California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax, 12 oz. Paste (05550) | Ultimate Wax System Step 3, Delivers Deep Shine & Long-Lasting Protection, Enhances Richness & Depth for All Paints

That you see a piano in the video won't matter. It's from 1948 and it's the original lacquer--essentially the best black automotive paint of the time. The video is quite long. It will give you an idea of how once you start using this stuff on something with a series of logical panels you can plan on going as long as you keep on going... Be certain to have plenty of EDGELESS microfiber. Even the threads on the edges of ordinary microfiber will abrade the wax before you get in buffed down nice and hard on the surface. Always be very very very careful with powered buffers! I used the SZFIXEZ Electric Spin Scrubber that I reviewed here but you will need the REPLACEMENT BRUSH SET TO GET THE EDGELESS BUFFING PAD! See my review for more info and ask Amazon about getting some of those buffing pads to buy individually. The rotation speed seems great for this application--very little chance of hurting a surface especially a modern automotive clear coated finish. (It's not practical for whole cars though--at least I don't think it would be it's just not made for that much and the battery...) What matters is that you have PURE stuff here. That's likely why you couldn't find it in any of the auto stores--they just sell the diluted stuff. The "Ease of" five stars come from experience. This product is indeed easy to remove and use but you have to prepare properly first. And preparing means cleaning. Lots and lots of cleaning. That's why this is STEP 3 in a process. I'm not sure of their particular process steps but they're ALL ABOUT CLEANING and prepping the surface for this PURE NATURAL HARD WAX. Unlike cars--well certainly most of them--the piano has a satin finish. That's not easy for lacquer and you'll notice it's certainly still there underneath that luster. It was literally sanded by drum devices as part of the finishing process. The lines are still there in the right light but they mainly just break up the gloss. That's why you'll see me finish the wax application with straight instead of swirling strokes. In later coat(s) I do swirl--everywhere to the right music--waltz ;) but this one is getting in the grooves and a perhaps touch heavier than the later ones as well Be certain your surface is UTTERLY CLEAN before applying! The finish in this case was effectively "like new" as it had been completely stripped of old wax, fully cleaned, camouflaged and very lightly polished using the lightest diminishing abrasives. The application pad I'm using is stained--not dirty. Your application pad should never get dirty. Ever. Keep it in the can where it belongs. But if it gets dirty they don't last through too many cleanings. This wax is applied VERY LIGHTLY. It dries quite rapidly but you have a generous window of time to remove. Properly applied--and this is not difficult if you keep the application pad similar to what you see--you won't have "white line" problems--that only happens if you're using WAY, WAY too much wax or if you're using something full of cheap synthetic waxes, abrasives, solvents and, perhaps, a bit of carnauba. In the video you'll notice that at the end of the application step that I wipe in lines instead of the normal swirls. This is because I wanted this coat to get into those old sanded grooves. The next coat(s) are swirled on. Waltzing along... The pad in the video is slightly blackened due to the reversible nature of my camouflage and earlier use. It's permanent unless I wash out all the wax with pure turpentine as that's the only thing that will touch that "stain" and it stains anything--seemingly permanently--to come right off with turps. Some weird stuff they used to use back then when other things were pure as well--amazing how well it keeps all those years--very same stuff an errant servant (or guilty master with a touch of conscience) would use. It even came from the "Amazon" of the day--in a way--Monkey Ward as I used to call it as a little boy. Note how I apply bits of wax to the pad and then rub it in with my hands--essentially melting it into the pad. The working pad is ever so slightly "dampened" with wax and ordinarily you use very light pressure to apply as you are spreading such a thin coat. It takes quite a lot of time to get a pad ready for working so that also explains why that bit of black staining didn't bother me. When the pad is used on a car it should be spotless. And stay that way. If you get a hint of dirt on that pad, STOP. Go back step(s). You have not prepared properly! Keep cleaning! AFTER IT GETS DIRTY THE APPLICATION PAD MUST BE FULLY CLEANED OR DISCARDED.

