time, I would get no signal, or the signal was unstable and would exhibit drop-outs if it was anything other than 2 channel stereo. The problems were worse with Apple TV, but also my Sony 4K Ultra HD player. Worst of all, sometimes when the sound was not properly outputting, I would suddenly output very loud tweeter-blow-out white noise that would generate complaints from everyone in the house. I didn’t know if the problem was with the ThenAudio eARC extractor, the TV’s eARC implementation, or if eARC itself is just an unreliable inconsistent technology. The only way to tell was to get another eARC extractor. I didn’t want to buy the HD Fury, so I decided to buy the best reviewed eARC extractor on Amazon, which was this OREI, at less than 1/5 the price of the audiophile Zone2Pro. I didn’t have high hopes for it, but I’m glad I bought it. It worked exactly the way it was supposed to, in a very consistent manner, without any of the problems that I had with the Zone2Pro. Rock solid reliable eARC extraction, without any of the speaker-damaging white noise or extraction failure, and at 1/5 the price. This may not work as well for others, but for,my combination of equipment, it worked perfectly, and way better than the ThenAudio Zone2Pro. I don’t know how well the HD Fury product works, but given the much lower cost of this OREI product, I would certainly start here with the OREI. Edit: I reached out to ThenAudio to see if there was an issue with the Zone2Pro. I did flip a DIP switch on it to turn off Dolby MAT. I let you know if that helps with the white noise surges and drop-out. Still, the OREI is way cheaper and achieves the desired result.

I couldn't find a clear cut answer so hopefully this will help. If you are looking for a audio extractor that will help with the DTS issues of a LG OLED and SONOS arc combo, this product will not work. Unfortunately your only option is the HD Fury. I'm sure this product works fine for older tv's and audio receivers so don't take offense to my review with that. Just trying to help people with the same issue I have.

I have a 2021 86" LG UP8770 TV. It has two HDMI 2.1 ports, and it will pass through Dolby Digital Plus and Atmos. I have an older Denon AVR-4311 receiver. It will not pass through 4K video. I connect everything directly to the TV for the best picture quality. I was stuck with running an optical cable back to my receiver. Subsequently, audio tracks were downgraded to Dolby 5.1. This is process worked for me... 1. On the OREI device, flip the EARC switch to "On". It was switched to "Off" when I opened the package. 2. On the OREI device, flip the EDID switch to "Out 2". It was switched to "Out 1" when I opened the package. 3. Run an HDMI cable from your TV's EARC port to the "Out 1" port on the OREI device. 4. Run an HDMI cable from the OREI device's "Out 2" port to one of the inputs on your receiver. I chose Sat/Cable. 5. The OREI device came with a micro USB cable, but it did not come with a power block. I used the included micro USB cable and an old phone charger to power the OREI device. 6. I went into my TV's audio settings and changed the audio output to Earc. I also made sure Earc support was toggled on in the TV's advanced audio settings. I immediately started getting Dobly Digital Plus surround sound, and, as an added bonus, I can now control my Firestick Max with my Harmony remote. The Harmony sends signals to the TV, and the TV relays them to the Firestick via the HDMI connection. The Harmony wouldn't control the Firestick previously. The Harmony remote is infra-red. The Firestick Max is bluetooth. I wasn't expecting this added benefit of adding the OREI device. Several reviewers have stated that the OREI device needs to be unplugged from its power source and plugged back in periodically because it stops working properly. If that happens, I will try connecting the included micro USb cable to one of the TV's USB ports or one of the USB ports on my receiver for power. That should cause the OREI device to shut down every time I power down my system and restart when I power up my system. Hopefully it won't be necessary, but this workaround seems like it could work. Update: I have been using the device for months without needing to unplug it. Update: It is now 2/5/24. I've had this for two years. I'm now using it with an 83" LG C1, the newest 128GB AppleTV, and an old Denon AVR-4311 receiver. It hasn't skipped a beat. Make sure you set your TV audio to "Passthrough" for the best sound if you are connecting to a receiver.

