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A Washington Post Book World Best Book of the Year When her carriage first crossed over from her native Austria into France, fourteen-year-old Marie Antoinette was taken out, stripped naked before an entourage, and dressed in French attire to please the court of her new king. For a short while, the young girl played the part. But by the time she took the throne, everything had changed. In Queen of Fashion, Caroline Weber tells of the radical restyling that transformed the young queen into an icon and shaped the future of the nation. With her riding gear, her white furs, her pouf hairstyles, and her intricate ballroom disguises, Marie Antoinette came to embody--gloriously and tragically--all the extravagance of the monarchy.
| Dimensions | 6.14 x 0.95 x 9.2 inches |
| Edition | First Edition |
| Isbn 10 | 0312427344 |
| Isbn 13 | 978-0312427344 |
| Item Weight | 1.04 pounds |
| Language | English |
| Print Length | 448 pages |
| Publication Date | October 2, 2007 |
| Publisher | Picador |
User
Biography of a fashion icon
Pros: Unique and successful way of approaching Marie Antoinette's life, well written and entertaining.Cons: Sometimes gets a tad bit too descriptive with the costumes."Queen of Fashion" approaches the life of Marie Antoinette by looking at the wardrobe that she was infamous for. Caroline Weber has a brilliant talent for showing both what Marie Antoinette's wardrobe said about her as a person, a political entity and for what her subjects perceived it as saying. Part cultural history, but above all, biography, each chapter of "Queen of Fashion" reveals a different aspect of Marie's personality. Weber does not merely focus on the queen's most outrageous fashion choices, but shows the progression of her life through her clothes. We see Marie Antoinette as a scared fourteen-year-old, stripped of her clothing and power, as a glittering diva spending obscene amounts of money to be the first lady of fashion, and as a widow dressed in black, deprived of the clothing choices that had come to define her, but still attempting to make statements with what little she had left. The book doesn't make any apologies for Marie, but neither does it cast blame. It merely helps the reader to understand her better."Queen of Fashion" is superbly written. There is enough documented research to give the book weight, but it never feels dry or academic. I have trouble finding any faults with the book, but if anything, I would say that Weber just occasionally gets carried away with describing Marie Antoinette's outfits and goes on longer than needed.Overall, though, a lush, entertaining book about a fascinating woman. 5 stars.
User
dressed to kill
This is a wonderful book for anyone interested in how fashion influences and is influenced by politics. Marie Antoinette's mother - the Empress Maria Theresa - was the most politically astute leaders of her time. She arranged the marriage of Marie Antoinette to the future Louis XVI in order to solidify the French and Austrian alliance. One of her first actions upon the engagement of her daughter was to order a complete new wardrobe from France for her so she could appear more French. Ironically, this wardrobe was confiscated at Marie Antionette's transfer (the official ceremony) to the French as not being French enough. Later we see such mundane items as a corset and a simple muslin dress take on a political significance which even by today's sartorial (i.e. politicians darning blue jeans and the requisite lumberjack shirt to run for office) standards seem dismaying and out of proportion. The author goes through each stage of Marie Antoinette's life showing how what she wore opened her up to derision or praise according to how the political winds were blowing. And, ironically, how a necklace that Marie Antoinette never owned and, in fact, rejected outright as being too ostentatious set her on her first steps to the guillotine.I highly recommend this book as a unique view of the political implications of dress in the 18th century. The author gives congent explanations and examples as to how dress at the French court and in France in general sent a powerful message to the populace.
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"Let Them Eat Fashion, Not Cake!"
