AISIN GENUINE TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Acura MDX, RDX, RL, RLX, TL, TLX, TSX, ZDX Honda Accord, Crosstour, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline Saturn Vue

My Odyssey is old. It's a 2008 with 149K on it. It had 110k when I bought it, thinking that I'd drive it for a couple years and then get something better. Well, things have changed. I can't even find anyone selling the new car that I want, and a three-year old one with 50k miles costs about as much as the MSRP for a new one. Soooooooo, the old Odyssey is going to be here a while. I;ve grown fond of it - it makes a pretty fair truck. If I pull the seats out, I can stack a crapload of 4x8 sheet goods in the back. We've got to get cracking on the maintence if this pony's going to stay in our stable. YouTube is a big help. Lots of folks post helpful videos showing exactly how to do this medium-difficult job. I checked Amazon for the parts, and found them selling this kit as a Warehouse Deal for $50 off, putting this original-equipment kit in the same financial neighborhood as the ones stamped from pot metal in some basement in South Shanghai. WooHoo! It said that the packaging would be damaged (it was) but everything inside was pristine. The most difficult part of this job is removing the crankshaft bolt. It is installed at the factory with a special nuclear-powered torquing device, powered by the energy of a thousand suns. You will break things trying to get it off. You may get hurt. You will certainly use words that you would never use in front of your kids, or even your wife, as you pull the shattered chunk of snapped 1/2" impact extension from your bleeding forearm as the bolt just sits on the pulley, mocking your puny efforts. Many people say that this task should be attempted first, as if you can't remove this bolt, it's best to just send the parts back and get the credit card ready for a $2K bill from your friendly mechanic, who will heat that bolt with a torch to get it loose, not caring that the rubber insert in the crank pulley will be forever damaged by the heat. It's not HIS car, after all. There is a solution. A lump of metal, dropped to the Earth from the gods - a solution so simple that you can't believe that it would work. It is the Lisle 77080. A half-inch drive 19mm impact socket. What, you say? It can't be that simple? You already HAVE a 1/2 drive 19mm? No. You don't have THIS socket. It's easily 3x as thick as your puny Harbor Freight socket and weighs 3x as much. The idea is that all that extra mass transmits more of the bang-bang from your impact tool into the bolt, and less into the atmosphere. My experience.... I sprayed PB Blaster (there's nothing better) at the crank bolt's surface, waited while I ate breakfast with the missus, and then went out there and put my 120v plug-in Porter Cable 1/2" impact on the bolt in unspin mode. Sixty seconds of nerve-wracking, arm shaking, anvil banging attempts proved fruitless, and since I was starting to smell weird electrical smells from the tool, I decided to give the bolt a break, spraying it again liberally with liquid slipperyness and going back inside for a second cup of coffee (recommended for occasional mechanics). Half an hour later, back for Round 2. Put the tool on the bolt, hit the trigger on the hand-held bolt hammer and the bolt didn't last five seconds. At this point, I was committed to the job. Everything came off easily, just like in the video. I used an M12-powered Milwaukee battery ratchet to save time, and it saved a bunch of it. Thinking about all that ratchet-spinning and knuckle-busting that I was missing made me smile. As it turned out, the old timing belt was oil soaked due to an old serious oil leak from the cylinder-disabling solenoid at the left-front of the engine, something I replaced the week I bought the Odyssey. Other than that, it looked pretty good for almost 150K miles. The old water pump looked good as well. The pump in this kit was a perfect match for the original one that I removed. There are some substandard parts out there, but this certainly isn't one of them. It went on like it was supposed to and so did everything else. All the parts in this kit seemed to be quality items - especially the tensioner. It was indistinguishable from the one that I removed - it was just cleaner. The idlers, likewise. Nice stuff that matched the original parts in performance and appearance. Be aware that the camshaft sprockets are fighting against some valve springs and will be waiting for the first chance they can get to move a bit while you aren't looking. Check your marks. Check your marks. Check your marks. I had everything where it was supposed to be and was about to pull the pin from the tensioner when I dedided to check just one more time..... Yup, I was one tooth off on the rear cam. Easy enough to fix at that point. More difficult if I had pulled the pin..... Rotate the engine a couple of times after (clockwise, unless you want to take the belt off and time the engine again). Check your timing marks a few times until you are certain that it's right. If you removed the spark plugs, the engine's easy to rotate. The maintenance interval for the plugs is the same as the timing belt, so make your life easy and do that at the same time. Once you're satisfied that the belt is installed properly, it's just a matter of bolting on all the bits that you removed to get to the belt, adding coolant and cleaning up. Drop your clothes on the laundry-room floor, go take a shower and make yerself a drink. You've earned it. If you did everything right, your engine will run exactly the same as it did before you started, which will be difficult to explain to your wife.

