Stronghold Anchor, Heavy Duty Bike Ground and Wall Lock Mount | Hardened 16mm Carbon Alloy Steel Shackle, Permanent 6.10 lb Security Point for Bicycles, E-Bikes, Scooters, and Trailers

Positives: Very solid product. Quality build. This will not be the weakest link in my security. I used an old electric drill with hammer action and the bits help up perfectly. My concrete was poured 3 years ago with no visible cracks. Negatives: Takes some elbow to install. SUGGESTIONS: 1 Consider your location carefully 2 Allow plenty of time for install. It took me an hour to install. I could do it a second time in probably 20 minutes. 3 Following the directions exacty as indicated ... with possibly one exception .... You will drill three holes total into the concrete. The directions state to use the big bit for the first hole and then use the smaller bit first for a pilot hole and for accruacy before using the larger bit for the other two holes. I would suggest using the smaller bit and drilling a pilot hole for your first hole too. This will help drill the hole perpendicular to the floor and will reduce spalding or busting out some of the concrete if you try to drill the first hole with the larger bit only. 4 Do not attempt to drill all three pilot holes at once. Follow the directions. Drill one hole and fit one anchor. Then do the second and then the third. Do them one at a time. This will asure accurate placement of the achors. 5 Drill each hole perpendicular to the floor taking the time to check as you go. This will prevent trying to round out the hole if you get started wrong. A good straight hole will help the sleeve to fit in nice and tight for added security. 6 Use a shop vac as you drill to remove the dust. Drill a little, stop, use the vac and then drill some more checking that your drilling perpendicular to the floor as you go. The three achors will then fit nicely in your holes. This is not rocket surgery as my friend says. You are drilling three holes and installing three anchors. My installation went very well. Allow yourself some time, follow the directions and your install will go very well.

I was quite overwhelmed upon receiving this product. My first impressions: it was big, heavy and felt like it was over engineered. There is nothing flimsy at all with the entire construction, even the plastic cap was thick, so thick that a heavy vehicle can easily drive over it without being damaged. I did have some doubts on how the installation will proceed after reading some of the negative reviews here. So I decided to read and understand the instruction manual. We set the mounting plate on the concrete pavement and drilled a hole with the pilot drill on the first marked hole on the plate. Once the drill was an inch into the material, we removed the plate and drilled to the length of the anchors. We vacuumed all the dust out then proceeded to drill with the final moly. We then carefully vacuumed all of the dust out the pushed the anchors into the hole, placed the mounting plate and screwed the bolt tight. Note that if the hole is carefully cleaned of all the drilling material, you don’t have to hammer the anchors, you can simply work them in using your fingers. We then proceeded to drill into hole #2 of the mounting plate with the pilot drill and repeated the procedure above, and the same went for hole #3. After all the anchors were placed we tightened the bolts and the plate gripped the concrete securely. There was no play or wiggle at all that can be perceived. The supplied bolt head seals/caps were hammered in place that made the installation permanent. Finally the plastic cover was screwed in place and what you see is the product successfully installed. Many folks advised using a hammer drill. We used a regular corded Dewalt drill and took our time drilling and vacuuming the dust and it worked very well. The job was surprisingly easy and straightforward. Best of all we now something to secure our bicycles and am confident that it will perform as designed. Final impressions: excellent product, easy to follow instructions and all materials needed were supplied for a successful installation.

