---
product_id: 225593550
title: "Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black)"
brand: "overture"
price: "54175CFA"
currency: XOF
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 12
category: "Overture"
url: https://www.desertcart.sn/products/225593550-nylon-filament-1-75mm-3d-printer-filament-polyamide-pa-1kg
store_origin: SN
region: Senegal
---

# ±0.02mm precision Heat resistant up to 180°C Strong Nylon 6/6.6 copolymer Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black)

**Brand:** overture
**Price:** 54175CFA
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎉 Elevate your 3D prints with precision and power—print like a pro, no compromises!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) by overture
- **How much does it cost?** 54175CFA with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sn](https://www.desertcart.sn/products/225593550-nylon-filament-1-75mm-3d-printer-filament-polyamide-pa-1kg)

## Best For

- overture enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted overture brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Reliable & Ready:** Backed by dedicated support and a 1-year shelf life for unopened spools—your dependable 3D printing partner.
- • **Heat-Resistant Hero:** Withstands temperatures up to 180°C, ideal for durable, high-performance parts.
- • **Precision Perfected:** Dimensional accuracy of ±0.02mm ensures flawless prints every time.
- • **User-Centric Design:** Innovative spool features like grid layout, weight gauge, and clip holes for effortless filament management.
- • **Odorless & Warp-Free:** Enjoy clean, smooth printing with zero warping or unpleasant smells.

## Overview

OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm is a high-strength, heat-resistant copolymer (Nylon 6/6.6) filament designed for FDM 3D printers. It offers exceptional dimensional accuracy (±0.02mm), odorless and warp-free printing, and user-friendly spool features, making it perfect for engineering prototypes and durable parts. Compatible with most FDM printers, it comes with dedicated support and a 1-year shelf life when stored properly.

## Description

Product description OTHER FILAMENTS FROM OVERTURE Nylon Black Nylon Gray PETG Red PLA Orange TPU Red

Review: For thirty dollars I though why not, and was pleasantly surprised (after a bit of tuning) - I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them. The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer. Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey. That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't. Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly. Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage. After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts. On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend. Here are my current printer settings: Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else Infill: 40% (for roof quality) Nozzle temp: 260c Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden) Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time Layer height: 0.2 mm Z hop: none Any other settings could be left stock Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters: https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/ Here is the adhesive sheet: https://www.desertcart.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1 Have fun printing!
Review: Yet another great filament from Overture 3D - This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products. First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler. After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements. I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go. My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding. For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging). I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad. Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap. Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament). Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces. For this print, here are my basic settings: Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S) Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 Hot end: 250C Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA) Cooling fan: 50% Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s Print speed: 45mm/s Bridge speed: 40mm/s Bridge flow: 80% Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings. UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.

## Features

- 【Odorless & Zero Warping】 This CoPA filament combines excellent strength, toughness, and heat resistance up to 180˚C. It delivers excellent printing quality with no Odor or warpage during printing. As the Nylon material is sensitive to moisture, please remember to put it back into a transparent bag
- 【High Stability and Durability】 OVERTURE filament is based on a copolymer of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6.6, a strong and tough thermoplastic polymer. Great for creating parts which needs to be strong and durable. These Nylon filaments are excellent choice for engineering production or prototyping. PVA glue is always required for better adhesion
- 【More Humanized Design & Easy to Use】 Grid layout on the surface for easy resizing; with length/ weight gauge and viewing hole on the reel so that you can easily figure out the remaining filaments; more filaments clip holes for fixing purpose on the reel; Larger spool inner diameter design makes feeding smoother
- 【Dimensional Accuracy & Consistency】 Advanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing guarantee these Nylon filaments of 1.75 mm diameter, Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm; 1 kg spool (2.2lbs)
- 【Supported & Smooth Printing】 Print with confidence. Overture filament comes with dedicated support and a 1-year shelf life for unopened spools (proper storage required). We're committed to timely solutions for a seamless printing experience. Your reliable 3D printing partner