Okay, yes, I am well and truly aware that MA never said "Let them eat cake," and that it was from a princess 100 years before MA ever set foot in France. However, the spirit of that saying, how MA was accused of violating her subjects by blithely ignoring their economical state for the duration of her tenure as Queen of France, that I want to convey, even while knowing how she was in some ways innocent of their myriad of accusations.This book, Queen of Fashion, originally caught my eye when the description laid out a biography of MA by basing much of her actions, her rise and fall from power, and her eventual demise through her clothing choices and how clothes in the time of late 1700's France conveyed power, prestige, privilege, and most especially, monarchial control. From the sample alone, I encountered a wealth of information based on MA's early years in Austria, how she was raised and tutored in the ways of dance, music, history, and etiquette on to when her betrothal to the Dauphin of France was finalized before she made her way to the border between France and Austria for the exchange of this primped and proper archduchess over to the French envoys. The amount of money that Maria Teresa spent on her daughter before she ever left the Austrian borders, a trouseauu that eclipsed all the dowries of her sisters, all to impress the French officials and nobility that would bear witness to the detailed, and yes very naked, transformation of this Austrian girl to French Dauphine, was mind-blowing. What I can only imagine as being close to millions of today's currency all for clothes, accessories, and a carriage to elevate MA into the French's idea of Bourbon luxury is incredible to me. And from there, the excess became even more stunning.Over the course of the book, the amount of clothing and extras that MA commissioned, who her stylists were, where she shopped and perused in the streets of Paris, and the masses of details and jewels and fads she created and unleashed on the court and upper nobility, all outlined and embellished how MA was received at court when she first arrived (Louis XV found her quite charming and approved, the Dauphin was terrified of her, and many were just waiting for the Le Autrichienne to mess up so horribly she would be sent back to Vienna) and how the turbulent social and political climate of her time directed her actions from her entrance to France up until her death.-- How she used the glorious over-the-top grandeur of her ancestor the Sun King, and consumed millions of livres to furnish her body with clothes, jewels, shoes, ribbons, hats, coats, and coiffuers, to build up her royal "credit" to win court allies when she couldn't birth an heir due to her husband's delicate erectile condition and earning the ire of French citizens for her expenditures and amounting debt as well as the nickname "Madame Deficit" in the bargain.-- How she created unorthodox pseudo-pastoral styles of muslin and linen dresses called gaulles and wide farm hats tied with silk ribbons at her Petit Trianon in order to escape the exceedingly rigid, ridiculously complex etiquette of Versailles, and greatly offending the authentic peasants that starved for bread and flour that MA was constantly covering her hair with while also starving the established French silk industry with her imported fabrics.-- How she commissioned an entire wardrobe of royalist-colored dresses and coats when the revolution was metaphorically (and quite literally) beating down the doors of the palace to have her head, thus encouraging her captors that any promise of complicity and support of the changing political times was an absolute falsehood, condemning MA even further in their eyes as a born deceiver, an insatiable monster, and the cause of all their problems.-- And how, during the final hours of her life, MA chose to wear a pure white gown and cap on the ride to her execution, cementing into the minds of the revolutionaries that had come to watch her death, the vision of an unstained, almost deified, figure that graciously and full of dignity strode to her doom, not once allowing the pain and grief of her unfortunate life, her lost husband and friends, her children torn from her arms, and the cruel, malicious actions of biased, hateful jailers to be seen on her face as she confronted Madame Guilliotine for the first and last time.I loved this book. LOVED it. I would gladly recommend this book to any history buff or MA lover. The amount of detail, research, and flow of information was perfect. I devoured it in days. Please, if you love MA or are a fan of France circa 1700s, get this book. It will not disappoint.
User
Insightful look at the politics of Excess
Queen Marie-Antoinette of France's love of fashion was one of her fatal flaws. This love of fashion and dress-up (or down in her case) has often been commented on in biographies of the Queen. However, this is the first book to chart the reasons behind her apparent fashion madness and how while her enemies derided her for the vast amounts she spent on her wardrobe they were usually the first to copy what she wore.This book concentrates on what Marie-Antoinette wore from the time she left Austria till her death at the guillotine. It has a picture section in the middle that shows some of the outfits talked about in the text - but the images of Marie- Antoinette could easily fill another book as subject to itself (one which I'm surprised hasn't been tackled in English before this).If you have an interest in 18th century French costume this is a book worth picking up for a read as it charts the costume excesses of the last quarter of the 18th century in good detail. It's also a minor biography of the Queen in itself. While this book fills out the background to the downfall of the Queen its not a real substitute for a well written formal biography. The real moral of this book is that a great fashion sense is no real substitute for genuine Power
User
Marie Antoinette and Fashion will always be connected
I found this book to be a fantastic read! Out of the many, this is the book I chose to read first when I became interested in Marie. Caroline Weber did a beautiful job destroying (if you will) old stereotypes that are associated with this woman.One reviewer stated," Not sure whether it wants to be a biography or fashion."I respectfully disagree. I'm not sure you can have one without the other. I'm very pleased that I chose this book to be my first. It made me want to know more about this courageous woman as well as the fashion of the 18th century, the French Revolution, and all who were involved.Just recently I pick this book up from my shelf, dusted it off and decided to read it again, only to realize that there were things that I had either dismissed or forgotten, and am now studying them further.All in all, a fascinating and fast paced bitter sweet telling of how fashion and Marie Antoinette are intricately entwined.A must read for those who are just starting to learn about her as well as the seasoned expert.
User
Interesting and Informative
Fashion proivdes such a fresh means to interpret history and Caroline Weber does a superb job analyzing the potential meaning behind the Queen's evolving fashion choices and what those signified during the blazing trajectory of her short, extremely varied, challenging and, ultimately, tragic life. Well done! I wanted to offer one other insight into the brief mention of Marie Antoinette's dog who accompanied her as a teenage bride to France. Ms. Weber identifies the dog's given name as "Mops". This hardly seems correct, as "mops" a German word borrrowed by Russia in the 18th century, stands for a generic pug dog. Consequently, whether or not MA's dog was named "Mops", it does appear to have been a pug.
