PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit (RFB) - Ream/Deburr/Trim - 12mm ID x 16mm OD

If you're working on a water-cooled PC build and you're not using the PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit, you're missing out big time. This tool is an absolute game-changer for anyone dealing with hardline tubing. Chamfering the tubes, which is crucial for a perfect fit and finish, literally takes just 2 seconds with this bit. It's incredibly efficient and takes away so much of the hassle typically associated with preparing tubing for a water-cooling system. The ease and speed at which it works are just phenomenal. It turns what used to be a tedious part of the build process into something quick and enjoyable. The quality of the finish it provides is equally impressive. It leaves the edges of the tubes smooth and perfectly angled for insertion into fittings, reducing the risk of leaks and ensuring a clean, professional look for your setup. I can't emphasize enough how much of a beast this tool is. It's well-built, durable, and perfectly designed for its purpose. Using it has made my water-cooling setup process much more straightforward and enjoyable. In conclusion, the PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit is an essential tool for any DIY PC builder venturing into custom water-cooling. It saves time, effort, and ensures a high-quality finish to your tubing work. Don't do a water-cooled build without it – it's that good and absolutely worth the investment.

Do not use it on max speeds.. it works best at low RPM's

I've been doing the whole custom watercooling thing for years now. I've got a ton of tool sets for it, from spare fittings to bend guides and everything in between. This is perhaps the most useful item I've acquired in my time working with rigid tubing. Goodbye uselesss reamer, hello drill-powered chamfer bit. It really works well. Zero o-ring damage to any fittings after using this. And it goes FAST. I used to take minutes with a hand reamer to make sure the inside and outside were smooth, then hit it perpendicularly with sandpaper to kill the v-shape. No more. You hit it with this on a drill and you're done in 5 seconds. Perhaps the most useful thing though, it cuts out a LOT of measuring time. I've used a lot of different cutting methods to cut tubing down to size... my current favorite is one used for copper tubing. Works great for everything but detail work. Thankfully, with this bit I can do fine adjustments. If the straight run is a mil or two off, I can hit it with this for a second or two and not worry about cutting too much off. I found during my latest build that I had a lot less tubing waste because I never accidentally trimmed off too much due to my tools not being able so take off thin slices of tubing. It makes a bit of a mess but I can't imagine doing another build without it.

Let me start of by saying this was my first hardline water cooling build. Initially I bought the Thermaltake Pacific DIY OD 16mm Tube Bending Kit thinking it would have everything I needed. For a first time builder I consistently cracked my acrylic tubes when using the pipe cutter from the kit. I then started googling better ways, found most people use a bow saw or a hack saw, long story short I used a dremel since I had one. The bur tool they had, while good was hard for me to keep level/flat so my smoothing was often awkward. Thus again more googling! I can't remember how, but I came across a video of a guy using this tool and thought, sweet! Let's give that a try. Sure enough, it worked WONDERS! Not only was I able to smooth out the ends of my cuts with ease, it also had the power to drill down the size of my tube if I was a little bit off. For me that was a HUGE time saver. I haven't yet finished my build as I'm still waiting on some parts (newbie me) but here is a photo of what my rig looks like so far.

Like many things associated with custom water cooling, Over-priced for what it is. The good The bit works well and is great for shaving off small amounts of tubing so you don’t have to attempt small cuts to get the correct length. It cleans up the edges very nicely and quickly. The not so good It takes practice. Since you are using a hand drill, you need to make sure that you are flush or the edge will be uneven. The edge is not as rounded as it should be, making insertion into fittings a bit tough. I ended up using this bit to do the initial clean up and sizing, then used a hand deburring tool to give the edges a better rounded edge. I do like the tool. More for sizing than final prep, but I do like it, especially for fine tuning length.