I’m happy to see that this brand has kept the quality control consistent without jacking up prices. Fits perfectly and even comes with the instructions for your specific vehicle installation. This is my second time purchasing this, truck has 205k miles and confident that this parts will last at least another 100k miles easily. 2k miles and hasn’t leaked nor makes unusual noises, happy customer here.

2017 Acura MDX. every part fit exactly like OEM. High quality components. This kit came with step by step instructions that included torque specs. Saved me time having to look them up. I will definitely be using this brand for my other Acura vehicles. As a bonus the kit arrived 3 days earlier than expected and i was able to get the project done this weekend instead of next.

The package came and its superb it restored my 8Th Gen V6 Accord’s Performance and smoothness and better fuel economy. This kit is perfect and good for the price as this kit is way more expensive here in PH priced 3 times, better to buy it here to this shop and have your kit installed by your trusted mechanic. No leaks no unusual noise, parts are exactly whats in the orignal honda parts, so will be replacing it again after 5 to 7 years or another 100k km.

This is the best timing belt kit you can buy with all original OEM parts with the same brands used on the manufacturing line. I've used a number of them and they go in perfect. As the 3rd gen TLs and Accords (2004-2008) come with an interference fit engine, it's a $4K - $6K plus mistake if you get sub standard parts, something breaks, and you total the engine. Timing belt time in the Accord and TL is 7 years or 105k miles whichever comes first and it's called the 105k service. The 105K service is supposed to include: 1 - Timing Belt Kit w Water Pump, this is the only one I 've ever found with the OEM level water pump including the Oring tabs (see video) (this product) 1 - Drive Belt Goodyear 4060840 Gatorback Poly-V Belts 1 - Thermostat, I got a fail safe that locks open if it breaks so I don't have any chance of overheating the aluminum block Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat 1 - Thermostat gasket Fel-Pro 35162 Thermostat O Ring 2 - Honda Type 2 Gallon Coolant, flush not neccessary Genuine Honda Parts OL999-9011 Blue Type 2 Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle 3 - Honda DW1 ATF Fluid Quart Genuine Honda Fluid 08200-9008 ATF-DW1 Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart 6 - NGK 6994 Iridium Spark Plug, Factory OEM NGK (6994) Laser Iridium Spark Plug 1 - Engine air filter Fram CA9600 Extra Guard Rigid Panel Air Filter 1 - Cabin Air Filter, I got an activated Carbon and Baking Soda Filter and it really makes a difference FRAM CF10134 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter There is an incredible walkthrough at Acurazine.com in the TL section, google "acurazine.com 784622" and you get an article named "A122: DIY 105k service" with complete walkthrough and all photos.... it's an incredible piece of work, major thank you to the guy who did it. He used a Gates kit, which saves about $60, but I prefer the fully OEM Aisin kit here as the Gates kit has a reported 11% water pump failure rate (!!!!) which is a huge number considering how hard it is to get to. Also, the Aisin pump has the oring retention tabs I mention in the video which is a huge convenience / peace of mind thing. There is definitely no better kit than this one that I have ever seen or heard of. note: This is NOT an easy job, you can slip a little and break the throttle position sensor, slip in another place and get the belt off position by one tooth, slip on the water pump and end up with a leak... it's in a tight spot and you have to suspend the car on stands... you have to get a couple special tools.... I know a guy who was trying to do it on ramps and dropped the car on himself with nobody there and ended up waiting for 2 hours until I showed up... he is a particularly big and tough MF so he survived it with one cracked rib which was amazing If you aren't sure you can do it, buy the kit and pay a local foreign car specialist to do it... most will do it for $300-400... and not just some guy who does it on the side because if he screws it up, a new engine will be at least 3000 done right and he won't help you out.... get a shop that stands behind their work for the extra $100.... you are still out a couple hundred dollars ahead of the dealer and you are sure the honda or acura dealer didn't skimp on the parts and believe me, they do that all the time... some of them will charge you for the water pump and not bother to change it as they rarely fail and the odds are that you will get outside of the warranty period without it happening and they pocket about $200 extra parts and labor.