User
An excellent account of Marie Antoinette's sartorial passages -- very good ...
An excellent account of Marie Antoinette's sartorial passages -- very good historical writing about the doomed Queen of France who began as a very young Austrian princess. Her clothes, her elaborate wigs -- called <pouffes>-- which she had to sleep in because they were too elaborate to be redone the next day. Great illustrations accompany a riveting narrative. She was arrogant and over the top in many ways, but was taken down in a vicious manner -- her public trial was a spectacle of insult and outrageous allegations (such as seducing her own young son) -- so extreme that the lower class women of Paris booed the prosecutors. Read it!
User
Not Quite What It Seams (pardon the pun)
Although the book is well written, it rather disappointed me.Since this book purported to focus on the fashion aspect and history surrounding Marie Antoinette, I was expecting more pictures of her dresses, shoes, apparel and jewelry for starters. Then the writer tends to spend much time on the politics of the times which has already been rehashed ad-nauseum in so many other scholarly works. I kept trying to skip bits so as to find out more about Marie Anoinette's clothing. I also was kept starved for more gossip and dishy parts (historically researched of course) regarding her relationship with Rose Bertin and others.The writer is, I believe, an Associate Professor of French (Barnard College) and a specialist in Eighteenth Century French literature and cultural history. I expected to learn all about the fine details of corsets, sleeves, stockings etc. as well as the fabric industry, innovations in clothmaking and dying techniques, and so much more, which would have made this book a real gem and a unique book amongst so many other books about Marie Antoinette.It's funny but Antonia Fraser's book on Marie Antoinette "The Journey" is much more colourful and interesting and shares more anecdotes and little incidents regarding Marie Antoinette's styles and clothing issues...I also saw a youtube video of the author giving a lecture on her book and it was rather dull too. How odd, she didn't seem very passionate about the subject when she spoke and she refused to answer several of her audience's questions in a very cutting manner regarding Marie Antoinette's relationship with her husband.One does not get the impression the author actually enjoyed writing this book at all....So, for me, an avid reader of scholarly and/or interesting history book which concentrate on the human aspect of royalty, this book was a bit of a disappointment not because it wasn't well-researched or properly worded but because it seemed to miss the point entirely.
User
... describes the politics of fashion and what it was like to live in a gilded
a well written book which describes the politics of fashionand what it was like to live in a gilded cage
User
Bon livre.
Exemplaire en très bon état
User
Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette wore to the Revolution
I have read several books on Marie Antoinette, this is without doubt my favorite biography because Weber's thesis is refreshingly different and thought provoking.Unlike previous biographies which chart Marie Antoinette's life and tragic end, this version analyses why she behaved the way she did,most significantly through her clothes. I am not denying that Marie Antoinette was shockingly extravagant and reckless in her pursuit of 'high fashion' and assuming the mantle of 'trend-setter'; but the reader sees her behavior in context. Most notably, Weber argues that Marie Antoinette was painfully aware that she had not given France an heir, this undermined her position at court and consequently the Franco-Austrian alliance that resulted in her marriage. Weber argues that by assuming the role of leading fashion trends and spending extravagantly (Louis XVI was extremely indulgent possibly to compensate for not having consummated their relationship for several years.) This conveyed to the court that she exercised power, more so than was really the case.The account is also well balanced and documents Marie Antoinette's taste for muslin gowns which had a devastating effect on the French silk industry. Marie Antoinette was either oblivious or unwilling to acknowledge the consequences of her new taste for muslin over silk.Also, as frustrating as court etiquette was it was very much part of court culture and Marie Antoinette was rebellious in adhering to these rules. Concerning etiquette in particular, it was foolish and short-sighted to rebel as it provided fuel to the anti-Austrian faction at court.In the case of her unwillingness to wear the intesely restrictive 'corps' corset, the result were rumours that this was a result of a deformity!I think this account is deeply thought-provoking. That Marie Antoinette was so very young and inexperienced when she arrived at Versailles and painfully unaware of the politics and factions. I really did feel huge sympathy for her despite her decadence. That it was a case of being damned if she did and damned if she didn't.The saddest chapters were towards the end that detail her life after the execution of Louis XVI: if took the soldiers over an hour to prize her young son from her to be taken away. Being separated from her family on the eve of her trial, taking the watch her mother gave her when she left Austria and her wedding ring. Despite her shortcomings as Queen the revolution was so very cruel to her, wishing to break her spirit.Despite her upsets it appears that these stiffened her resolve to act with dignity and in a white gown she went to her execution with courage and fortitude.I throughly recommend this book, not just to those who are fans of Marie Antoinette. It is well researched and an absorbing and sympathetic though balanced account of a tragic life.There is also a lecture on U-Tube by the author if you should type in the title of the book. This is also worth watching.
