De Nitrate 500Ml, Aquarium Filter Media

Good product

Me ha gustado

Superb clear water

One of my larger salt tanks had a couple mishaps with dosing and over feeding which caused nutrient spikes and a large presence of ammonia, phos and nitrates. The tank is 90 and the sump 30 gallons just above the water line. With all the rock and sand and boi media, call it 70 gallons of water. I bought two of the 16oz bottles and it was the perfect amount to fill between the sat baffles of the sump heading into the return bay. Those pebbles turned from pearl white to a dingey light grey in just a couple weeks which means it’s almost time to swap it out. The sponge filters in the baffles cause a decent amount of phos and nitrogen which is being forced through the media beneath it (similar to the way a reactor works) and this product does what it’s advertised to do. 8 hours later the nute levels were stable and have remained so for 6 addditonal weeks now. Very happy customer. Ordering the bucket now. Thanks for an amazing line of producer, seachem!

Between the Prime and this, my new tank stabilised in a matter of days after elevated water parameters across the board.

After reading the other reviews, I thought I will give it a try and in the end De*nitrate really works, my 4L De*nitrate brings down my 60 gal overstocked freshwater tank from 80ppm nitrate to a constant 10ppm, however it takes a lot more effort, brain and money on top of the product itself to create an ideal environment for it. And I think it's worth it. First you need a few things: 1. A media reactor cylindrical and clear 2. Liquid flow meter 3. Flow control valve 4. A pre-filter 5. An after-filter 6. A submersible aquarium pump 7. PVC ball valves 8. Stainless/plastic hose clamps and strong cable ties 9. Clear aquarium vinyl tubing 10. 50 micron filter pads Then you connect the submersible pump to a shut-off valve, through a pre-filter, then through media reactor, out through the liquid flow meter, through the flow control valve, then finally an after-filter which is a 50 micron polishing pad tied to the end of the tube submerged in the aquarium. You want the flow rate to be at around 35gph consistently. To do that, you will have to adjust the flow control valve once in a while as the pre-filter catches more and more debris while it slows down the flow little by little. A few things need to be taken into consideration: 1. You need a pump that has a flow rate of at least three times of 35gph just to handle the media reactor and pre-filter, then add roughly additional 100gph for 50 micron polishing pad because it slows down the flow significantly. Finally another 50gph as the flow rate gets slowed down little by little in the long run while it catches more and more debris. 2. You need to use your liquid flow meter in combination with PVC ball valve to accurately control your flow rate. De*nitrate takes about 2 weeks for me to work. 3. Do not cheap out on a pre-filter, make it big, in diameter, not in length. The bigger diameter it has, the longer it takes to slow down the flow significantly hence the longer time periods it provides until maintenance. 4. Put a 50 micron filtering pad inside your pre-filter. This will provide longer working time for your media reactor before it gets clogged up by debris which then it would require a complete rinsing of the media itself. 5. It can be pain in the ass when it comes to the tubing size. The best case scenario would be one size fits all when your pump, your pre-filter, your media reactor, your flow meter all require the same tube size, if not, then you would need multi-hose adapter which adds to the work and cost. 6. Always use clamps in every joint to prevent potential leak. Use plastic cable ties or hose clamps instead of metal clamps for underwater applications. 7. Add PVC ball valve at the ins and outs of your pre-filter and media reactor for easy maintenance. 8. At the beginning and after every time you rinse your media, add tiny bit of sugar at the bottom and middle of your reactor as the anaerobic bacteria need a carbon source to thrive. 9. Last but not least, your will need an alkaline buffer, aquarium minerals and occasionally some carbon filter because once water change becomes less and less often, maintaining a healthy PH, vital minerals level and water purity becomes more and more important.