This is bigger than it looks in the photos. Eight inches diameter and almost two inches thickness makes quite a lump on your garage floor or patio. Before buying this Kryptonite unit I had considered digging a little hole in the floor, pouring in some cement, sinking an eye bolt in that, and waiting for it to set and cure. But hardened eye bolts are hard to find. Nice strong forged ones, sure, but they're not hardened and are very saw-able. So I thought of buying a decent hardened chain and pouring the concrete over most of that, leaving just a few links sticking out. But the chain would cost more than this unit. So I ended up just getting this thing and not pouring any concrete. The included drill bits are good. I tried drilling first with my conventional 1/2" drill, and it worked for a while, but had a gawdawful time getting through whenever it hit a rock; and since I was drilling through concrete, of course there were loads of rocks. So I bought a Harbor Freight 1/2" hammer drill, the cheapest one (about $20). While nowhere near as substantial a piece of machinery as my faithful old non-hammer drill, it worked just fine. It needs some downward pressure but not an unholy amount; let the drill do the work. It took me no more than five minutes of actual drilling time to do all three holes. Your mileage may vary; there's concrete, and then there's concrete. Some concretes are more annoying than others. The inserts are designed to grab in a hole maybe 1.5" deep. My outdoor slab of concrete is thinner than that, not much over an inch. It was poured in the 1920s, when they perhaps weren't so profligate with even cheap materials as they are now. So all three holes went all the way through. While that certainly made it easy to clean the dust out - it all fell through the bottom - it wasn't obvious that there would be enough material for the inserts to grab. I went ahead anyway, and it all seems to have worked OK. A problem - it is essentially impossible to drill three holes in exactly the right places. This is true for all materials and is just the way that conventional drill bits work; when they start to cut they don't do it absolutely symetrically, and the hole wanders. Drilling one hole as a pilot and then widening it with a larger drill makes things even worse; both bits will wander off center when they start cutting, and you'll be even farther off. Which is one reason why in machine shop practice a drilled hole is not considered a high-precision feature. Reaming and boring are precision operations, drilling is not. So in general, holes drilled in concrete won't end up where you want them without spot drilling and some elaborate fixturing which this kit doesn't have. So my holes were off a bit. Actually, they were off rather a lot. I managed to get the screws all started anyway; start them all with the plate not touching the ground (don't tighten one, then expect to get the others to line up, because they won't). Once they're started they'll probably sock down OK. If it hadn't worked, I could have tried again, moving the whole thing a few inches to one side or the other ... or I could have done it the long way, hammering holes through the floor, digging three little pits (or one bigger pit), filling them with fresh concrete, putting coupling nuts, studs and washers in the wet concrete, and lining them all up with the plate before it sets. This method wouldn't use inserts at all. But as it turned out Plan B wasn't needed. The included "L"-shaped hex wrenches are hardly adequate. They fit fine but are just too small to get any decent leverage. I used hex bits and a 1/2" drive flex handle to really torque the lil' buggers down. The finished installation looks nice - about as elegant as one can expect a chain on a floor to be - and feels very solid. I replaced the two flathead screws with stainless ones - just ordinary hardware-store specimens, not hardened or high-strength. They just hold the plastic cover down; it's the three bolts sunk into the concrete which make this secure. My motorcycle seems happy with the whole arrangement, except for being outdoors, and we can't blame Kryptonite for that.

Some installation suggestions (some of which have been mentioned by other reviewers). 1. The supplied anchors work well if you install them properly. * Don't hammer them into concrete when the bolts are partially threaded. Otherwise the end nuts will be pushed out the bottom. 2. Use a hammer drill. Drilling the holes into my garage slab using the supplied drill bits took all of 10 minutes. 3. As described in the supplied instructions, drill the holes using the anchor frame as a template. Drill the holes one at a time and thread the bolts into the U-shackle so that it doesn't move while moving on to the next hole. Make sure you drill the holes straight. 4. After the holes are drilled, suck or blow out the residue trapped within with a vacuum or compressor. 5. Apply a small amount of concrete adhesive into the holes before driving the anchors in. 6. Thread the bolts into the anchors and tighten them prior to placing the U-shackle plate on top. This will make sure that the anchors bite into the holes and allow the threads to reach the bolts once the shackle is placed over them. That's about it. 13mm (1/2") Pewag G120 chain with sheath will fit through the U-shackle.