User
Masterful piece of academic work - an essential addition to my library
Thr author helps us examine the dangerous currents within the palace of Versailles and evidences Marie Antoinette’s choice of attire through: hair, clothes, and colours to influence events.First a reminder on the theme of ACCESS:1. Access ensured Austrian political influence in the marriage between the archduchess and the French Dauphin this would guarantee peaceful co existence rather than war.2. Access to God - as head of the church in France the bourbon etiquette through the king demanded adherence to the strictest form of daily procedures and precedence amongst the clergy and nobility (first and second estates) ensuring respect. Her fashions would muddle the traditional differences between nobles and poor - all such roads led to disengaging precedence in access and endangering respect for the monarchy .3. Access to the Dauphin by the Dauphine was hindered by elements of the French hierarchy this included comtesse Du Barry (old mistress of Louis 15) risking producing a timely heir to the throne.4. Access to the Nation’s wealth; profligacy of consumption by the king and queen, funding of wars with England, support for the king’s family, nobility and mistresses of Louis 15 led to diminishing wealth and budget deficits.5. Access to liberty and justice through a written constitition under an absolutist monarch was denied. The third estate - the common people - (Abbe Sieyes) had no view of the Nation’s accounts - neither had they an avenue to complain … last time ref 1614 page 189/90 but they could see the consumption by yhe king and his family and as poverty grew and food prices rose encouraged by the pamphleteers they marched on the palaces declaiming scandals like the ‘slaves collar diamond necklace.’ The MOB rose; the greatest danger would exist if the army and the mob might coalasce.We can observe the Queens attire through 3 traffic light periods:The green period 1770- 74 the hair and pouf pages 104 - 6 but 110 was an early warning.The Orange period next 14 years to 1788 where action on access to political influence succeeded but all was put at risk after she was gifted the Petit Trianon. There her household staff sported her own coloured livery - scarlet and white page 196. This displacement from the old order would connect to the cockade which we will meet later in 1789. She still had not provided an heir ….. until 1781.The red period was of course 1789 - 1793 the final days. Which i have chosen to detail below when the royal family failed in their flight to escape Paris and were returned under the control of the Paris mob - taken to the Tuilerie palace and then onto the Temple before finally mounting the scaffold. The third estates rise to power waa symbolised by the wearing of blue and red ribbons in their hats pages 196, … 199 the kings pinning these colours into his own hat which sported a white cockade measured him as no longer being closer than his citizens to GOD !! Then at page 200 this blue, white and red combination became the symbol of the revolutionary nation. I took notice of :1. On October 7, 1789 the Queen adopted the revolutions emblems tricolour - the best way to subvert these new ideas was to share them.2. The loss of the diamonds by Leonard 230 , her hair turned white 232 and the avoidabce of the kings coucher!3. The irony of the overlap on page 259 between the Dumont painting of the Queen in 1793 and the new nations choice of their Marianne; the crown, the jewells, the head ornaments, the Blonde tresses were discarded for the brunette and the red phrygian cap - the cap symbolising liberty - the white haired fashion Queen had been decapitated on the guillotine!Excellent notes and bibliography of over 100 pages - useful for students.
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Wrong place wrong time
The book is an attempt to fit a narrative (clothing) with an event (The French Revolution).Notwithstanding Marie-Antoinette loved her clothes and spent a lot of money on them, it didn't really matter, as she wasn't the only one, it was a case of the ancien régime coming to the end of its life cycle. Marie-Antoinette just do happened to be Queen just when the whole monarchy came crashing down, nothing she could have done to save a sinking ship.The French Monarchy basically imploded by greed, infighting, weak monarchs and a blind trust that somehow things were going to work out. The fact the coffers were empty and 50% of the budget went toward debt financing (interest payments at exorbitant rates) because they didn't have a central bank, wasn't a big deal until the poor came knocking at the front door of Versailles and demanded bread, together with the cook (King), his wife (Marie-Antoinette) and their children, which they hawled to Paris. That October 6th,1789, event marked the end of the French Monarchy for all intent and purposes.Her clothes was a pretext to attack Marie-Antoinette, the Austrian princess, she represented a bad alliance, the French/Austrian alliance of 1755/56, which costed France the 7-year war with the lost of its colonies in America. England simply couldn't believe their luck and promptly attacked with the results we know today.Marie-Antoinette was born the year this alliance was signed, thetefore it wasn't her fault but she ended up its victim like many others.I give it a 3, as it is way too focused on trying to fit a narrative as opposed to telling it like it was.
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