I got this to eARC enable my Marantz SR7010 AVR which has working ARC support - to my new Hisense U7K w/ eARC HDMI 2.1 support. With ARC you only get up to 1.5Gbps audio; ATMOS 5.1 core, DD, DTS, and a lesser quality version of ATMOS. Modern BD and UHD based movies primarily use DTS-MA, TrueHD ATMOS which are only available on eARC equipped systems (18-48Gbps bandwidth) I left both dip switches "On" for eARC and EDID (since my AVR supports all current audio formats) and after testing various "ultra hdmi" or "hdmi with ethernet" cables I was able to get up to DTS-MA 7.1 on my AVR - but TrueHD 7.1 would not work. Just to make sure I ordered new HDMI 8K ethernet 2.1 cables and that not impact the result. I used the eARC/ARC port on the TV to the adapter OUT 1 port; AVR non ARC port (HDMI 1) to adapter OUT 2 port. When testing I found I had to completely turn off and unplug the TV, AVR, and this adapter to ensure any change to the setup would be picked up. Once I figured this out I went through a methodical process testing various combinations of adapter and AVR/TV HDMI settings. The TV says it's outputting "MAT" which is TrueHD/ATMOS but all I get is silence via Plex app on TV. I had to switch to the embedded 5.1 audio track to get any sound. Beyond the audio; CEC mostly worked. Turning off/on of the AVR does not always work. Turning off the AVR after initially using it and turning it back on usually resulted in no audio which as only correctable by restarting everything (but not restarting the adapter). HDMI compatibility can be hit and miss and this is mostly due to the optional nature of the standard - format-wise; vendors can pick and choose what and how they want support various capabilities and that can cause issues. The older the HW the more likely issues can arise - it's just the nature of technology. To be sure I bet this can work just fine for folks who use sound bars or other non true home theater 7.1 (and/or Atmos) setups as the most they need is a low bit rate 5.1 audio track - but for those that can take advantage of all a 7.1/ DTS-MA HD/Atmos, etc. formats has to offer it may fall short for you depending upon your equipment. In reality for the price, ease-of-use, and size it's probably worth a try; it's just going to be YMMV

Took a little time to configure just right. But I now get 4K HDR video AND 5.1 surround sound with my Google Chromecast Ultra and outdated (1080p video) surround sound receiver. The trick for me was to switch BOTH switches to the off position (it is switched on by default from factory). I also had to change the audio settings in the Google Home app and set to surround sound instead of auto. Edit: Actually need to lower the rating because this setup adds some noticeable latency when playing games.

This seemed a bit clunky to set up, since it uses DIP switches to set the function. The manual is tiny and the print so small it was hard to determine the settings. Still, once I got it configured correctly this worked in my application: sending audio only through HDMI/ARC from a 4K projector (with a 4K Roku stick on one input) to a now-15-year-old receiver. I'd just upgraded the projector from 1080p to 4K, and if I fed the video from the receiver end I could only get 1080p at the projector. Using this extractor I can maintain 4K video and send the audio to the outdated receiver (still getting 5.1 or Dolby there) without having to invest $500+ in a new receiver that is eARC compatible. So for $40 this saved me a $500 upgrade. It took a bunch of messing with to set up, but once it was working it seemed consistent. Hopefully it's indeed a set-and-forget solution to my problem.

I had to write this review in case others had the same exact frustrating situation I did. First off, this product perfectly fixed my issue in my AV receiver not having eARC. My son bought a new Xbox Series X and we bought a new LG C1 TV to take advantage of the 120 Hz video the Xbox outputs. Unfortunately, I have an older Onkyo TX-NR646 receiver that does not have HDMI 2.1 so plugging the Xbox into the receiver directly would not allow me to get the 120 hz. So in order to compensate this, I had to run the Xbox HDMI directly to my TV which has HDMI 2.1 inputs. I then ran an HDMI from the eARC port of the TV to my receivers ARC port to get the audio to play. This worked fine but the problem with this is since my receiver only has an ARC connection, it won't support the higher quality audio feeds such as Dolby Atmos, even though the receiver itself supports it. In researching online for ways around this, I could either buy a new receiver with HDMI 2.1 or get one with eARC. These are both expensive and not feasible. In researching a bit more and doing a search for "ARC to eARC converter", I found this product here on Amazon. The description and FAQs said this product would do exactly what I needed so I ordered it. While the directions were not super clear on how I needed to hook it up, I figured it out. The setup is the Xbox HDMI still runs directly to the TV, another HDMI runs out of the TV eARC port to this product's "Out 1 eArc" port (do not put any HDMI's into this product's "Input" port). Then I have another HDMI coming out of this product's "Out 2 Audio Out" port which plugs into one of my receiver's HDMI inputs (pick any other than the ARC port). I made sure the product's eARC switch was set to "On" and the EDID switch doesn't really matter. I simply change my receivers input to the same where the HDMI cable is plugged in and BOOM!....full Dolby Atmos, TrueHD, etc. can now be heard from my receiver from both my Xbox audio as well as my TV's built in apps such as Netflix, Prime Video, etc!!! I was so excited this worked that I had to write this review. I hope others attempting to solve this frustrating problem will use this product because it worked perfectly!!

