WINKA T10 W5W 194 Bulbs Sockets Pre-Wired Harness Connector Adapter for Auto Car 6PCS

I used this socket to fix the glove box light on a 2009 Boxster. The OEM part strangely used four copper fingers to hold and power light and I was unable to get the replacement light to work because the fingers got bent, I guess. What I did to fix was cut off the fingers and solder this socket to the residual copper terminals. I confirmed that the light now works by powering directly off the battery, however somehow I must have momentarily shorted the circuit when I was trying to get the fingers to work and it turns out that this glove box light is not powered thru the fuse box, instead it has a some kind of fusible link in the wiring harness, at least according to the more knowledgeable folks in the internet. Replacing the harness requires disassembly of dash board around the glove box so I might not get to this for a while.

I use these to replace broken plugs on trailer and old vehicles. These are easy to install and a great value. These are perfect.

These T10 bulb sockets have many generic uses. For me, I was changing out some obsolete bulb sockets on my 1980 Triumph TR7. The lights in question are the ambient lighting for the heater controls, which were not factory backlit. Using the original style bulbs through the old green lens ports produced a very poor light. It originally used Lucas 286 bulbs but could be replaced with LED BA7S bulbs. The problem is the BA7S LED bulbs I have found are total garbage and put out even less light than the stock 40 year old Incandescent bulbs! The only option was to slightly modify the lighting system. I would be using nice bright blue T10 LED bulbs and five of these sockets. Four lights are needed for the heater and one light was needed for the cigarette lighter socket. Because these are bigger than the original sockets and bulbs, I removed the original metal heater light brackets and enlarged the cigarette lighter socket bulb clip to hold one of these sockets with an LED bulb in it. Then I snipped the factory wires off at the source and added a quick connect plug. I kept and boxed up all the parts so it can quickly be returned to factory original if need be (always a good idea!). Then I attached new wires to the bulb sockets and used a hot glue gun to secure the four heater light sockets in place. The hot glue gun was not my first choice but it was quick and easily removable, and worked really well. I then inserted the T10 LEDs and put the dash back together. These sockets worked perfectly and did exactly what I wanted them to do, even if it’s not what their original intention was when I bought them. Now all my instrument lighting is a bright yet easy on the eyes blue which is a vast improvement over the factory barely there dull green lighting. I wanted to give an example of the million and one uses these light sockets have. If you wanted to add multiple under dash lights, extra trunk (boot) lights or whatever, these are cheap and easy to install. T10 bulbs are also common and relatively cheap and adding up to six lights in various areas of your car with these will more than likely be cheaper than a Big Mac value meal at McDonalds. All I can say is that I need to order more of these again because I have more lighting ideas that I want to try out.

I use these for indicator bulbs on custom dash panels. and bright, 12v power, easy to use. So far, lifespan is great. No flickering.

I used this to replace some old bulb sockets on a dash cluster of an old tractor. The wiring to the sockets had been chewed on by rats, the socket itself which was completely rubber basically dry rotted . These were a tad smaller but they still fit tight enough into the bezel to work. A great replacement part.

I bought these for the bow light of my 1980 Boston Whaler. They fit perfectly in the hole for the original bow light. I was also able to make a stern light for emergencies. I used a piece of PEX 1/2 tubing and ran the wiring through it to the light then just put a piece of flex tape on the top. The socket fits perfectly in a 1/2 PEX.

Used these to replace the failing corroded socket on a few old wall low voltage landscape lights. It does the job and accept most small wedge bulbs for automotive or led landscape bulbs but they are very cheaply made. The connector inside the rubber surround will crush with any small force like using a plier to insert it where you are going to mount it. I destroyed two getting them trying to get it into the light’s mounting bracket. The copper wires inside the wire insulation are also very thin and snap easily after you solder them.

The 60 year old address number bulbs blew out years ago, took one out to try to find replacement (before the internet). Never did get replacements. sockets rusted up. Got LED bulbs here on amazon and these sockets, got my old light working again.

I ordered these to run a custom LED harness to my cluster because the backlit display stopped working. These can be used for many different applications. Would buy again, but I still have a few left.

They fit perfect

Bien et facile à utiliser

If i could give a lower rating; I would. -thw positive contact on EVERY socket is 1/8" higher than the opposing contact; so the bulb can't seat properly and make a connection. Because of this; only one socket was actually usable. -Due to the extremely flexible rubber these are made from; they won't properly lock into a t10 light housing. They literally fall right back out... Overall; completely useless. Now I have to order another set from a REPUTABLE manufacturer and wait even longer....

the quality isn't all that good