Everything you need. Consider replacing cam and crank seals.

Executive Summary: If you're going to invest the time to disassemble all the parts needed to get to the timing belt it only seems sensible to replace all the stuff included in this kit. And the kit parts seem fine to me. I'm not a mechanic .... so my opinion isn't worth much. But I decided I could save >$1,000 by replacing the timing belt myself on my 2005 Honda Pilot with 132,000 miles. Yeah, I stretched the replacement cycle a bit. I'm writing this from a rented condo in Florida. We just drove 1,700 miles to get here so I guess I can say the job worked out .... so far at least. THANK GOD for YouTube. I would never have tried to do the job but for the really good videos there. I watched 3 different ones carefully and then made a flow chart of the order of operations; the job broke down into about 50 steps for me. And it was a good investment of time for an amateur. The space is quite tight and you have to reassemble in a specifc order or you can't fit the parts back into place. The parts in the kit seem fine .... but I have no real experience .... so how can I compare and judge? I can say that it makes sense to me to get the kit and replace all the stuff provided. It seems foolish to not replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner etc. once you've made the substantial investment of getting it all apart. My old tensioner was leaking a bit of oil; it might have gone another 100,000 miles .... but maybe not? A couple of things: You have to get the crank bolt free before you can proceed at all with the job. I broke 2 extension bars on mine; it would NOT break free. So I took the vehicle down to my local mechanic (that I trust) and he broke it free with his air impact driver that has 700 ft/lb of force .... and he really had to work at it too! We get lots of salt on our roads in the winter and after 12 years mine was welded on. I could never have broken it free with my amateur tool set. He charged me $42 .... a huge bargain and lesson that sometimes there is no substitute for the "big boy tools". A couple of the bolt heads on the timing covers were rusted so badly I was worried I wouldn't get them off. I had to gently tap a 3/8" socket onto the rusty .... and now smaller bolt hex .... to get enough grip to break them free. Then I was gouged for a couple of new ones at $6 each from the Honda Dealer to reassemble. The job calls for a bunch of the fasteners to be torqued to 9 f/lb and I couldn't find a torque wrench that I was satisfied with for that range. Most seem to be made for 10 - 50 and I needed 5 to 50 because you want to avoid using the 10% of the tool's range at either end of its capability. I've read they just aren't very accurate at the edge of their range. I ended up testing the feel of 10 ft/lb on a nut in my bench vise and then did the job by hand feel ... sort of ridiculous but it seems to have worked so far. Anyway .... summary .... the kit materials seem fine and it makes sense to me to do the whole kit job.

Can’t speak for longevity yet, but kit worked perfect on my 2014 honda accord with the 3.5 v6 Do yourself a favor and mark your belt along with the timing marks took some fighting to get the slack off the top of the belt and get it down to the tensioner, but once all marks were lined up everything went well and car goes good!