---
product_id: 133963282
title: "YTZ10S-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM Motorcycle Battery Compatible With Yamaha Honda"
brand: "weize"
price: "96438CFA"
currency: XOF
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Weize"
url: https://www.desertcart.sn/products/133963282-ytz10s-bs-high-performance-maintenance-free-sealed-agm-motorcycle-battery
store_origin: SN
region: Senegal
---

# 12V, 8.6AH AGM power Maintenance-free sealed design Extreme freeze & heat resistance YTZ10S-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM Motorcycle Battery Compatible With Yamaha Honda

**Brand:** weize
**Price:** 96438CFA
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Ride Ready, Weather Proof, Worry Free!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** YTZ10S-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM Motorcycle Battery Compatible With Yamaha Honda by weize
- **How much does it cost?** 96438CFA with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.sn](https://www.desertcart.sn/products/133963282-ytz10s-bs-high-performance-maintenance-free-sealed-agm-motorcycle-battery)

## Best For

- weize enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted weize brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Compact Yet Mighty:** Sized at 5.9 x 3.35 x 3.66 inches with 160 CCA for instant ignition power.
- • **All-Weather Warrior:** Built to withstand extreme temperatures and vibrations for unstoppable starts.
- • **Plug & Play Powerhouse:** Fits perfectly with Yamaha, Honda & more – no guesswork needed.
- • **Certified Quality Assurance:** ISO9001, CE & UL listed backed by a 1-year warranty and dedicated support.
- • **Zero Maintenance, Maximum Reliability:** Sealed AGM tech means no spills, no topping up, just pure performance.

## Overview

The Weize YTZ10S-BS is a sealed, maintenance-free 12V AGM motorcycle battery delivering 8.6AH capacity and 160 cold cranking amps. Engineered for extreme temperature and vibration resistance, it fits a wide range of Yamaha, Honda, KTM, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and BMW motorcycles and ATVs. Certified to ISO9001, CE, and UL standards, this compact powerhouse offers leak-proof reliability and a 1-year warranty, making it the go-to choice for riders demanding dependable starting power without the hassle of upkeep.

## Description

Product description They offer extreme freeze, heat ,extreme weather and vibration resistance. Weize maintenance-free powersports batteries offer excellent performance, reliability and long life. Leak-proof and spill-proof up to a 90° angle, AGM motorcycle batteries are ideal for motorcycles, scooters and motorsports vehicles subject to strong vibrations such as quads and snowmobiles. The Weize YTZ10S-BS is an excellent battery for motorcycles that feature a high cold cranking amp with a low self-discharge rate and high resistance to mechanical impact and vibrations. It is ideal for use as a cranking or starting battery for motorcycles due to the large bursts of power it provides during startup. YTZ10S-BS motorcycle battery has the following characteristics Maintenance-Free Design, also known as factory activated motorcycle batteries. Spillproof and Leakproof Design UL, CE and ISO 9001 Certified Absorbed Glass Mat Design(AGM) Valve Regulated Vent System Extreme Freeze, Heat and Vibration Resistance Superior Starting Power and Deep Cycle Capacity YTZ10S BS Battery Specifications Dimensions: (L) 5.91 in x (W) 3.43 in x (H) 4.25 in Weight: 6.16 Lbs CCA: 160 Voltage: 12V Capacity (10 hours rate): 8.6AH Charge Current (A): 0.8A Case Material: ABS Separator: AGM They differ from Conventional Motorcycle Batteries in that they do not need constant care and addition of water, which saves you a lot of time and effort. They also will not spill acid and have a slower discharge rate than the conventional batteries. Compatible With(Click”Ctrl+F”to find your model) ATV Yamaha YFM35R Raptor; Motorcycle Aprilia RSV4 R, Factory, BMW G560 X, Challenge, Country, Moto,HP4 (w/ alarm system),S1000R,S1000RR,S1000RR DWA,S1000XR DWA, Honda CB1000R,CB500X, F, CB650F, FA,CB650R, RA,CB900F (919),CBF1000F,CBR1000RA (ABS),CBR1000RR,CBR500R,CBR600F4i, 600RR,CBR600RR, RA,CBR650F,CBR650F, RA,CBR929RR, RE,CBR954RR,VT600C, CD Shadow Deluxe,Husqvarna 701 Enduro, Supermoto, Ninja 650, ABS,Ninja H2, H2R,Ninja ZX-10RR,Vulcan S ABS, CAFÉ, SE,Z650 ABS,ZX10R (non ABS),ZX10R WITH ABS,KTM Duke,Duke II, LC4, Adventure,Enduro R,SMC, SXC,SMC-R,Supermoto, SM R, MV Agusta Brutale,Brutale 1078RR, 1090,F3, Brutale,F4, Brutale, Suzuki GSX-R1000, A, GSX-R1000, Z, AL8,GSX-R1000AV,GSX-S1000, A, F, FA, Yamaha FJ-09,FZ-07,FZ-09,FZ-10,FZ8,MT-10,MT07,MT09,MXT9 Niken,Tracer,Tracer 900 GT,XSR700,XSR900, XTZ7MB,YZF-R1, M,YZF-R6 (Excl. R6S); Scooter Yamaha Maxam, Morphous,T-MAX XP500; It fits many types of ATV, motorcycles, scooters

