AiLi Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter Voltmeter Ammeter 100V 350A Caravan RV Motorhome 999 AH

Worked perfectly right out of the box. Nice heavy duty acrylic base and super heavy hardware. Simple operation is refreshing in this overly gimmicky app-inundated world we live in. Some other manufacturers could take notes from this monitor!Others have said there is no way to secure it into your cutout if you can’t access the back. I can confirm that. However , a 2 1/8” hole saw produces a perfect fit in plywood. I didn’t need it but one could add a single layer of electrical tape around the perimeter for a super snug fit.Yes, cord is too short. Ended up being just enough for my application. You can extend it without too much trouble. It’s a standard 5 pin JST-XH.Battery sampling wire I used was 18awg. The screw terminals on top of the unit worked great. Philips, very small. Consider tinning the end of your wire and then smashing it flat and trimming it square for a good connection. 18 gauge is probably about as big as it will accept.Even the backlight is great. When the backlight is turned off the screen still glows ever so slightly so you can read it. Perfect for nighttime in the woods. The screen is quite shiny so consider glare from windows when installing.The accuracy of any monitor depends on your configuration! For my one year old AGMs I used 50% of the rated capacity and charged them up fully with a good 3 stage charger before connecting this monitor. Then set the current SOC to 100 and forgot about it. I set zero % SOC voltage to 10.1. Have a couple weeks camping in the RV so far with good results.

Got this monitor for my Chevy Roadtrek RV based on its simplicity and price. I wasn't disappointed a bit. Simple installation (except that you will need a cable to go from the shunt to the positive post of the battery--something I had to fabricate for myself) and the monitor pops into a 2 1/8" hole. Works from the get-go. Calibrate it, and from then on you can read off the percentage of charge in the battery, both when charging and discharging.Things to be aware of:1. You will need to make up your own cable from one side of the shunt to the + side of the battery.2. The connecting cable they give you from the shunt to the monitor is much too short. I had to slice in a 5-conductor cable of my own making.3. The instructions say the hole size of 50.4 mm (or something like that). Try to find hole saw that size. Turns out a 2 1/8" hole saw will make a perfect size hole.4. The instructions are in ity-bity font size, and the graphics of the buttons are pitifully small and impossible to read. I had to take a picture, enlarge it and put my own icons on the result to be able to figure out what to do.5. The button labels are hard to read. Too small and the graphics have almost no contrast.Now, if you are ok with all that, you will have a fine little battery monitor that tells you pretty much all you need to know about the state of your battery. I like mine and didn't mind that it turned out to be a project to install it.

first of all it is ridiculous that they don't include the small red wire used to power the unit from the red terminal, it would cost them five cents. minus one star for that.second you should know that the cable from the meter will not plug directly into the shunt, but rather the long extension cable is actually an adapter cable that must be used to make the connection. kind of annoying if you don't need the length.that being said I did a quick and dirty install for my trolling motor and the unit was easy to set up and seems to work well.as for accuracy, my understanding is that this does not actually monitor your battery, but works more like your electric meter at home, just measuring the current that runs past it. it works on the assumption that your battery is still functioning at peak amp hours and is fully charged. still that should be good enough for most purposes.

I love this gauge so far. I've only been using it for 3 months. It's very sensitive, it will show that I'm drawing from the battery even if I have a single LED light open in the RV. It seems accurate so far, but I don't have an other measuring tool to compare it to... I've purchased the 350A model and I was able to configure it for my 200 Ah batteries, despite what others are saying (maybe I have a newer firmware).The difficulty come from the installation. The flange on the display is TINY, see the 3rd picture. That means that you need to use a hole saw that is of the exact diameter and that you need to be very careful not to damage the cabinet wood as the flange will not cover any mistakes. Also the wire that comes with the kit is very short. I've had to extend mine, I've used Category 5 network cable and it did a good job. When I was stapling the wires in place I'be shorted the white and the yellow... the wires became really hot but it looks like it did not damage the unit. The mounting gear is pretty fragile but IT DOES the job, when I looked at the cheap plastic nut I thought I'd have to come up with something better, but it really holds in place and the display is very light. I've installed it near the door so I can see it when we're closing the RV and making sure everything is turned off.To attach the shunt to the battery, I've used a few inches of a 1/2" copper pipe that I've flattened with a hammer and drilled 2 holes at each end. Then bent the flatten copper to an S shape so connect to the battery negative and to the shunt. I've made 2 of those that I've stacked just to make sure it could handle the current. See the second picture.NOTE: It's pretty bright at night, make sure you don't mount the display facing where you sleep. the display turns on when it's charging the battery, or when you're drawing current from the battery. Also note that with only the smoke detector and the monoxide detector drawing from the battery, it does not detect these as drawing any current from the battery and closes the back light and shows that no current is drawn.I'm very satisfied so far, Martin Politick August 2019.