---
product_id: 15102189
title: "SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2"
brand: "scc"
price: "145321CFA"
currency: XOF
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Scc"
url: https://www.desertcart.sn/products/15102189-scc-z-563-z-chain-extreme-performance-cable-tire-traction
store_origin: SN
region: Senegal
---

# Fast, no-move installation & removal Manganese alloy cross members for extreme durability Compatible with ABS, AWD & traction control systems SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2

**Brand:** scc
**Price:** 145321CFA
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ❄️ Grip the winter like a pro — don’t get left sliding behind!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2 by scc
- **How much does it cost?** 145321CFA with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sn](https://www.desertcart.sn/products/15102189-scc-z-563-z-chain-extreme-performance-cable-tire-traction)

## Best For

- scc enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted scc brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Space-Smart Design:** Meets SAE Class 'S' clearance for vehicles with limited wheel well space—no compromises on fit or safety.
- • **Unmatched Durability:** Manganese alloy cross members deliver superior traction and long-lasting performance that outlasts conventional chains.
- • **Effortless Installation:** Install or remove quickly without moving your vehicle—perfect for on-the-go professionals.
- • **Tech-Savvy Compatibility:** Seamlessly works with anti-lock brakes, traction control, and all-wheel drive systems for worry-free winter driving.
- • **Trusted by First Responders:** The go-to traction solution for police, fire, and ambulance fleets across North America—join the elite winter-ready drivers.

## Overview

The SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain set offers professional-grade winter traction with manganese alloy cross members for superior durability. Designed for fast, secure installation without moving your vehicle, it’s fully compatible with modern vehicle safety systems like ABS and AWD. Meeting SAE Class 'S' clearance, these chains fit vehicles with limited wheel well space, making them a trusted choice for emergency fleets and winter warriors alike.

## Description

For more than a decade Z-Chain has been the winter traction product choice for police, fire, ambulance and other professional fleets throughout North America. Z-Chain’s fast installation, aggressive traction performance and extreme durability simply out-class all other options.

Review: Everything you need to know about traction cables... - There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on the market, and even this particular company makes so many different models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the bottom of this review. There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them. You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables. In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck. Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device. There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case. Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products: Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel. Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them. Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile. On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void. Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together. Here are some hints on how to install these chains. 1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector and tighten it, (5) connect the lower front connector and tighten it, (6) drive for a bit, (7) retighten the front upper and lower connectors. The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you. 2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty. BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them! 3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier. 4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first. 5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back. 6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect. With this chain, there are multiple connector notches. Get the chain connected to whichever notch is easiest, and you can pull them tighter later. 7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire. 8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack. With this chain, there are multiple connector notches. Get the chain connected to whichever notch is easiest, and you can pull them tighter later. 9. Now, pull the top connector, which you attached in step 6, towards you firmly to remove the slack and tighten the connector. Repeat with the bottom connector. The top and bottom connectors should be within 1 notch of each other. 10. Drive your car a few feet and repeat step 9, above.
Review: Ease install and connections durability - I put these on to test fit and drive on dry pavement. The fit is snug and requires a little manipulation of the Tire position to completely lock. It in gloves should be used and an extra tension. Rubber set may not really be needed. From my experience with other chain sets, this is a quality set and will do well driving in the snow and on ice. Can’t wait to give it a try.

## Features

- Manganese Alloy Cross Members Provide Superior, All-Around Traction Performance And Greater Durability Compared To Conventional Traction Products
- Fast, Secure Installation And Removal, With No Need To Move The Vehicle
- Better Compatibility With Anti-Lock Brakes, Traction Control, All-Wheel Drive (Awd) And Other Electronically Monitored Control Systems
- Meets S.A.E. Class “S” Clearance Requirements Or Vehicles With Limited Clearance

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B000OAVLJ0 |
| Automotive Fit Type | Universal Fit |
| Best Sellers Rank | #94,904 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #6 in Passenger Car Snow Chains |
| Brand | SCC |
| Brand Name | SCC |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | all of the above |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 out of 5 stars 1,747 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00044182005569 |
| Included Components | Tire chain |
| Item Type Name | Tire chain |
| Item Weight | 5 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | Security Chain |
| Manufacturer Part Number | Z563 |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | Traction product warranty: All SCC winter traction products are warranted free from defect in workmanship and material for one year from the date of delivery to user. Defective product may be returned to the manufacture, freight prepaid, within 10 days of alled defective date. Inspection will be done to determine the cause of failure. Chain determined to be defective will be repaired or replaced. … |
| Material | Metal |
| Material Type | Metal |
| Model Number | Z-563 |
| UPC | 044182005569 |
| Unit Count | 2.0 Count |
| Vehicle Service Type | all of the above |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** SCC
- **Global Trade Identification Number:** 00044182005569
- **Item Weight:** 5 Pounds
- **Material:** Metal
- **Vehicle Service Type:** all of the above

## Images

![SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/711i9OV+cFL.jpg)
![SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91n4OUhGd0L.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: How do we know which model number to buy?**
A: The tire size should be on the side of your tire, or maybe on a sticker inside the door jamb. Once you know that you can use the dropdown menu here http://www.peerlesschain.com/tire-chain-finder/traction/tirechains to find the right model. They are very low-profile, and don't need much clearance at all. I've had mine about 5 years now - only need them a few times per winter here in Oklahoma - but they are fantastic.

