HitLights 24 Watt (2 Amp) LED Power Supply 110V AC to 12V DC Transformer UL-Listed Lighting Power Adapter for LED Strip Lights and Other Low Voltage Devices

Worked great with RF Controller for COB light strip. It would power the whole 16' strip, but I only used 3' for my use. the plug was compatible with both the HILIGHTS Single color RF Remote (DC 5-24V) and the DTF -LIGHTING 12V FCOB strip light. Would buy again.

This power supply interfaces very well with the Hitlights 300 Led lighting strip which I also purchased in the same order. The project that I am working on is still being built (stained glass stands each of which support a glass paperweight which we created and now want to illuminate and display), so i have not installed it in its final configuration. Currently, after cutting, and resoldering the LED strip (transforming them from one long string into a group of 5 x 3 matrices), I use this power supply to test my design and solder joints. Later on - I will use it to power the lights on the display. So far It has been dependable, handling the load well with no flickering. I will get back to you when I have used it for a month or so in its final configuration.

This power source for the HitLights Blue LED lighting was very easy to install and use. I have never installed accent lighting and I have been looking for a colored light source for a while. I had been thinking about getting a colored light rope, but the during my searching I saw this product. After really giving it some consideration due to the length I was planning to accent (23 ft.) the splicing feature of this product made it very attractive to me. Once I figured out the splicing (it was very easy) I laid the LED lighting where I wanted it and plugged them in. WOW, the Blue LED likes are very bright and really hit the mark in what I was hoping to achieve!

I picked this up to go with a single strip of Hitlights I purchased to use as undercabinet lighting. This in a relatively inexpensive power supply that's sized to work with a single, standard 16.4 ft (5 meter) strip, and has a power connector that's specific to the Hitlights 300 LED strip. My only possible complaint would be that the cord is rather short... about 24 inches. Fortunately that's long enough for my application, but I could see where that could be a problem in some installations, and that's why I removed a star from my rating. I just purchased and installed the unit, so I have no feedback regarding it's life or durability at this point. If I experience any issues, I'll update this review accordingly.

I ordered HitLights Warm White SMD3528 LED Light Strip - 300 LEDs, 16.4 Ft Roll, Cut to length - 3000K, 82 Lumens / 1.5 Watts per foot, Requires 12V DC . When reading the description, it mentioned that you needed a 24 watt AC->DC adapter to power the LED strip. Since I didn't have one laying around, I was worried I wouldn't be able to find a good one in a timely manner. Well, lo and behold, HitLights, the same manufacturer that makes the light strip manufactures this adapter too. Because of that, I knew I'd have 100% compatibility. Great adapter!

Do you hate how dark it is inside your hall closet? I did, and I solved the problem by installing a Hitlights LS3528_WW_WP warm white LED strip all around the inside of the door frame, with this "transformer" plugged into the handy duplex outlet provided in the closet for the doorbell. (For technical folk: I put "transformer" in quotes because it's not really a transformer -- it's a universal-input, switching-type AC-DC power supply.) Yes, it does get warmer than I'd like in continuous operation, but I intended to use a door switch to turn the lights on only for the brief periods when the closet door is open. For safety and code-compliance reasons, I preferred not to switch the AC power to the transformer, so I had to evaluate the behavior of the transformer with the door switch in series with the low-voltage output. I plugged it into my Kill-a-Watt (get one, you'll love it) and was pleased to discover that with the output disconnected the transformer draws essentially zero power, so obviously it stays dead cool. The output voltage remained stable as I switched the LEDs on and off, and I concluded that switching the output was practical. I used an automotive-grade microswitch (similar to asin B0029N2S88) because of its high current rating at low voltage. I expect that the lower-cost item identified by another reviewer(asin B007TGO3HO) would behave similarly, but I have not tested it. A suggestion to Hitlights: Market a packaged adhesive-mount door switch, with matching barrel connectors, for cabinets, closets, safes, etc.!

Unfortunatly, the unit arrived to me dead on arrival. The packaging was just fine, and arrived undamaged, but would not power any lights, and when I checked the output with a Fluke multimeter, it registered 0.2V. The return process was very easy though. Update 01-21-2012: HitLights contacted me, and has offered to ship a replacement unit. As soon as I receive the unit, I'll update the review. Update 02-12-2013: I received the replacement unit a few days ago. The new one works properly, and fits the bill nicely. I've updated my rating from 1 star to 3. I've left off two for the matter of the first one being DOA, and the RMA process did not allow me to return directly for a replacement, but only a refund.

Purchased this to power 2/3'rds of a 18 Watt strand of 300 LED's and it was located in an enclosed area so it got slightly warm to the touch. After a while the lights would power-cycle, which is good, it didn't self destruct. I then moved the adapter to a less confined space powering a lower wattage strand (approximately 10 Watts) and it works great. Ended up buy a 48 Watt version for the original application but I would buy this again for lower wattage applications.

Ya llevo usándolo como un año y me a funcionado sin problemas, lo utilizo para mi recámara.