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B087R3M9Z2 |
| Additional Features | Exceptional Strength and Durability, Excellent Layer Adhesion and Low Shrinkage, Impact Resistance |
| Best Sellers Rank | #17,097 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #458 in 3D Printing Filament |
| Brand | OVERTURE |
| Brand Name | OVERTURE |
| Color | Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.4 out of 5 stars 742 Reviews |
| EU Spare Part Availability Duration | 1 Years |
| Item Diameter | 1.75 Millimeters |
| Item Weight | 1 Kilograms |
| Manufacturer | OVERTURE |
| Manufacturer Part Number | OVA175 |
| Material | Nylon |
| Material Type | Nylon |
| Model Number | OVA175 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Special Feature | Exceptional Strength and Durability, Excellent Layer Adhesion and Low Shrinkage, Impact Resistance |
| UPC | 810031292233 |
| Unit Count | 35.274 Ounce |
| Warranty Description | 2 year |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** OVERTURE
- **Material:** Nylon
- **Color:** Black
- **Item Weight:** 1 Kilograms
- **Item Diameter:** 1.75 Millimeters

## Images

![Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71eUcblZtLL.jpg)
![Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71aEMjKistL.jpg)
![Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71LZ+NZP2xL.jpg)
![Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61oAk+gjcJL.jpg)
![Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black) - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81DxiKyKQsL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: What is the country of origin for this product ?**
A: After viewing their website, they have a hub in Texas, but all of the mis-translations lead me to believe it's Chinese.

**Q: It says odorless? Does this stuff smell like brain damage?**
A: Regardless of smell, nylon filaments emit styrene when printing similar to ABS filaments.  Highly recommend venting outside your home and not being in the same room while printing.  Using the lowest possible temperature for a successful print can sometimes reduce the amount of VOCs emitted during printing.

**Q: will this destroy a brass nozzle?  and what is its constant heat use rating?**
A: I had no issues with nozzle wear while printing with this filament, as it is Nylon only.  I can't specifically answer the 'constant heat use' question, but it is higher than PLA, and lower than ABS/ASA.  However, this is more flexible, so if used under load, it might not be a great candidate.

**Q: Is this product gasoline or fuel resistant?  If not, is there a recommendation for a compatible filament? Looking to print model engine carburetors.**
A: I soaked some models printed with this product over the weekend in gasoline and then tested it for strength and ability to retain fluid. It performed identically to the control models that were not immersed in fuel.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ For thirty dollars I though why not, and was pleasantly surprised (after a bit of tuning)
*by B***S on October 19, 2020*

I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them. The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer. Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey. That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't. Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly. Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage. After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts. On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend. Here are my current printer settings: Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzle Speeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere else Infill: 40% (for roof quality) Nozzle temp: 260c Heatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layers Retracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden) Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer time Layer height: 0.2 mm Z hop: none Any other settings could be left stock Here is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters: https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/ Here is the adhesive sheet: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1 Have fun printing!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Yet another great filament from Overture 3D
*by M***S on January 27, 2021*

This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products. First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler. After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements. I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go. My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding. For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging). I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad. Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap. Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament). Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces. For this print, here are my basic settings: Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S) Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 Hot end: 250C Bed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA) Cooling fan: 50% Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/s Print speed: 45mm/s Bridge speed: 40mm/s Bridge flow: 80% Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profile Overall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings. UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excellent easy to use nylon filament
*by J***. on January 16, 2026*

Excellent easy to use nylon filament. I print on an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro with standard nozzle. This filament is not reinforced but is extremely strong. It has great adhesion using a glue stick on a PEI bed. I printed a gear of approximately 8 inches in diameter with no warping, no stringing and no adhesion problems. This is a great filament for those that need to print functional parts but don't want to become an expert in all the nuance of printing exotic materials. Great value.

## Frequently Bought Together

- OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black)
- OVERTURE PETG 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, Neatly Wound Durable PETG 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Strong Toughness Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, Fit Most FDM Printers (Black (1-Pack))
- OVERTURE TPU Filament 1.75mm Flexible TPU Roll, 95A Soft 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm (TPU Black)

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*Product available on Desertcart Senegal*
*Store origin: SN*
*Last updated: 2026-05-31*