Review: Do you own a Chrylser Pacifica with start/stop? This is for you - Like many, many other Pacifica owners I was getting the dreaded "Start/Stop System Requires Service" notification on my wife's 2018 van. This went on for several months and I didn't really think much of it. I did do some reading about the system however; it looked very confusing--so I left it alone. We don't really like the feature anyway (for those who don't know--and yet still care to know--this is the system that allows the car to turn off at stop lights and such and then restart as soon as the driver's foot lifts off the brake pedal. It's supposed to save $ on gas). Then, my wife called me from Costco to tell me that her car won't start. She called me back about 10 minutes later and said the car had now started and that a bunch of warning lights had popped up on her dash. We now had several warning lights up on the dash: the symbol for the start/stop system (which was nothing new...this one had been on for weeks) and now the check engine light was on. Correlation is not causation but I assumed that the start/stop system had something to do with this. Great. Now I was going to have to take the thing back to the dealership and offer to trade them my first born son in exchange for making this right. First, however, I decided to do some sleuthing. Digging in to my bag of tricks, I busted out my multi-meter and tested the battery. Low and behold, it read 12.5 volts--indicating the battery was JUST hangin' on. I tested it again a bit later and it was lower, reading 12.3, then 12.2. I figured I was probably on to something. Here's the (tricky) thing: these dang machines have TWO batteries! One big primary battery (the crank battery) and one small auxiliary battery (which is used by the start/stop system. You know this already because you are shopping for a small auxiliary battery and reading this review). The things is, you can't really check the voltage of just one when they are both in the vehicle and connected in parallel. Both batteries will read the same voltage. So, I knew that one of the batteries was dead but didn't know which one. I took a chance and ordered this battery, at the time hoping I wouldn't have to also fork out $200 on a new primary (crank) battery. Fun story: I had to buy a new crank battery, too. So, the new battery arrived on Sunday (yesterday) and I started disassembling the old batteries out of the van. Remember when removing a battery used to just be a strap over the battery and disconnected the negative and then positive terminals? Ha! No more! It took me darn near 45 minutes to get the two batteries out (for the record you need a 13mm and 10mm socket). The small battery has to come out first; the crank battery does not have room to come out unless you pull the auxiliary first. I got the auxiliary out and inspected it to the new replacement: they looked very similar in size and the labels indicated very similar properties in terms of capacity and such. The one big difference--and this was noted by another reviewer to my benefit--the old battery had posts mounted to each of the positive and negative terminals and the new battery had bolts that were supposed to connect through the terminal and then into a square receiving bolt. The problem was, the bolts that came with the new battery are rather short and--at first glance--don't appear like they will work. I'm getting ahead of myself in this story but when I went to put the new battery in I was able to make these bolts/nuts fit by cutting a rubber band in half, folding the rubber band over itself to about 3/8" height, and then squeeze the square receiving nut into the battery terminal with the battery under it. This pushed the receiving nut up and tight against the underside of the terminal and made it so that when I pushed the bolt down through the terminal the threads would catch. Saved me from buying longer bolts (a savings of probably 50 cents--still, it worked!) Now that I had the auxiliary battery out and it looked like it would work, I decided to pull the main battery and take it to an auto parts retailer to have them check it. The first one I drove to closed literally as I pulled in (because of course it did). The second, an Autozone, checked the battery for me: they measured it at 75% cranking power while at full charge and labelled it "dead." Gone are the days of a battery slowing dying; cars now are entirely electronically controlled. My suspicion is that if the car reads a certain level of battery it just stops working. There is no slow turning of the starter like on older vehicles. The Pacifica seems to be especially hard on batteries and so won't take anything but the battery's very best. Once performance falls below a certain point it is "dead" for all intensive purposes. $203 later, I had a new battery with a 36 month warranty. I took the new battery home, installed the big/crank battery first, then the auxiliary battery (then removed them both again because I had put the crank battery in backward). I reversed the multitude of cable connections to the battery exactly as they were before and...it worked! After a few miles of the car telling me the start/stop system was unavailable because the battery was charging, it became available and I had the joy of being able to turn up my music with the windows down so that everyone around me could listen to what I was listening to without the annoyance of the engine idling. I bet I looked PRETTY cool in my mini-van. With functioning start/stop. Long story short, this battery worked for what I bought it for. I have no idea how long it will last but--considering all other options for this battery are well over $100--even if I have to replace it twice, or even three times, as often, I still won't be losing much by giving it a try. I'll update this review if it fails ridiculously fast.
Review: Working fine so far/ 2 year update - 2 year update: Well, the battery finally died. I went to restart my bike at a gas station and the instrument cluster was completely dead. Not dim-- DEAD. I thought my ignition switch had failed or I'd popped the main fuse. I keep a tool kit with me when I ride my bike, and 2 of the tools are a multimeter and a small, portable jump pack. The battery showed just under 10V. I'm guessing one of the cells shorted or died altogether. If so, there was no warning. It cranked and started fine 5 minutes earlier, then refused to start after I'd ridden to the corner gas station and filled the tank. Just like that, dead as a doornail. I jumped the bike and got it home. Now I'm waiting for another battery to come in. I would've liked to have gotten more than 2 years out of this battery, especially since I keep it on a tender/maintainer when it's parked at home (which is 99% of the time). Having said that, between the high vibration and the fact that my motorcycle's regulator-rectifier outputs something like 15.5V all the time (by design, according to the service manual), this battery has led a somewhat hard life. I also managed to run it completely dead once by leaving the key on, which was my fault and which is the kiss of death for lead acid batteries. In all, I got my money's worth out of this battery. This time around, however, I'm going with a more expensive Energizer battery. Why? Because the model I bought before is not currently available from Weize, and none of the other options look particularly appealing. The Energizer is about twice the price. Let's see if it ends up being twice as good. Original review below: The battery on my motorcycle died after a few too many deep discharges and extended cranking. It wouldn't hold a charge no matter what I did, and even desulfating it didn't help. It had lived its life and was now in the great beyond. If you've ever tried to buy a motorcycle battery, you know that the size designations are not always as well laid out as they are for cars. A bunch of fitment guides gave me conflicting info, and even desertcart's parts guide didn't show me all of the available batteries. Such is life when you own an old bike. I cross-referenced the number on my old battery (Yuasa YB14L-B2) to this battery. The price for this AGM battery was lower than I could find for a replacement Yuasa SLA (sealed lead acid, IE wet) battery, and WAY lower than just about anything from a local parts store. I double-checked the dimensions, crossed my fingers, and ordered it. As soon as the battery arrived, I put a battery tender/maintainer on it. I didn't know when I'd be able to install it and I didn't want a dead battery when I finally got around to it. The battery registered as fully charged on my tender. A voltage check of the terminals showed 12.6V, which also correlates to 100% charge. So far so good. I installed the battery about a week later. Installation was easy and all the included hardware (metric machine screws and square nuts) worked fine. I greased the terminals to keep corrosion at bay, hit the key, and the bike cranked and eventually started. The starter spun with no problems at all. I've put a little less than 200 miles on the bike in the last week or so and the battery has worked fine. Both cold and hot starts have been effortless. I keep the battery on a tender for peace of mind but I don't think I need to unless I'm storing the bike for the winter. We'll see how long it lasts-- bike batteries lead short, brutal lives because of the vibration, but AGMs are supposed to combat this. Time will tell. As of right now, this battery has been a good choice.