This thing is substantial. It will definitely deter thieves. They won't try to cut this anchor, they will try to cut your chain or lock. So make sure those are equally substantial. That said, this was pretty difficult to install. We used a Makita hammer drill and it took about an hour. Although this product ships with two drill bits, they don't seem to be of the highest quality. So with each hole drilled, the bits are less sharp and the job becomes increasingly difficult. HERE ARE SOME TIPS: Drill a little bit deeper than you think you need to go and wiggle the drill bit a little, because the anchors are very snug and it's very easy to damage the anchors when you're tapping them into the concrete holes. Use a vacuum to remove concrete dust from the holes. The handle of a plastic spoon worked well to get the dust from the bottom of the hole. IMPORTANT: When you are tapping the anchors into the concrete holes, DO NOT hit them hard. The anchors will break or you will strip the threads. If you can't tap them in lightly with a hammer, take them out and make the holes a tiny bit wider. Also, the instructions don't say this, but make sure the anchor bolts are screwed down by hand (seated) BEFORE you start tapping them into the concrete holes. If the bolt is not seated, the tapping pressure will go to the threads of the bolt and nut. And the threads will strip easily. We found this out the hard way. If you're not confident about doing this yourself, call a concrete contractor. They will install it for you for about $75. Good luck.

This thing is huge. I found a large, heavy package on the porch and couldn't recall ordering anything that big or heavy. I thought, "What, 24 more cans of cat food?" The round black part is light plastic with two 4 mm holes: it provides a pleasant cover over the bracket you bolt do the ground. It comes with 5/16" and 5/8" concrete bits but my DeWalt 577 drill needs SDS+ bits, so I set those aside and bought two more bits for my collection. The instructions for anchoring this to the floor are clear, correct, and guide you through the work so you don't, as it warns, end up with holes all over the place. You drill on 5/8" hole, then a 5/16" pilot hole guided by the bracket, then bore out the 2nd hole to be 5/8", and repeat that for the final hole. I used a shop vac to get the concrete dust out of the holes. Two of the masonry anchors worked flawlessly, but the 3rd came apart in the hole. All pieces are magnetic, so I retrieved them and spent an hour trying to put them back together. No dice. I slept on it. The next morning I reassembled the fastener by building it around a 7/16" diameter rod (not the 3/8" bolt) and had it back in working order in 5 minutes. It came apart the first time because the hole was neither deep enough (off by 1/8") and it must have had a burr along one side. I know this now because the fastener came apart a second time. I fixed the hole, reassembled the fastener, and got it all done. It looks great. When I drive off and leave the door up I know that at least my bike will be there when I get back. Amazing how far you have to go to deter a would-be thief. Note: to reassemble the fastener I used 2 rubber bands, a 7/16" rod, and circlip pliers to spread the spring. Just saying.

I will give it 5 stars even though there would always be some scope of improvement and advanced engineering, and I will add my views in latter sections. As I have shown in the picture, having the right tools does make it so much easier and accurate. It does comes with a couple of masonry bits which will get you going and I did that once before using the kryptonite evolution anchor but it was a pain and my hand drill overheated (but survived luckily!). This time I invested in a rotary hammer drill ( a low cost one from harbor freight) and it made a world of difference. The holes were drilled in a few minutes. I also purchased good quality sds plus masonry bits for my drill. To add to the strength, i used epoxy resin too. This is super strong now! What could be improved - this is not for someone who wants this to be removable(maybe a rented apartment for example). But then having this as removable compromises on security too. Unless I think someone comes up with an engineering idea to have it removable but lock the access point to the bolts when something is locked to the anchor. Also I would have liked it to have further low profile but then it would perhaps have been harder to install. Also one needs to remember that with all locks the security remain with the system as a whole and following best practices - like installing this at a corner preferably to make it difficult to access for a thief, using a strong chain lock and having other levels of deterrence like bright light, camera, alarm etc so that someone is deterred from risking too much time trying to break it - yes everything is breakable with right amount of time and right tools.

