Corroseal Rust Converter & Metal Primer – Stops & Prevents Corrosion on Metal, Pro-Grade Rust Inhibitor for Cars, Trucks, Trailers, Marine & Industrial Equipment, 1 Gallon

So Far, Very Impressed !! Pick up a screwdriver or paint scraper, wire brush, foam brush, small empty container and neoprene gloves as it's sticky if you get it on you. Pour a little out into a small container (a little goes a long way) and apply to the rusted area. DO NOT POUR UNUSED MATERIAL BACK INTO THE NEW CONTAINER, It will contaminate the jug. I used a product in the late 80's or early 90's on my tailgate on a Ford Ranger that started to rust. It had a different name but it also went on like milk, then turned Black. I've purchased other converters since then that seemed "watered down" and didn't work nearly as effective. I assumed it had something to do with environmental or health concerns as to why I couldn't find it. It was of a different name but this is the same stuff. Worked wonders then, after two coats. It's not passed the test of time yet however, I have used it on my trailer and spots under my truck. This is environmentally friendly, non-toxic, non-corrosive, applies easily. I have nothing bad to say about it so far. Make sure you get all the loose rust off but NOT down to bare metal. It needs a little rust to stick. I had some drip onto the paint on my trailer, no big deal but it did "alter" the color of the paint. On bare metal, it seems to leave a film coating that comes off with my finger nail but over rust, you would have to sand it off. Very glad I found this rust converter again, It works GREAT. I see so many vehicles with rust destroying their cars in Pennsylvania snow/salt state. I can't believe drivers are unaware of this solution, after all, a smaller black patch may not look the best but a larger patch of rust looks much worse and that's where your small rust spot is headed. This may not be a "Professional" repair but it's also not at a "Professional repair cost". Sure, $53 is a lot of money but this stuff works and very easy to apply and over-all, its much less expensive to apply this than to ignore your rust spot. So easy anyone can do this and a gallon goes a long way. Even if you only did nothing to the rust and just applied it over the rust you would be much farther ahead. But if you do that, you'd have to wait until more of the rust flaked off (because it will if you don't first remove the flaking) but apply a little more over where it flaked off and your good to go. Also, if there are "paint bubbles" where rust is developing under the paint, remove the bubble, you will see rust under there. Apply Corroseal. I would highly recommend you get in there with a screwdriver without much pressure and remove the loose stuff and maybe go over it with a wire brush, clean the dust off, dry the area and apply, that's it and your resale value will show the difference as a small patch of this is better than a large patch of rust...You can also paint over this if you want, but you will still the area because it will not have the smooth texture of new paint, it will just hide it a little. Don't forget your undercarriage. If you live in a snow belt state and you have no rust yet, Wash the underside once a week but eventually a stone will break the paint seal and rust will start.

I wish I knew about this 15 years ago.... The amount of time I have spent painstakingly wire-wheeling off every spec of rust and obsessing over the prep for paint to restore old car parts is absurd. This has no horrific smells, toxic VOC's, and it is astonishingly stable and idiot-resistant to apply. Just hit the parts with a wire brush to knock the loose/heavy rust off, wipe down with a residue-free cleaner, and apply with whatever is most convenient. Turns rust black, uncoated steel a bluish color, and leaves a hard milky film over painted surfaces.

I really like Corroseal. This is the second truck frame I have used it on. Basically clean the metal and apply by spray, brush. I used a hand squeeze bottle and it worked great. It turns black after it cures. It will last longer with a top coat but I'm calling it good enough. It's so easy to apply I'll just treat as needed.

Just tried it, I may need more, so far it seems to work well, time will tell in new england under large truck

I have been meaning to restore the frame of my old second Gen Dodge ram. First I will caution don't be like me. I bought bla gallon of this stuff last year. Life happened and I never got to the project before new England winter came uninvited. I left the gallon outside in my shed. Gallon was sealed but shed isn't heated. When I finally stopped procrastinating and started project I opened the gallon and it had separated,top half was like water and bottom was solid. I figure this is from freezing over and over. But that was my fault. So this is how I used this stuff, I spent countless hours under truck with grinder using wire wheels and flap discs as well as a power hammer removing as much of the cancer as possible. Then I applied this stuff with a cheap chip brush. I worked better than I could have imagined. I applied multiple coats mostly because I had a gallon and it goes a long way. I tried different application methods and all worked. For instance I loaded up a small hand pump garden sprayer and applied it to the metal surface. Then spread it with brush, I feel the using the brush really gets it on the surface. This stuff is thin enough to spray on though. I could not be happier with the end result . I top coated this with fluid film black as an undercoat. I live in northern ma, we have salt on roads for half the year. Pictures speak for themselves. This is an awesome product that has given me consistent results. I'm happy to say I will absolutely use it on future projects.

Used it on restoring frame on my 2001 Tacoma. Easy to apply and results were impressive. I kept frame exposed to elements. Snow rain sun. It lasted well over a year absolutely no surface rust. I re applied . I assume if it was not exposed to elements it will last very long. Looks normal as opposed to tar sprays

When I read other reivews and it said, a little goes a long way - I ordered a gallon anyway. They were right - a little does go a long way. I used wire brushes and even a wire brush on my drill to remove the loose rust off an iron pole in my basement - holding up the center of the house. I figured the $50 I spent for a gallon of this was a good deal as opposed to waiting and having a contractor come in and replace a rusted pole, not to mention probable damage to the house. This stuff is great. After I washed and cleaned and dried the post, I scraped off the loose rust - then I put 1/4 cup of this in the bottom of a plastic bottle I had cut the top off of - leaving about 3" sides. Perfect for using with a foam brush to apply the Corroseal. I applied it 3 times as I worked on the pole - applying each application before the previous application was dry. Worked beautifully - and I have a black band around the post and it looks great. I have two more poles to remove the rust and apply the Corroseal to. I will do that this fall after the summer time heat and humidity are gone. I worked up a big sweat and got quite warm doing this in June. But, it needed to be done and I didn't want to wait on this pole. I highly recommend this stuff - oh yes, it will get your hands black if you get it on your hands and don't wash off. Luckily it removes with soap and water if you get it while it is still wet. When it dried I used finger nail polish remover and also a LOT of abrasive scrubbing to remove it from my hands as it had dried by the time I noticed it.

The product seems pretty good. But, as for the cap on the gallon size, please, give me a break. You need to put a little better quality into the seal. That cardboard just disintegrated after getting some of the product on it.

Formidable, certainement le seul véritable convertisseur de rouilles. Merci

I like the fact it neutralized the rust on my boat trailer & 4x4"s