## Features

- YTZ10S-BS is Maintenace Free 12V 8.6AH AGM Sealed Battery, Dimensions: 5.9 x 3.35 x 3.66 in, ISO9001/CE/UL Listed,parcel comes with the Battery and Screws. Terminal： Left : Positive (+)-Red, Right: Negative (-)-Black.
- Size, cold cranking amps, terminal location and battery type are key pieces to getting the right unit. please measure your old battery and compare the dimensions with this battery, if the measurements are the same, positive and negative poles are consistent, CCA is no big difference, it will fit for your vehicle. It is recommended to replace the battery every two years to prevent the motorcycle from failing to start.
- Replacement BTZ10S Compatible with Yamaha ATV 2004-2013 Years YFM35R Raptor, Motorcycle Model:Aprilia RSV4 R, Factory,BMW G560 X, Challenge, Country, Moto,HP4 (w/ alarm system),S1000R,S1000RR,S1000RR DWA,S1000XR DWA.
- Compatible With Honda Motorcycle CB1000R,CB500X, F,CB650F, FA,CB900F (919),CBF1000F,CBR1000RA (ABS),CBR1000RR,CBR500R,CBR600F4i, 600RR,CBR600RR, RA,CBR650F,CBR929RR, RE,CBR954RR,VT600C, CD Shadow Deluxe; KTM Duke,Duke II, LC4, Adventure,Enduro R,SMC, SXC,Supermoto, SM R,Kawasaki Motorcycle Ninja 650, ABS,Ninja H2, H2R,Ninja ZX-10RR,Vulcan S ABS, CAFÉ, SE,Z650 ABS,ZX10R, ABS, Suzuki GSX-R1000, A, Yamaha FJ-09,FZ-07,FZ-09,FZ-10,FZ8,MT07,MT09,XSR700,XSR900,YZF-R1, M,YZF-R6 (Excl. R6S).
- 1 Years warranty! We aim for quality followed up with quality customer service, please contact the seller directly. Weize support team is on standby for you.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B07SC7K9FL |
| Battery Cell Composition | Lead Acid |
| Battery Type | Lead Acid |
| Best Sellers Rank | #70 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #1 in Powersports Batteries |
| Brand | WEIZE |
| Brand Name | WEIZE |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | ATV |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 out of 5 stars 57,924 Reviews |
| Item Dimensions D x W x H | 3.42"D x 5.9"W x 3.69"H |
| Item Type Name | YTZ10S Battery |
| Item Weight | 2 Kilograms |
| Manufacturer | WEIZE (GUANGDONG TONGLI POWER TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD) |
| Manufacturer Part Number | YTZ10S |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | 1 Year |
| Model Number | YTZ10S-BS |
| Size | YTZ10S-BS |
| UPC | 784237348738 |
| Vehicle Service Type | ATV |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Battery Cell Composition:** Lead Acid
- **Brand:** WEIZE
- **Item Weight:** 2 Kilograms
- **Manufacturer:** WEIZE (GUANGDONG TONGLI POWER TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD)
- **Product Dimensions:** 3.42"D x 5.9"W x 3.69"H
- **Size:** YTZ10S-BS
- **UPC:** 784237348738
- **Vehicle Service Type:** ATV
- **Voltage:** 12 Volts

## Images

![YTZ10S-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM Motorcycle Battery Compatible With Yamaha Honda - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71RyWtuKHuL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Does it come with the bolts to go onto the battery?**
A: Yes it comes with the little post nuts and bolts.

**Q: Hey whats the cca ratinv on this?**
A: 190 cca is the correct answer

**Q: Will this fit a 2007 cbr600rr? I know that’s an off year for the bike, so has anyone tried?**
A: It fits my 2002 Honda cab 900f “Honda 919” aka Honda hornet.