I picked up one of these for my first PETG loop build, which used Thermaltake V-Tubler lines. I also got the Thermaltake mandrel kit, which comes with its own combination reamer tool, but the hand reamer has a tendency to chatter and skip on the ends of the lines, and therefore doesn't give a very clean finish for the amount of effort involved to get any sort of passable result. Enter the PrimoChill bit. I found out the hard way that you want to use this with an adjustable speed drill. When I started my build, all of my rechargeable packs for my cordless drill had died, so I had to revert to a cheap single-speed corded drill that I had lying around. Unfortunately, the single-speed spun way too fast to get a decent result. It would end up melting the ends instead of cutting them, and sent PETG shavings all over the place -- including into the cut ends, where it would melt and stick back onto them if I wasn't careful. Nothing that the hand reamer and an Xacto couldn't clean up, but it was counterproductive overall. Once I was able to switch over to my variable-speed cordless drill, I started getting infinitely better results. The trick is to start out extremely slowly. Hold the tube as steady as you can, and if you are able to rotate it slowly while chamfering, it does help even out the cut. If your hardline fittings are deep enough, the ends don't have to be completely even, but you do want to make sure that the outside edges are nice and smooth so you don't chew up the inner o-rings in those fittings. Start off slowly with the drill, and then use a few short bursts of full speed (no more than a second or so), and then finish out on low/medium speed. Repeat if you need to shorten the end by a few millimeters. A few turns against the bit while the drill is off can also help trim off any remaining flash. All in all, great product; it probably saved me from a repetitive stress injury.

It was my first time building a custom watercooling loop for my PC. I did not even like using distro-plates because in my opinion, they are not the classiest. So, that makes the build harder because there will be more bends to make (not much parallels when compared to using distro-plate). With that being said, this product is very effective. With the amount of tubes I had to bend, there were a lot of times where I would leave decent amount of extra tube so I can simply cut more if needed. I would test the length of my tube every so often, meaning I used to product over and over to make sure my O-rings do not get cut. I can imagine if I used a normal deburr tool, I would have had such a hard time. Using this tool would cut the amount of time to deburr to 5-10 seconds (not even when you get used to it). So, that gave me a very nice advantage of actually testing if my tubes were good to go or not, rather than wasting a lot of time deburring because I wanted to save a little more cash. Trust me, this is a tool that's worth the investment!! My only tip when using it is not to push against the tube too hard while using it. At least in my experience, it lead my tubes to become uneven. Going at it with just the right amount of force would result in a very clean/smooth ends of the tubes. Do not sweat if you used it for the first time and it feels weird, just trust the process and you will get used to it in no time!

This has to be, hands down, the coolest product in Primochill's catalog. I really wish I'd known about these years ago, if they were available. I had been using, like so many rigid tubing water cooling builders, the regular old deburring tool with two ends, one to scrape the inside, one to scrape the outside. This never resulted in a clean cut. This would make the tubes hard to insert into fittings, or even damage the o-rings in them. This thing, assuming you get the right size, makes a perfectly rounded edge on the end of the tubing. It can be somewhat challenging to ensure your tube and drill are perfectly square, but with practice you can get very good with it, and even at its worse its 100x better than the alternative. One of the BEST parts about it though is when fine tuning the length of the tubing after it's been bent and cut. Is it too long? Use this tool to scrub some length off and test fit. Time will tell how durable the edge of the tool is, especially when using it to shorten the tubing in the fine tuning fitment stage, since that requires a lot more cutting from the bit... but I'm very glad I found and splurged on the cost of this tool. My tubes insert into my fittings without any issues, and tuning lengths has become an absolute breeze. When coupled with the right size bending dies, the kind you screw down to your workbench, and using a tubing cutter like you'd use for brake lines or AC lines or whatever, I have a much better time making square cut ends and bending to the exact angles I need, and then finish it all off with this tool. If you do rigid tubing water cooling builds, YOU MUST HAVE THIS TOOL!!!

The use of an electric drill should be considered when using this product for best results. the drill should be set on a slow speed setting. using this method allows the user to shave/ shorten the tube in small increments. Using this tool sets up the correct chamfers on both the inner and outer faces of the tubing at the same time! Care needs to be taken when using this tool for best results

外径14x内径10のアクリルパイプの断面加工の為に購入しました。 届いた商品は確かに外径14mm 内径10mmと印刷されたラベルが貼っていますが、袋の中の箱にはサイズがインチで表示されており外径も内径も太くてベアリングがパイプ内に入りません。とても期待していたのに全く使えず残念です。

This tool is expensive. However, it works perfectly and saves a lot of time. Not only does it make the inside and outside edges of the tube perfectly smooth, but you can use it to remove a few millimetres from any tube that is slightly too long. Glad I bought it.

This tool is brilliant made my job so easy and clean.

le roulement de guidage qui pénètre à l'intérieur du tube et à la mauvaise cote il devrait être légèrement en dessous de 12 mm et il est en dessous de 11 mm cela implique qu'il ne fait plus guidage. Cet outil est à un prix exorbitant est vendu pour une dimension de 12 mm intérieur au prix payé le fabricant pourrait fournir les différents diamètre de roulement.