I have read the negative comments on this wax and wondered what was going on with this product. I had used it for many years in the past and didn't have these crazy problems. I ordered a can and received it an hour ago. Wanted to try it immediately. My car is kept clean, so I just did the hood and rear hatch. Washed those areas and dried as usual. On opening the can, yes, it was cracked and a little crumbly around the edges. That's normal for this wax, as it says on the instructions inside the cover. This is a hard wax, not a soft past as some products are. A little goes a long way. Don't try to scoop out blobs of the stuff like a soft paste. On to the waxing. I applied it to the rear hatch. Used a CLEAN round sponge applicator pad. Goes on very easy. Used small swirls. I let dry to a haze as directed. Used microfiber towel to buff off. PERFECT. I washed the hood. Dried with microfiber. Applied the wax the same way as the rear hatch. Buffed off by hand with microfiber towel. PERFECT. So, what's the problem with all these negative reviews? Well, I can only give the following suggestions: This product is WAX. JUST WAX. It will NOT clean ANYTHING off the paint. So your paint must be spotless before applying this product. If your paint has water spots, stains, or other issues, don't put this on the car! You will seal all of that dirt onto the paint. To get the paint clean first, wash with car soap and then dry with microfiber towel. Use a cleaner. I used Mother's micro polishing glaze. But you can use what you like to get the paint CLEAN. Apply this product with a sponge type applicator to one panel at a time. ONE PANEL. Let dry to a haze. Buff off by hand with microfiber towel. I found microfiber towels make a huge difference in your ability to remove the excess wax. Turn the towel often and go over the panel a few times so as not to miss any spots. This is not hard to do, but takes a little time. As to some here who've said it won't come off, my guess is the paint was still dirty and should have been polished first. If you're using this product as a cleaner, you are making a mistake. Use cleaner type products BEFORE applying this wax. I would not use it in direct midday sun. I use it in late afternoon sun and it's fine. The panels I just did on my car have a beautiful shine and was not much work at all. 20 minutes maybe? When the directions are followed, you can't go wrong with this product. When washing the car between full wax jobs, I use Mother's spray wax as I dry the car off. Puts on a light, shiny protection that looks great and is very easy to do. Hope your car looks great!

One best out there highly recommend and worth every penny!!!

Quality

This is my first time using this product and though I found it difficult to spread evenly, once buffed out it did a super shine job. First off let me state that the product had a disclaimer inside of the can that stated some cracking and drying of the wax was normal and did not effect usability. I tried to use the small pieces that had separated from the big piece. This proved to be extremely challenging to spread lightly and evenly as per the instructions that said to use as small amount of the product as possible. When using the product from the main chunk, it did work better. I have concerns about the consistency of the product throughout the can, as I can see crack below the surface, through an area that chipped away in the center. One crack runs through the center from side to side and appears to be cracked to the bottom. The wax in the center of the can is more workable than the wax at the edges. Nearer to the edge the product is dryer and rougher. Time will tell how this use will be, I have only used it enough to do three vehicles and I will continue to use this product. I purchased another Mothers product also, it is the wax with the cleaner in it. Its' consistently smooth and easy to apply evenly. Can't help but wonder if there is something about the age of this wax that is making it dry, cracked and chipped.

Wow was I impressed with the 2 step polish! I think it made all the difference to use both steps as the 2nd step is a micro step that took care of quite a few surface scratches. I have a 15 year old BMW 325i that I love have have cared for over the years. In the past I swore by the P21S Polish and wax but I wasn't happy with the amount of wax I went through last year so I thought I would try something new. Since my car is a 2002 I try to polish the paint every couple of years as needed but I had to work to get the oxidation marks out and the scratches that should have buffed out never did but this product took care of my paint issues once and for all. The trick is doing the 2nd step, one step before wax didn't do it but once I did the 2nd step the paint was smooth to the touch and slick. I had some circular scratches I don't know how I got on my bumper, looked like my son might have done it with his bike, they came right out! The wheel wells flare out in the front and attract scratches and marks all the time, they are gone. I hand polish and wax and take my time. It wasn't fun doing it 3 times but wow was it worth it! I have a ton of wax to do out SUV great value. Also the polish took out the tar that I normally can't wash off and struggle to get rid of. Very easy process. I am a convert! Love this product line!

The smell takes me back to when we used to wax our bikes as kids. I've been using a cleaner wax on my vehicles for years. I actually bought this pure carnauba wax to use on my bathroom fixtures. I was told it would keep the water spots from forming. So, I ran out of my cleaner wax and used this carnauba on my car. It left a better finish than what I was using. And this can will last quite a while.

As usual, mother’s products are freaking awesome There’s a reason they’ve been around ever!

Great wax protects my cars paintwork. Thankyou

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This is a fantastic product that gives a great shine, that lasts for months. It is easy to apply/remove and doesnt streak

As advertised ....this is the longest lasting paste wax I have ever purchased , its why it is my go to . Note this not one of those easy on easy off waxes . This wax takes work for the application and removal , but once its on it beads water for multiple washes and shines on

良いワックスだと思います 膜厚感があり 映り込みもきれい 濡れ感はほどほどT1イエローカルナバの特長どうりの艶だと思います量も多いし 施工性も悪くない T1ホワイトカルナバ仕様の商品には透明感や濡れ艶感では劣りますが 国産のワックスではない系統の艶だと思いますので 興味がある人は購入も良いと思います これ以上となるとザイモールとかになると思います 昔に比べてかなり値段が上がったので★一つ減らしました