I don’t know if that helps you.

**Q: Kawasaki ninja ZX6r compatible?**
A: Yes it will work for the Ninja will fit in the battery compartment and the cranking amps will work as well.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Do you own a Chrylser Pacifica with start/stop? This is for you
*by Z***H on April 19, 2021*

Like many, many other Pacifica owners I was getting the dreaded "Start/Stop System Requires Service" notification on my wife's 2018 van. This went on for several months and I didn't really think much of it. I did do some reading about the system however; it looked very confusing--so I left it alone. We don't really like the feature anyway (for those who don't know--and yet still care to know--this is the system that allows the car to turn off at stop lights and such and then restart as soon as the driver's foot lifts off the brake pedal. It's supposed to save $ on gas). Then, my wife called me from Costco to tell me that her car won't start. She called me back about 10 minutes later and said the car had now started and that a bunch of warning lights had popped up on her dash. We now had several warning lights up on the dash: the symbol for the start/stop system (which was nothing new...this one had been on for weeks) and now the check engine light was on. Correlation is not causation but I assumed that the start/stop system had something to do with this. Great. Now I was going to have to take the thing back to the dealership and offer to trade them my first born son in exchange for making this right. First, however, I decided to do some sleuthing. Digging in to my bag of tricks, I busted out my multi-meter and tested the battery. Low and behold, it read 12.5 volts--indicating the battery was JUST hangin' on. I tested it again a bit later and it was lower, reading 12.3, then 12.2. I figured I was probably on to something. Here's the (tricky) thing: these dang machines have TWO batteries! One big primary battery (the crank battery) and one small auxiliary battery (which is used by the start/stop system. You know this already because you are shopping for a small auxiliary battery and reading this review). The things is, you can't really check the voltage of just one when they are both in the vehicle and connected in parallel. Both batteries will read the same voltage. So, I knew that one of the batteries was dead but didn't know which one. I took a chance and ordered this battery, at the time hoping I wouldn't have to also fork out $200 on a new primary (crank) battery. Fun story: I had to buy a new crank battery, too. So, the new battery arrived on Sunday (yesterday) and I started disassembling the old batteries out of the van. Remember when removing a battery used to just be a strap over the battery and disconnected the negative and then positive terminals? Ha! No more! It took me darn near 45 minutes to get the two batteries out (for the record you need a 13mm and 10mm socket). The small battery has to come out first; the crank battery does not have room to come out unless you pull the auxiliary first. I got the auxiliary out and inspected it to the new replacement: they looked very similar in size and the labels indicated very similar properties in terms of capacity and such. The one big difference--and this was noted by another reviewer to my benefit--the old battery had posts mounted to each of the positive and negative terminals and the new battery had bolts that were supposed to connect through the terminal and then into a square receiving bolt. The problem was, the bolts that came with the new battery are rather short and--at first glance--don't appear like they will work. I'm getting ahead of myself in this story but when I went to put the new battery in I was able to make these bolts/nuts fit by cutting a rubber band in half, folding the rubber band over itself to about 3/8" height, and then squeeze the square receiving nut into the battery terminal with the battery under it. This pushed the receiving nut up and tight against the underside of the terminal and made it so that when I pushed the bolt down through the terminal the threads would catch. Saved me from buying longer bolts (a savings of probably 50 cents--still, it worked!) Now that I had the auxiliary battery out and it looked like it would work, I decided to pull the main battery and take it to an auto parts retailer to have them check it. The first one I drove to closed literally as I pulled in (because of course it did). The second, an Autozone, checked the battery for me: they measured it at 75% cranking power while at full charge and labelled it "dead." Gone are the days of a battery slowing dying; cars now are entirely electronically controlled. My suspicion is that if the car reads a certain level of battery it just stops working. There is no slow turning of the starter like on older vehicles. The Pacifica seems to be especially hard on batteries and so won't take anything but the battery's very best. Once performance falls below a certain point it is "dead" for all intensive purposes. $203 later, I had a new battery with a 36 month warranty. I took the new battery home, installed the big/crank battery first, then the auxiliary battery (then removed them both again because I had put the crank battery in backward). I reversed the multitude of cable connections to the battery exactly as they were before and...it worked! After a few miles of the car telling me the start/stop system was unavailable because the battery was charging, it became available and I had the joy of being able to turn up my music with the windows down so that everyone around me could listen to what I was listening to without the annoyance of the engine idling. I bet I looked PRETTY cool in my mini-van. With functioning start/stop. Long story short, this battery worked for what I bought it for. I have no idea how long it will last but--considering all other options for this battery are well over $100--even if I have to replace it twice, or even three times, as often, I still won't be losing much by giving it a try. I'll update this review if it fails ridiculously fast.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Working fine so far/ 2 year update
*by Z***L on October 9, 2023*