UPDATE. I cooled down and got it installed. number one important thing is AFTER you have tapped the anchor mostly in thread in the screw and draw the collet up a few threads until you start to feel a smidge of pressure. Then tap the rest of the way. I hardly remember now but MOST of the problems were getting them to thread in after following their exact instructions, and drawing the collets up from where they are assembled as shipped is important. If you can't sink exactly flush, draw the collet up, unscrew the screw. Tap very gently directly on the outside body, then reinsert screw and draw up a smidge again. Instructions are GARBAGE--included ones don't give depths or hints. Online version give a depth that it thinks you are going to hit within a 1/16th of an inch and that will hold the collet. For the rest of us in reality--hopefully that trick will help. As for the product--literally have video of thieves looking at this with the kryptonite chain and lock and just walking away. First me. I worked as a mechanic out of high school, went and got a BS and started my own businesses - one of which is real estate based and I do all my own stuff; remodeling, & custom work. I'm doing stuff like this install at least once a week. It's been 110 ish out so I've been taking my time and working on this when it suits me to get out of the pool. Not hurrying. I have spent about $425 on Kryptonite stuff this year, and won't ever be spending the money again. None of their stuff has stopped any theft but my blink camera at quite a bit less has stopped two. I also have the bike tracked. Those are better areas to spend your money. The super specific instructions should have set me off. I should have just returned it then. You drill 3 holes. For those of you who haven't used a good hammer drill before asking for anything more than about a +-1/4 in concrete with THE supplied bits is preposterous. But I'll get to that later. Hole 1. Actually measures about exactly what they state, but sleeve doesn't sink fully. So I spend more time reaching down with a pick and vacuuming out. I am in the pool as I write this but I'm pretty sure the instructions don't state that you need to measure your depth at the side of the hole. Now I have the option of trying to drive the sleeve up or tap it in a smidge further. Grabbing the hammer at HALF way choked up I tap some more. Good news folks, the sleeve sunk to flush. Also the bolt bent. Now, this is probably an attempt at good design. Hardend bolts have a lot of strength but can be brittle, so if someone tries to steal this it's WAY better to have a malleable bolt that will continue to fight them. But not this malleable. Tapped. With the hammer choked up halfway. Bent. Ok. Drill hole two. Go a little two deep. I tap in ever so unbelievably ridiculously carefully holding right at the head of the hammer and taking 5 minutes for a 30 seconds job. Before hole three, I went and got my expensive bits. It was an annoying 40 mile drive. I think they're Bosch if for some reason after reading this you want to install this thing. Most important thing is that they are designed to really draw the dust up and deposit it by the hole. So you're not fighting the dust drilling or measuring. With the shop vac right next to it I nailed that one far faster than the supplied bits and left it a bit shorter than told. Again tapped in sleve #3 super carefully. Does not sink all the way but I pulled the bolt and tapped the sleeve itself down about 3/32 to make it flush. Which is PROBABLY what the instructions should actually say. This is the one that worked best on my final assembly attempt. Anyway, I thread chased one super malleable bolt with a damaged bottom thread and because these bolts are impossible to find a replacement for ANYWHERE straitend the one that bent on sleeve 1 in a vice. Thread chased the bottom of those and go to install. Hole 3 with my expensive bits and not following instructions catches perfect. Hole 1 that was to short doesn't. Had to get a longer m10*1.5 put it in, catch the threads and draw it up gently an 1/8 of an inch or so. Then the supplied bolt catches. No big deal except this is the hole just slightly SHORTER than their instructions, so this should not be happening. Hole 2 (that was too deep) the bottom of the sleeve bolt slipped JUST under the rest of the sleeve. As a side note for anyone foolish enough to have bought this, while generally I consider a job not clean not done AND I have grave concerns the concrete dust will act as a lubricant and weaken the system, if you went too far maybe leave the dust in to give you a base for this stupid collet to not fall out. I try to gently draw the bottom collet up like the last one but can't get there. Ok, I'll thread with a long bolt and super gently tap it up. Nope. It explodes. So now I've got a day of work, and a proprietary piece I can't find anywhere- both bolt and sleeve to complete the job. And obviously given the instructions this happens a lot and people are having trouble. The first and easiest solution that tells us Kryptonite doesn't care about you as a customer & they already have your money, is that they don't provide extra hardware. Really? I wasn't worth the $0.87 to you as a customer to provide extra either proprietary or super hard to find sleeve bolts? NOTED. And in the future I'll throw my $425 in a 4 month period to another company. This would be a much better option than essentially saying in the instructions-please drill to production environment specifications with our cheap bits. The other option is to go with a traditional design. Most sleve and wedge anchors-in fact every other one I've ever used, has a solid stud that goes down the center to make this problem impossible to have. So if they used those they would need proprietary nuts chamferred like lug nuts and those already exist. They could give you a bag of spares for $0.50. Such a design would mean you couldn't hammer a bearing into them at the end to secure them but one COULD red threadlock them. Which to me is an attractive option. You need a loud torch a 5 minutes to remove each nut if you ever decide you're done with this thing, which thieves are unlikely to do. But that is easier than drilling out the heads of these stupid impossible to find bolts. Ok. Time to hop out of the pool and see if I can find a way to put their garbage together and then go one star everything else I bought from them.