This does absolutely nothing. I connected a Roku Ultra to this, The way they did in their own demo video and The Roku would only output 720p 60 to my 4kProjector! The audio out to my receiver was only in stereo! The Roku did a test and said the Orie was only HDMI 1.4 compliant and didn't support HDR or 4K. The projector is an HDMI 2.1 and can do up to 4k120Hz, the Roku 4K60, and the same for the receiver.

I have a PS5 as my main gaming machine as well as blu-ray player, I also have a 5.1 surround system (full towers and satellites and sub) with Denon X2300W receiver. I recently purchased an LG C3 and I am now running the PS5 straight into the TV whereas on my old TV that could only do 4k60, I just ran it into the receiver. This meant I could get all the higher definition audio mixes from blu-rays such as DTS-HD and DDTrueHD etc. Because I am now going into the TV and my receiver is ARC only, I could no longer pass these signals through so I was only getting core DTS and DD. Because I don't want to upgrade my receiver at the moment, this device solves my issue mostly. I can now run my TV to the receiver and pass through all the full mixes (this TV has DTS support so I am able to pass everything through it). It auto switches when necessary and acts as if I plugged the PS5 straight in. It also passes through CEC correctly meaning I can still control the volume with my TV remote. NOTE: If you use this, you need to plug it into an HDMI input on your receiver, NOT THE ARC INPUT. The minor caveat is there is no audio sync. In filmmaker mode with a blu ray on the PS5, the audio was happening before the picture so I had to add some delay in the TV settings. I do believe this has saved it to the filmmaker mode preset though so switching to game mode doesn't seem to be affected (this is good). The only other thing worth noting is that when skipping scenes on a blu ray, it takes a second or two for the sound to kick back. I believe when skipping, its not sending this data so it needs this time to feed that over. But once its playing, its fine. I'm only day 1 but so far, this solves my issue until I get a receiver with eARC. Will update this review if anything changes or if I find any other problems.

Audio not working but TV is working without sound.

Firstly, a massive thanks to the anonymous reviewer from Canada who on 24/12/2021 said "then you plug the HDMI from your TV E-ARC output into the Orei E-ARC output. I know this counter intuitive since it's labelled output". That one liner saved me so much hassle. The instructions are not clear with that, and it's also labelled wrong. But now that I have this box, it works perfectly and I love it. My older Pioneer VSX-LX60 is an older but excellent amp - supports all the major codecs including DD Plus, DD TrueHD and DTS-HD. It's an amazing amp and I love it. Excellent sound, outputs 130wrms at 8ohm and 170wrms at 6 ohm. So you can understand my frustrations, as newer TVs need eARC to have decent quality audio, and my amp does not have this. A new amp that has the same audio quality, as well as earc, would be expensive. This amazing little box from OREI lets me extract the HD HDMI audio stream and pass it directly to my amp, retaining the full codec to the amp, allowing my Xbox and other devices to plug straight into the TV. I leave it off most of the time as I usually just watch the news or whatever without my amp on. But if I want to watch an action movie and make my neighbours hate me, this does the trick. Super happy and highly recommend for anyone who wants to get a bit more life out of their existing amp.

It saved me from buying a new sound bar! The setup: Nvidia Shield for TV and movies, TV: Samsung S90c, sound bar: Yamaha YSP 5600 sound projector. The Yamaha has amazing sound, support all surround formats and Atmos, but doesn't forward HDR and compromises the amazing S90c video quality. If I connect Shield -> TV -> Yamaha, I lose the Atmos, DTS etc sound, as the TV doesn't forward the higher audio formats neither thru eArc nor optical. If I do Nvidia -> Yamaha -> TV, I lose HDR, as the Yamaha doesn't forward HDR: both not good. This device splits the sound to the soundbar and the video to the TV and allows to use both great products' advantages - great audio with all the formats by the sound bar and fantastic looking HDR on the Samsung S90c! And it does it for very reasonable price. Great job, cheers!

Ho sdoppiato il segnale HDMI 4K 60Khz HDR in uscita dalla AppleTV - un'uscita collegata all'ingresso del proiettore, l'altra uscita all'input di questo Audio Extractor per ottenere l'eARC da collegare all'ingresso della soundbar. Trasmettendo un video con Dolby Atmos non si sente nessun audio dalla soundbar. So che il resto dell'equipaggiamento funziona bene, perche' se invece di prendere il segnale eARC dall'Audio Extractor lo prendo dall'uscita eARC del proiettore, l'audio si sente dalla soundbar. E confermo che lo sdoppiatore che uso e' uno sdoppiatore "vero" - il segnale un uscita si vede in contemporanea sulle due uscita.