2 year update: Well, the battery finally died. I went to restart my bike at a gas station and the instrument cluster was completely dead. Not dim-- DEAD. I thought my ignition switch had failed or I'd popped the main fuse. I keep a tool kit with me when I ride my bike, and 2 of the tools are a multimeter and a small, portable jump pack. The battery showed just under 10V. I'm guessing one of the cells shorted or died altogether. If so, there was no warning. It cranked and started fine 5 minutes earlier, then refused to start after I'd ridden to the corner gas station and filled the tank. Just like that, dead as a doornail. I jumped the bike and got it home. Now I'm waiting for another battery to come in. I would've liked to have gotten more than 2 years out of this battery, especially since I keep it on a tender/maintainer when it's parked at home (which is 99% of the time). Having said that, between the high vibration and the fact that my motorcycle's regulator-rectifier outputs something like 15.5V all the time (by design, according to the service manual), this battery has led a somewhat hard life. I also managed to run it completely dead once by leaving the key on, which was my fault and which is the kiss of death for lead acid batteries. In all, I got my money's worth out of this battery. This time around, however, I'm going with a more expensive Energizer battery. Why? Because the model I bought before is not currently available from Weize, and none of the other options look particularly appealing. The Energizer is about twice the price. Let's see if it ends up being twice as good. Original review below: The battery on my motorcycle died after a few too many deep discharges and extended cranking. It wouldn't hold a charge no matter what I did, and even desulfating it didn't help. It had lived its life and was now in the great beyond. If you've ever tried to buy a motorcycle battery, you know that the size designations are not always as well laid out as they are for cars. A bunch of fitment guides gave me conflicting info, and even Amazon's parts guide didn't show me all of the available batteries. Such is life when you own an old bike. I cross-referenced the number on my old battery (Yuasa YB14L-B2) to this battery. The price for this AGM battery was lower than I could find for a replacement Yuasa SLA (sealed lead acid, IE wet) battery, and WAY lower than just about anything from a local parts store. I double-checked the dimensions, crossed my fingers, and ordered it. As soon as the battery arrived, I put a battery tender/maintainer on it. I didn't know when I'd be able to install it and I didn't want a dead battery when I finally got around to it. The battery registered as fully charged on my tender. A voltage check of the terminals showed 12.6V, which also correlates to 100% charge. So far so good. I installed the battery about a week later. Installation was easy and all the included hardware (metric machine screws and square nuts) worked fine. I greased the terminals to keep corrosion at bay, hit the key, and the bike cranked and eventually started. The starter spun with no problems at all. I've put a little less than 200 miles on the bike in the last week or so and the battery has worked fine. Both cold and hot starts have been effortless. I keep the battery on a tender for peace of mind but I don't think I need to unless I'm storing the bike for the winter. We'll see how long it lasts-- bike batteries lead short, brutal lives because of the vibration, but AGMs are supposed to combat this. Time will tell. As of right now, this battery has been a good choice.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good battery...but new??
*by M***K on April 30, 2026*

This battery arrived with a good charge in good factory packaging. It has performed well and has held its charge so far. The only reason I deduct one star is because the connection posts did not look like a new battery. Scratched, dinged up and discolored as if the battery was used before, or possiblyreconditioned. Not sure why that is, but when I buy something described as new, I expect it to look that way, whether it's functioning is good or not.

## Frequently Bought Together

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*Product available on Desertcart Senegal*
*Store origin: SN*
*Last updated: 2026-07-25*