**Q: I have a 2017 toyota sienna tire size 235/55r18. per the chart i need z571 but i have read reviews that this is not the correct size for my car? help?**
A: I would say got to the web site and put in your tire size. I would get the one the manufacture recommends.  
   I work Emergency services and have used these for more years than I can remember. I have a set in each of my personal vehicle.  
   An I am NOT a paid spokes person.  Just a fireman with an honest opinion.

**Q: Does anyone experience severe vibration when using these in anything but deep snow?  I never exceeded 30 mph.**
A: These chains will soon be destroyed by driving on bare pavement, and I am sure that there as 'vibration' as they wear-out.
One of the inherent problems with any type of tire-chain is 'cleared roadways'.
If vehicles with 'chains' ruled; the road would never be scraped and salted 'clean'.
These 'Cable Chains' are easy enough to install and remove that if you 'really' need to 'Go'; put them on for the snowy street . . remove them for the cleared highway, and repeat as often as needed.

**Q: Does these work for 235/50-19?**
A: Yes, it should work.  The sizing chart says so, plus I have experience with 235/55-18 size tires (Bridgestone Dueler Alenza specifically) which are a tiny bit loose with the Z-571s.  235/50-19 is a little larger, so I would think the fit would be better.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Everything you need to know about traction cables...
*by M***. on January 25, 2010*

There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on the market, and even this particular company makes so many different models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the bottom of this review. There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them. You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables. In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck. Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device. There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case. Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products: Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel. Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them. Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile. On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void. Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together. Here are some hints on how to install these chains. 1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector and tighten it, (5) connect the lower front connector and tighten it, (6) drive for a bit, (7) retighten the front upper and lower connectors. The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you. 2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty. BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them! 3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier. 4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first. 5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back. 6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect. With this chain, there are multiple connector notches. Get the chain connected to whichever notch is easiest, and you can pull them tighter later. 7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire. 8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack. With this chain, there are multiple connector notches. Get the chain connected to whichever notch is easiest, and you can pull them tighter later. 9. Now, pull the top connector, which you attached in step 6, towards you firmly to remove the slack and tighten the connector. Repeat with the bottom connector. The top and bottom connectors should be within 1 notch of each other. 10. Drive your car a few feet and repeat step 9, above.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Ease install and connections durability
*by A***R on May 9, 2026*

I put these on to test fit and drive on dry pavement. The fit is snug and requires a little manipulation of the Tire position to completely lock. It in gloves should be used and an extra tension. Rubber set may not really be needed. From my experience with other chain sets, this is a quality set and will do well driving in the snow and on ice. Can’t wait to give it a try.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ So these are good for the price, but . . .
*by C***N on February 5, 2026*

So these are good for the price, but . . . there are some caveats. 1.) I wouldn't expect to use these somewhere with a frequent need. I live in a place that gets snow/ice maybe 1-3 days a year. 2.) You need to be thorough with the install and check regularly during use, especially after hard breaking or spinning of the wheel. It says pull forward and re-tighen, this should be done 3-4 times and checked every time you stop. 3.) it says 30 mph or less, but I would stress less, like 20mph max. 4.) These are not suitable for offroad/mud use. A spinning tire that hits something hard like rock, will break. If it is gravel road with snow and ice, it can be used, but be absolutely sure to go slow and you are not spinning tires. If they do spin, immediately get out and check the chains. They are best used on paved, snow/ice covered roads. If it is patchy, be very careful you dont spin your tires. 5.) I don't recommend using them with a 2 wheel drive rear wheel drive vehicle. It puts too much torque and they will shift and potentially break. 4 wheel or front wheel drive only. With that said, they work well for the price. I have put 40+ miles on a set in really nasty stuff and they are still good during over 10 days of use, you just need to be adament at re-checking. They are convient to store in a vehicle as they don't take up much space and if you are mechanically minded fully understand the install, they are super easy to put on and take off. That is the main trade off. If you want limited emergency use that is small, light and easy to install, then get these. But if you want extreme durability for extreme conditions to use day after day, these are on the set to buy. All-in all, if these break I will likely buy them again.

## Frequently Bought Together

- SCC Z-563 Z-Chain Extreme Performance Cable Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2
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*Product available on Desertcart Senegal*
*Store origin: SN*
*Last updated: 2026-05-31*