Excelente fácil para instalar y en combinación con kryptonite cadena y candado puedo dormir bien sabiendo mi moto tiene buen protección aunque nada es 100% perfecto en contra robo.

Das Kryptonite Stronghold eignet sich sehr gut für Roller, Motorräder oder Fahrräder. Seine robuste Konstruktion und einfache Installation machen es zu einem verlässlichen Bodenanker. Die Vielseitigkeit ermöglicht eine flexible Anbringung an verschiedenen Orten. (Im Boden, an einer dicken Betonwand, etc) Ich finde es super, dass der Anker sogar mit den notwendigen Bohrköpfen kommt (1x kleinerer Primer-Bohrkopf zum Vorbohren, 1x dicker 16mm Bohrkopf für die Metalldübel). Die mitgelieferten Sechskantschlüssel sind zu kurz. Der Anker ist damit nicht montierbar, man bekommt die Schrauben nicht zugezogen. Idealerweise hat man ein Rohr um eine Hebelwirkung zu erzielen, oder eine Impact Drill mit einem guten Hex Bit.

This anchor really works and it comes with all the installation bits needed thank.

ハンマードリルがないと取り付けられませんがその分かなり期待できます。簡単には引き抜けないでしょう。穴を空ける際は十分に注意して位置を決めないと失敗するかもしれません。取り付ける前に穴の位置を見直して、ダメなら穴を広げて余った部分にセメントをいれるなどするといいと思います。たとえ全部のボルトが入ってなくても抜くのは困難だと思います。

Più grosso di quanto possa sembrare in foto. Realizzazione ottima, molto curata. La sensazione è di estrema robustezza. Il kit comprende anche le punte da trapano e le chiavi a brugola necessarie per il montaggio. Un consiglio: prima di inserire le viti (già assemblate con i relativi tasselli metallici) assicuratevi che i fori praticati con il trapano (ATTENZIONE: di potenza sufficiente per una punta da muro di 16mm) siano sufficientemente ampi ovvero che la punta dopo aver forato abbia un minimo agio. In caso contrario, se il tassello sforza un po', rischiereste di rovinare il fragile assemblaggio dei tasselli stessi, pregiudicando i successivi tentativi di inserimento nel foro. Spero di essere stato sufficientemente chiaro. Consigliatissimo per box e cantine a protezione di bici troppo poco difese dalle sole serrature degli accessi.