Jtc Fender Roller Tool Lip Rolling Extending Tools Auto Body Shop

This is the standard for rolling fenders... Looks like any other one out it the market regardless of brand.. Has various mounting holes to position the roller arm to best fit your vehicle. I have used it on 4 different cars so far (Honda civic, Honda Accord, Lexus sc300, Mitsu Evo.) and have fit all of these with no problem. No instructions so you have to use youtube.ALWAYS use a heat gun when using a fender roller. It prevents cracking of the paint or other oddities. Also remember that if there is ANY rust around the fender or quarter panel area, DO NOT ROLL THE FENDER. Rust, being brittle, will crack and not bend(roll) and is almost always visible from the outside. Get a professionals opinion or get a quote to repair rust before rolling. Or just cut the fenders smooth.Comes with 5 lug nut adapters, all cone shaped. Strange since 3 is usually more than enough to hold the tool in place. Wish it came with extra parts or a part numbers for spare parts. The roller does get beat up pretty bad and may develope cuts or scars. These scars may hurt the paint of what your rolling and should always have some touch up paint just in case.

Not too bad. But you will need to open up the lug holes if you’re using this on anything European. Like 5x112 pattern. Aside that for what it’s worth it worked decent

This former rolls inside fender seams/lips beautifully! It comes with absolutely no instructions but is easily understood by those who are mechanically astute. Others should seek help to understand it as I read the blogs here and a lot were disappointed with it. Tips: Lubricate the long threaded rod that does a lot of work with wheel bearing grease and really make it's job easier, and remember, thread it in slowly as you work the Poly wheel back and forth and slowly work the lip upward. Also, change the angle of the Poly wheel from almost horizontal at first to 20º then 30º then 40º etc..etc, as you lay the lip back and away from the tire and towards the inside of the fender. You will know when to stop when the fender starts bulging out at you! L0L! Most of all....be patient and you will amaze yourself if this is the first one you have ever done....like it was for me. My wide 295's no longer grind against those missing lips!

Although I got this product to work on my 2000 Honda civic, I had to modify it extensively. The bolt that is welded on to the frame to lock down the rolling wheel was not welded on straight. I had to cut the weld and straighten the nut and reweld in place. Then the rolling wheel will not fold over far enough to make the roll start on my Honda. I had to notch out the frame of the roller to allow the wheel to fold over far enough. Then I realized that the unit will not adjust down far enough to fit in the smaller wheel wells of my civic. I cut a quarter inch off the top of the arm to allow the roller holder to slide down far enough to start the rolling of the fender. After all the mods to this roller it worked, but it was a pain in the butt. I realize that this issue will be specific to 90's Hondas and other small cars and this unit might work fine on cars that came with larger wheels. This was just my experience; your use case might be different.

The bolt pattern is cut very sloppy and you have to pound it on. I tried to use this on a 5x120 bolt pattern for BMW wheels and I have a slightly larger hub center bore on my E39 540i which is 74.1mm. This would not fit over that but only for one reason. The part of the circle by the actual tube was bulging out slightly so it wasn't completely round. I tried it with a smaller 72.56 bore on my adapter spacers and it still wouldn't fit because of that bulge. So I had two choices, either have it be crooked on there and damage my spacers or take a die grinder with a carbide burr and modify it. I chose not to because obviously that would prevent me from returning it if any other issues arose down the line.Just to see if it will even work I went and got some nuts to use as spacers and avoid the out of round bore issue. It didn't mount too stable but at least it allowed me to try it. What I found is that the thread on the length adjustment often gets seized up and looks like it's too coarse and undersized. Sometimes you really have to fight it to get it to loosen up. It's definitely not hardened and looks like the cheapest zinc plated bolts you can find at local hardware stores so I'm not sure how long it would last with moderate usage.Overall this is a $ 50 tool at best and I feel ripped off having spent $ 160 on it.If I have to start modifying it and weld on it down the line to fix it then I may as well just fabricate my own with my TIG welder.

It does the job. I bought this for two reasons... (1) I like to learn and do modifications myself to my car, and (2) the cost of this tool is the same or more of what it costs to have someone do the same service. I was able to properly roll two quarter panels on my car with the help of a heat gun. The learning curve for this setup is short. You can easily watch videos online on how to use it. Only impatiences would yield a bad result.My one and ONLY issue with it was the packaging. It had Styrofoam that falls apart when you try to unpack it. It's kind of odd for them to pack it so tightly with Styrofoam. Lighter packing would suffice. You couldn't dent these parts if you hit them with a hammer. It almost seems like it is packaged so that it doesn't breach the shipping box, and damage other packages.

Works great but I needed to run a tap through one of the treads to clean out some weld spatter from manufacturing.

This is not a universal tool! As i am a welder/fabricator instead of sending it back i decided to "re-tool" it. Had to cut it apart (thankfully the welds were crap and this was easy to achieve!) and weld on a new plate that fit my hub and bolt pattern. The bolt that keeps the roller tight kept coming loose during the process. Did it do the job? Yes. Did it do it efficiently, like advertised? NOT EVEN CLOSE!! Not to thrilled.